Devan’s Dozen: (Pork) Ribs Edition
A NOTE FROM THE WRITER: disKCovery has declared this year to be “The Year of the Pit”. This is the latest installment of a wide selection of articles, essays, and rankings devoted to a year-long deep dive into Kansas City barbeque. To see the rest of the 2Q23 series, click HERE.
The Revered Racks of Ridiculously Remarkable Ribs in this River City
Published July 21, 2023
James Beard (yes, THAT James Beard) famously quipped that, “If I had to narrow my choice of meats down to one for the rest of my life, I am quite certain that meat would be pork.” If I could borrow that sentiment and take it a step further, I would admit that if I had to narrow my choice of barbeque down to one smoked meat, it would likely be a pork rib.
The trouble that then ensues is that ribs have such a wide, and potentially, volatile range. In Kansas City’s celebrated barbeque scene alone, our restaurants serve ribs ranging from magnificently divine to acceptable to even a few examples that are unfit for consumption. Earlier this year, I confessed my own snobbery when it comes to pork ribs. As a Kansas Citian who spent my youth raising Berkshires and Durocs, it was bound to happen.
There are few foods in the world that I enjoy more than a well-smoked rack of pork ribs and for that reason there is not a single food that I hold to a higher standard. As I once wrote, “a good rib satisfies a craving, but a great rib? That can satiate the soul.” So I would never dare narrow down all smoked meats to any old pork rib. Only the best will do.
The problem with ribs is that achieving greatness is not nearly as simple as it sounds. A great rack of ribs are the height of luxury when it comes to barbeque; truly a diamond in the rough. Following that train of thought, it seems that diamonds may actually possess the answer to explaining what makes for a great rib.
In the world of diamonds, the “Four C’s” (Color, Cut, Clarity, and Carats) represent the universal method for assessing the quality of a gemstone. In considering ribs to be similarly luxurious in their own right, it seems that my own set of “Four C’s”, as they pertain to pork ribs, may be the best tool in helping others discern between a superb rib and one that is sadly subpar.
Devan’s Four C’s For Determining Pork Rib Quality
CUT: While pork ribs, mostly, come from a hog’s rib cage, they can be trimmed and presented in a number of ways. This C obviously refers to the cut of meat. It is as much about the portion of the rib that a slab originates from as it is about the manner in which those ribs may, or may not be, trimmed. When it comes to pork ribs, there are four widely agreed upon cuts or styles. THIS GRAPHIC actually illustrates them about as simply as one can ask. However, let’s take a deeper dive into these styles.
Babyback Ribs: Babyback ribs are likely the most popular cut of rib in the United States. They are so popular that they have their own well-known tune! (You’re singing it now, aren’t you? You’re welcome!) Despite the moniker, these are not ribs that come from piglets or small pigs. The cut is a reference to the relatively diminuitive length of the bones because they are cut from the upper loin where the rib cage attaches to the spine. This is what gives them their shortness and curvature. Many consumers do consider the babyback to be a meatier rib due to their thickness and being significantly leaner than other cuts.
Kansas City Ribs OR Spareribs: While there are those who choose to make a delineation between spareribs and Kansas City style ribs, the trimming to create a Kansas City slab is so minimal that they are practically one in the same. However, it does remain that this cut and the next one on the list are both very specific trims of sparerib. A sparerib is cut from further down the rib cage of a pig, near the belly. They are longer and flatter than a babyback. They also have more meat than the babyback but being very well marbled, they also contain more fat. All of these factors contribute to a longer cook time. What marks a Kansas City sparerib is that it is essentially a full cut of the spareribs. The cartilage, known as the rib tips, remains attached. For lack of a better term, the Kansas City is an uncircumcised sparerib. In terms of preparation, this cut presents the most challenges and is the hardest to perfect. This will be discussed again soon.
St. Louis Ribs: Far too often, people make the mistake of thinking that the St. Louis rib is an indicator of barbeque prowess or that it’s a particular cooking style. Even those from the Lou like to hang their hats on it being a sign of barbeque dominance. While St. Louis is a perfectly fine barbeque city in its own right, the record must be set straight. The St. Louis rib is nothing more than a cut of meat, much like a New York or Kansas City strip. Around the 1930s, meatpackers in St. Louis began trimming the rib tip and gristle off of spareribs to create a cleaner, more rectangular, and well-balanced rib. If we were to put this in fashion terms, the Kansas City rib is a polo shirt and the St. Louis is a Henley. It’s the same rib, St. Louis just doesn’t have the collar. However, that one seemingly small change makes a world of difference. Admittedly, this cut is my preference in ribs. Early St. Louis butchers deserve all the credit in the world for achieving excellence in rib cutting. In recent years, this cut has become much more widespread as it is the most common rib on the competition circuit. A few factors that contribute to this are the ability to achieve consistency across the rib and that the boxier shape makes for a much better visual presentation.
Country Style Ribs: While country style ribs must be discussed, the truth is that these “ribs” are not ribs at all. The are taken from the section of the hog between the shoulder and the babyback ribs. Essentially, these are nothing more than a chunk of loin meat attached to a shoulder or back bone. They can be quite delicious but they are not ribs. On rare occassion, a BBQ joint may utilize this cut for riblets or rib burnt ends. And yet, considering that I cannot specifically name a Kansas City barbeque joint that regularly serves these faux ribs, all discussion of them can end here.
COLOR: Once again, this term likely means exactly what you think it does. Color is the end-all, be-all of determining a slab’s quality but you can learn a lot about ribs from their exterior and interior color. If nothing else, the color can be an indicator of how dry or wet a slab is.
External: Truth be told, the external color of a slab of ribs can mean a lot of things and be a lot of things. It is nice for a slab to be pleasing to the eye but there is no hard or fast rule on what the external color of a slab should be! In my experience, the best ribs tend to exist on a spectrum that ranges from golden brown to mahogany and touches on every shade of orange, red, and brown in between. Great ribs can exist outside this range, they just rarely do. Most of what an exterior color indicates is the manner in which the slab was prepared. Were the ribs coated with a dry rub, glaze, and / or a barbeque sauce? Were these ribs finished on a grill, in a broiler, or straight from the smoker? The look and color of a slab can give an indication to both of these things. So mostly it comes down to what the individual diner prefers in a rib that determines the colors they look for. As a rule of thumb, the one color to be wary of is gray. Nine times out of ten, gray means stay the heck away.
Internal Color: In terms of anticipating or judging quality, the internal shade is far more important. A perfectly smoked rib will likely have a color that can best be compared to rose quartz. Any rib meat that ranges in color from pink to white is likely to be a winner. The absolute best ribs are like a sunset. They smoothly transition from a deep red smoke ring to a dusty rose then bring in a little bit of taupe before arriving at a brilliant white center. A deep pink, red, or a tan color can be a real roll of the dice but is more often than not on the acceptable side of things. As a buyer beware, never mess around with dark brown and, once again, stay away from gray.
CHARACTER: Character speaks to the flavor, quality, and distinctive characteristics of the meat. In many ways, personal preference does play a large role in determining the character of a rib. Depending on the spices or sauces used; elite ribs can be tangy, spicy, smoky, savory, sweet, rich, zesty, robust, buttery, or even a bit ashy. They can be one of these or multiple. What ribs should never be is stale, earthy, acidic, sour, or bitter. What character really boils down to is balance of flavors and meat quality. Some things to consider include:
What flavors are present in the rib?
How do the flavors work with one another? Do they play nicely, clash in a pleasant manner, or deliberately work against each other in a way that is displeasing?
Most importantly - where does the rib’s primary flavor originate from?
This final question speaks to the balance of the rib and the way flavors work together in general. If one dominant flavor does stand out, what is creating that flavor? Is it the pork? Or the smoke? Both of these answers are acceptable. If your answer is “the sauce” or “the rub” there may be cause for concern. Oftentimes, lesser smokers attempt to, for lack of a better term, slap lipstick on a pig. They utilize copious amounts of spices, rub, or most often sauce in order to mask a deficient or poorly prepared cut of meat. One thing that the very best ribs all share is that the flavor of the pork itself does shine through. The flavor is not only of a high quality but it works well with any other flavor sources present. Rubs and sauces exist only to enhance the flavor of the pork and the smoke in a great rib. They should not be used to replace or hide them.
CONSISTENCY: It would be easy to expect that consistency is a reflection of maintaining consistent quality from one slab to the next, and one restaurant location to the next. That is important and that form of consistency is how reputations are made. In this case however, we are talking about the actual consistency and mouthfeel of the rib. If you wondered why texture did not come up under character, it is because it gets its own C here. Elite pork ribs come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and cuts. They can be served naked, dry, rubbed, spiced, sauced, or glazed. What every single great rib does share in common is that it adheres to an acceptable range of textures. As the most important of the C’s, thoroughness on this subject is key.
The Myth of the “Fall-off-the-Bone Rib”: Before any proper discussion on rib texture can be had, this myth must be squashed. In all of culinary lore, there is nothing more cliché than the “fall-off-the-bone” rib. Never has such a grossly overcooked piece of food been so widely celebrated. Please understand that absolutely anyone can overcook a rib and make it fall off the bone. There is no craft there. Pitmasters are so named because understanding the precise point to remove any meat, especially a rack of ribs, from a smoker takes a level of mastery. It takes patience and understanding. They’re named pitmasters but more than anything, they are masters of time. Timing is arguably the single most important part of the smoking process. It determines a rib’s greatness more than anything else. Now, if a cut of meat is so tough or of such poor quality that it has to be overcooked in order to edible? if a rack of ribs is being desecrated for the purpose of being served on a sandwich or as a topper or mix-in? By all means, let that rib fall off the bone! However, if the goal is to serve a rack of ribs? Then that meat better stay on the rack.
The Handshake Rule: The easiest way to think about what the desired texture of a rack of ribs should be is to think about what makes for a great handshake. A great handshake is well-balanced. It’s firm, but comfortable. It’s straightforward and gets to the point, but it is also reassuring and elicits confidence. Nearly everyone would agree that three things a handshake should never be are slimy, limp, or wet. Still a handshake can definitely be too dry as well. Ribs should never be these things either. Internally, we all have an internal scale of what we think a handshake should be and there is an acceptable range of firmness or softness where a handshake should fall. Nobody wants their hand crushed or wants to be left holding a dead fish. Like a great handshake, the best ribs just feel right.
Be Like Goldilocks: We all remember the story of Goldilocks and the Three Bears. Whether it was porridge or her choice of bed for a nap, it was imperative to Goldilocks that she find the one that was “just right”. Passable or “good enough” should be an option here. So what does just right look like? Great ribs strike a balance of texture. They are firm enough to cling to the bone but soft enough to effortlessly fall of it with nothing more than a gentle tug of the teeth. They have a nice outer bark that seals in the juices. There’s some moisture there but enough to make it slightly damp, not anywhere near wet. Barks vary in texture but always work in concert with the meat and are a seamless part of the bite. Just like the first bite of an onion ring should never result in a hollow shell, biting through the bark should not cause a rib to fall completely apart. The bark should never be a chewy struggle that prevents one from enjoying the meat. It should never be a distraction from the rest of the rib. A great rib does have some chew to it but it is better described as spongy. The process of chewing should not be so continual that a bite lingers. There is a slight denseness to the meat but it is still tender enough to melt in your mouth and vacate the cavity in a reasonable amount of time. Only when this level of balance is achieved can a rib be “just right”.
Consistency Across the Slab: Once you find the perfect texture, is that consistency consistently present across the bone? What about the entire slab? Earlier, the challenges of preparing a Kansas City rack were briefly mentioned. This has to do with the fact that cartilage-filled rib tips have very different needs than the lower spare portion that makes up a St. Louis slab. Due to the gristle, the rib tips take much longer to cook and may even require a higher heat in order for them to be enjoyable. The tips must flirt dangerously close with “fall-off-the-bone” quality. It is undesirable in a rib but a must for the tips. As can be expected, in achieving a perfect, and edible, rib tip, the lower spare is often overcooked and ruined. With St. Louis ribs and babyback ribs, the pressure to achieve multiple desired textures is somewhat alleviated. This is why so many barbeque joints serve the ribs and tips separately, or they do not serve the tips at all! These other two cuts offer the ability to focus on just the rib, and to ignore the tips. Having textures appropriate to the portion of the slab from the rib tip to the lower spare is something to be appreciated. Maintaining that quality and perfect texture from the long end to the short end is equally important. The ability to consistently produce an ideal consistency across the entirety of a slab time and time again is the difference between someone who just makes ribs and a true artist.
As you can begin to imagine, balance the Four C’s to create rib perfection takes a level of mastery, patience, and skill. Achieving the ideal texture whilst balancing that with the cut, wood, seasoning blend, sauce, and flavor necessary to produce a great rib is far from easy. Fortunately, here in the World Capital of Barbeque there are a number of pitmasters and BBQ joints that do it very well. Every single day these savants manage to pull off hundreds of perfect slabs while relatively few are capable of doing this with one.
While there are several examples of great ribs across Kansas City, these are the twelve local restaurants that do it better than anyone.
Not only does Louisburg BBQ serve up some of the best ribs in the metro, they’re also some of the largest. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
12. Louisburg BBQ & Brews
2 W. Amity Street, Louisburg, Kansas
STYLE / CUT: Kansas City
I cannot tell you the first time that I ever bit into a pork rib but I can tell you my earliest memory of ribs. It was watching that enormous side of brontosaurus topple Fred’s car at the drive-in in the closing credits of The Flintstones. The first time I had the ribs at Louisburg BBQ & Brews, I immediately noticed their car-toppling potential. These things are enormous! Beyond the mass, the quality and consistency is undeniable. The dry rub has a rustic flavor and gives each slab a beautiful umber bark. The transition from orchid outer edges to a tender, meaty white center is impeccable. Most impressive is the texture throughout each rib. As mentioned, the biggest challenge of a Kansas City cut rib is that the rib tip and the rest of the bone have different textural needs. Louisburg BBQ manages to properly break down the tip without overcooking the rest of the rib. Even with the obstacles presented by such a hefty bone, they nail the proper consistency at every single segment of thee rib. There are artists that can properly prepare a Kansas City cut rib but nobody else is doing it with quality ribs of this size. The attention to detail and patience required is praiseworthy and the result is a sparerib about as a perfect as this cut can be.
It is hard to imagine a better way to enjoy the ribs at RJ’s than served with crinkle-cut sweet potato fries and some of the best cheesy corn in town. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
11. RJ’s Bob-Be-Que Shack
5835 Lamar Avenue, Mission, Kansas
STYLE / CUT: St. Louis
For those who know RJ’s Bob-Be-Que-Shack, there is nowhere else they’d rather go for barbeque. The family-owned joint has been a Mission staple for the past twenty years. Beyond a devoted local following, RJ’s has garnered the admiration of a number of Kansas City, regional, and national publications and personalities. One of the many things that keeps the customers returning are RJ’s ribs. Their Denver Cut Lamb Ribs might just be the finest cut of smoked mutton in the city. But, we’re here to talk about the swine variety! Their pork spareribs similarly meet that same standard as some of the best in town. The dry-rubbed ribs border somewhere between ebony and black cherry in color. In terms of what kind of “handshake” these ribs offer; they are definitely on the firmer end of the spectrum but still in the acceptable range. What make’s RJ’s ribs so special among other Kansas City slabs is their smokiness. The degree to which the hickory flavor features in each and every bite gives each bone an ember-filled richness that is both unique and unmatched. Since RJ’s offers breakfast on the weekends, this is also one of the few places in town to satisfy an early morning hankering for a slab.
Sure you can head to Leawood for a slab of these tasty ribs, or you can just grab some the next time you fly out of KCI! PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
10. Meat Mitch BBQ
3620 W. 95th Street, Leawood, Kansas
STYLE / CUT: St. Louis
Given the success of Char Bar, I cannot remember a barbeque joint’s opening in Kansas City being as widely anticipated as Meat Mitch BBQ was last year. With locations in both Leawood and the Kansas City International Airport, Meat Mitch has definitely lived up to the hype. Quickly, they have become known for expanding on their flagship WHOMP! sauce to boast one of the finest and most diverse sauce line-ups in the city. Among the many things that Meat Mitch does well, is produce one of the city’s best slabs. Each rack is glazed with the classic WHOMP! sauce which gives the ribs a wonderful flavor and their signature garnet hue. Additionally the bark has a toffee-like quality, which best I can tell is attributed to some honey in the glaze. It has a delightful chewiness. The pork has a marvelously memorable flavor profile. In terms of the “handshake scale”, the meat falls on the softer end of the acceptable range but still well within the parameters. As a result, each bite of pork simply melts on your tongue.
Everything about the ribs at FOX&FIRE screams Texas until you get a taste of the sweetness from that honey glaze. Then you know you’re in KC. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
9. FOX&FIRE Barbecue
102 W. Lawrence Street, Kearney, Missouri
STYLE / CUT: Kansas City
Should you find yourself in Kearney some weekend, don’t pass up the chance to try some of the best craft barbeque this city has to offer. Be sure to arrive early as, more often than not, the pork spareribs are the first meat at Fox & Fire to sell out. As mentioned prior, Kansas City cut ribs are typically a staple of this city’s more old school joints. The newcomers tend to stick to St. Louis style, or at least babyback. So it is unusual that Fox & Fire may be the only craft-style barbeque in the city featuring this cut. However, when you smoke racks as nice as the ones being turned out by the little orange trailer in Kearney, it makes sense to buck some trends. The texture of the meat is exemplary. The salt and pepper rub on the outside really allows the meat to speak for itself. It gives each bone a coarse, but pleasing texture. The smoke ring is so deep that the meat keeps its rosy color. While everything about these ribs scream Texas barbeque, the honey glaze gives the sangria-colored slabs a sweetness that is wholly Kansas City.
Generations of Kansas Citians have come to know how special Danny Edwards’ ribs really are. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
8. Danny Edwards BLVD BBQ
2900 Southwest Boulevard, Kansas City, Missouri
STYLE / CUT: Kansas City
What Danny Edwards’ offers is so much more than great barbeque. It is a flavor and quality that has been enjoyed by generations going back to the earliest age of barbeque restaurants in this city. While Danny, and his father Jake, are no longer with us, what they gave to this city lives on in every bite of smoked meat served at this Southwest Boulevard joint. The first time I had an Edwards’ rib, what stuck out to me was the spectrum of color on every slab. The gooey rib tips bear a deep umber while the lower spare is colored burnt orange by their classic rub. The meat on each bone is an idyllic shade of rose quartz and tender throughout. The variation of color is a testament to the balance of textures in this classic KC slab and an intentionality to prepare each part of the bone as intended. While these ribs can definitely be enjoyed dry, they are classically topped with a dollop of the smoky sweet sauce that Danny’s customers have loved for decades.
No longer do you have to make a trip to the Northland to get the amazing ribs at Scott’s Kitchen; they’re also available at select Royals’ games! PHOTO COURTESY OF - Scott’s Kitchen
7. Scott’s Kitchen and Catering at Hangar 29
11920 N. Ambassador Drive, Kansas City, Missouri
STYLE / CUT: St. Louis
On multiple occasions, the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) have placed the ribs from Scott’s Kitchen in the top ten at competitions. When it comes to the local BBQ joint scene, I clearly do not disagree. One of the best things that this Northland slab has going for it is the cut. When you think of what a St. Louis rib should look like it is exactly this. Time and time again Scott’s puts out a well-manicured slab that is unbelievably thick. While the cut is pure STL, these ribs are nothing but KC. A generous lacquering of Scott’s house sauce gives these ribs a dark cherry bark. The thick glaze gives each rib a wonderful candy-like quality and sweetness. The blend of hickory and assorted fruit woods makes itself known and work in concert with the sauce and meat. This is harmony on a bone! The deep red smoke ring is nice and thick and lets you know the kind of quality you can expect before you even take a bite. The consummate combination of sweet and meat can be nearly overwhelming. It is more than enough to leave any rib fan satisfied.
Ever since they started making barbeque, Woodyard has been known for their ribs. Both their Kansas City ribs (above) and babybacks have garnered praise from multiple national outlets. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
6. Woodyard Bar-B-Que
3001 Merriam Lane, Kansas City, Kansas
STYLE / CUT: Kansas City OR Babyback
There has always been a bluntness to Woodyard Bar-B-Que that lends to its overall charm. The name comes from their beginnings as a literal woodyard for smokers, a tradition that continues to this day. When you arrive at Woodyard, you don’t feel like you’re at a restaurant. You feel like you’re walking into a house; because you are. Everything about this KCK eatery seems to stand in contrast to other local BBQ joints. They are straightforward, unapologetic, and down-to-earth. Their widely celebrated slabs of ribs are no different. Nearly every pitmaster tends to agree that peeling off the silverskin (an inedible membrane of connective tissue that holds the ribs together) prior to smoking is a must. Woodyard chooses not to. The result is a moist and tender slab and a silverskin that you’re left to peel off the back yourself. The rub they use is robust and works well with the smoke. It gives every slab Woodyard’s signature mustard brown color. (Although I submit that mustard is also a part of the prep process) The pink strips of meat on every bone is on the softer end of the acceptable texture scale but because of this, each decadent bite of a Woodyard rib melts like butter in your mouth. Personally, I give the babybacks a slight edge over the Kansas City spares but either way, you’re getting a fantastic rack of ribs.
While the babyback ribs at Bryant’s are a treat in their own right, they are best enjoyed with one of Arthur’s iconic “President’s Choice” sauces. For me, the Rich & Spicy wins out with the ribs. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
5. Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque
1727 Brooklyn Avenue, Kansas City, Missouri
STYLE / CUT: Babyback OR St. Louis
The forebearer to Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque, Henry Perry, was considered the “Barbecue King”. Correspondingly, when Bryant made the business his own in the 1940’s, he quickly became known as the “King of Ribs”. In the forty years since Bryant’s passing, his restaurant has changed hands a few times but that legacy of top-notch ribs is alive and well on Brooklyn Avenue. In the fashion of a true king, Bryant’s excels at multiple cuts. Whether you fancy a slab of babybacks or spares, they put out a world-class version of each. In both cuts, the quality of the meat is evident as each slab has the perfect ratio of meat and fat. The coloration could not be more picture-perfect with a bark that borders between fuschia and black, a ruby red smoke ring, and a rosy color throughout the thick-cut ribs. Tender, but firm, each bite is just as soft as it should be, but not a hair softer. The rich flavor of the meat itself is almost overwhelming. It’s pure pork bliss! While it was sauce that put Bryant’s on the map, nowadays they let the meat do the talking. It’s left up to the consumer to sauce their meats as much or as little as they’d like but it would be a shame to pass on a chance to top these succulent slabs with one of three “President’s Choice” sauces.
Somehow, the babybacks at Porky’s taste even better than they look! And it’s hard to imagine a better-looking rib. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
4. Porky’s Blazin’ Bar-B-Q
9512 S. Buckner Tarsney Road, Grain Valley, Missouri
STYLE / CUT: Babyback
The first time that I was presented with a half slab at Porky’s Blazin’ Bar-B-Q, they immediately had my attention. Simply put, they are eye-catching! The bark is a brilliant mahogoany that is seemingly back-lit by a golden sheen. It’s perfectly crisp with a few well-placed breaks that lets you know how juicy they are before you ever take a bite. The deep rose smoke ring effortlessly transitions into glistening white meat. The thickness of the meat on the bone is remarkable. If Michelangelo were to paint a rib bone, I am not sure he could create a better sight than what Porky’s is already putting on a plate. As for the flavor? It’s so well balanced. The chewiness of the bark plays well with the tender and juicy meat and provides a truly special texture. The dry rub and notes of hickory and cherry smoke make themselves known. They also provide the right amount of back-up to the real star, the meat itself. The rich flavor of the pork put these ribs over the top. The way the flavor just explodes onto the tastebuds never ever gets old. It is difficult to imagine that there is a better babyback slab anywhere than the ones being served up every weekend just outside Grain Valley.
For over 50 years, Hayward’s has continued to put out some of the best ribs in the city. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
3. Hayward’s Pit Bar B Que
10901 W. 75th Street, Shawnee, Kansas
STYLE / CUT: St. Louis
For over half a century, Hayward’s has been synonymous with excellent ribs. Not only are they some of the best spareribs in the city, they are some of the most affordable. Every Thursday you can still find a full slab for $20! The hallmark of the Hayward’s rib has always been the soft charred jet-black bark that not only gives the rib its signature look. This is a prime example of there being no hard, fast rule for exterior color. That char is paramount to the ribs’ unmistakable and iconic flavor. The bark has such a gritty and robust flavor with just a subtle kick. Each slab has a sumptuous smokiness that your tastebuds, nostrils, and even your eyes, cannot escape! The candy apple red striation of every bone gives that secret away. At the end of the day, what makes a Hayward’s rib elite is that the meat confidently speaks for itself. Any diner would be well-advised to pull up a chair and listen to what these ribs have to say.
The only thing that has ever prevented me from ordering at least a few bones at SLAP’s is availability. Ribs are one of the first meats to sell out. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
2. Slap’s BBQ
553 Central Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
STYLE / CUT: St. Louis
Truth be told, it seems a little unfair to rank the ribs at Slap’s number two in the city. They would be number one anywhere else! After careful consideration, they definitely land in the silver medal spot on the podium but it feels more like a #1 and #1a situation because you can truly flip a coin between this and my gold medal slab. The difference between the top two is so minute. Tell me that either of my top two are the city’s best slab and you will hear no protest from me. The scarlet slabs with crisp burgundy edges are virtually flawless in every way. The rub is subtle and does just enough. The real star here is, what I can only guess, is brown sugar that gives each rib a maple-syrup like sweetness that serves to highlight the character of the meat. The marriage of sweet and meat is seamless. You cannot tell where one flavor ends and the other begins. These ribs are spectacular in their simplicity. The amalgam of textures makes these everything they need to be. With each bite, the flavor just envelopes every one of the senses. They are the perfect handshake - straightforward and firm but comfortable and reassuring. The coziness that resonates from each bite makes Slap’s ribs a comfort food in every sense of the term.
My first-ever slab of Kansas City ribs was from (Oklahoma) Joe’s. Who knew they’d be the only slab I’d ever need? PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
1. Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que
3002 W. 47th Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
STYLE / CUT: St. Louis
I vividly remember the very first time that I bit into a (then Oklahoma) Joe’s rib. I can tell you where I was, about the absolute downpour I had walked in to get there, and what I did later that night. The taste alone was enough to stop me in my tracks and force me to make a memory. That was not only the night that I came to understand exactly what a pork sparerib should be; it was on that night in 2008 that I fell in love with Kansas City barbeque. These ribs are the standard bearer by which all others are compared. Over the years, I have had hundreds of these ribs and never has a single bone disappointed. The consistency over time is unbelievable. Texturally, the meat is spongy, velvety, and dense; firm enough to have to be tugged off the bone but soft enough to immediately melt. With each rack, Joe’s composes a seamless symphony of savory, smoky, spicy, and sweet that is sinfully enchanting. All of this is packed under the well-known carmine veneer given to each slab by a coat of Joe’s signature sauce. As the great Anthony Bourdain once said about Joe’s, these ribs are “criminally good”. All I know is that when I dream of ribs, I dream of the ones at Joe’s. They are the best in the Kansas City and by extension, the very best to be had in this nation.
As you can see, great ribs truly do come in all shapes, sizes, colors, and cuts. They come in a variety of flavor profiles but the best ones take those flavors and balance them well, never allowing a sauce or rub to hide the character of the meat. While many of these things are left to personal preference, the one thing that all great ribs share in common is achieving an ideal mouthfeel. They strike the right balance of texture. And, what makes for a great texture is not dissimilar from what makes for a great handshake.
Hopefully, the next time you visit one of these fantastic local eateries, you will order some of the best ribs this city has to offer. Whether you opt for a few bones, half a slab, or go for the Full Monty, I can only hope that you will discover your own favorite rack. All I can ask is that regardless of if your favorite rib comes from one of these joints or elsewhere; once you have the privilege of pigging out on a great rib and once you are face-to-face with everything that a pork rib should be; you will commit to never, ever being a person that places the travesty that is the “fall-off-the-bone” rib on a pedestal.
C you later!
What’s your preferred style of ribs? Who in KC does it best? Did they make the cut?
Tell me about it in the comments!
