New Kid on the Block
A pop-up during the height of the pandemic, Chef J recently expanded their hours as they become a more permanent part of the West Bottoms and Kansas City BBQ landscape.
Published December 9, 2020
“Yo dude. Add this place to your list if you haven’t already been. Chef J BBQ. It’s really good.”
That’s the text I received six months ago from my friend Anthony that first put Kansas City’s newest kid on the barbeque block on my radar. Over the next few weeks, I received more messages and texts from friends and family all with the same facebook link hoping to make me aware of this new West Bottoms barbeque joint.
Apparently the word is out among those who know me that I love Kansas City BBQ.
Without giving it too much thought, I gave the page a “Like” and added it to my ever-growing list of places to try. It was not long before I was intrigued by Chef J and not long after that, my curiosity become genuine admiration from afar. As saturated as Kansas City’s barbeque scene is, it is noteworthy when a new player bursts on to the scene to the kind of fanfare that Chef J has had. It is even more special when you consider that this BBQ joint opened its doors during the midst of a pandemic at a time when fewer people than ever are dining out. For the past few months, I suspected there had to be something about this place.
Located on the ground floor of the “The Beast”, having signed the lease in March of 2020, Chef Justin Easterwood was forced to open his restaurant as a pandemic pop-up of sorts offering carryout and curbside delivery during the height of quarantine. In a time when we saw many great establishments go the way of the dinosaurs, Chef J slowly but surely built momentum and loyal following. Just recently, Chef J BBQ expanded their hours as they become the more permanent fixture in the West Bottoms they have always intended to be. The expanded hours provided me with an opportunity to drop by last Friday.
Even though it is located on the lowest floor of a haunted house, my first impression walking through the door was how inviting the space was. With the quick-serve counter directly in front of the main door, I quickly noticed the large menu board that hung above. Now when I first visit a barbeque joint, I am eager to sample as many meats and dishes as I possibly can. With six meats, six sides, and the ability to mix-and-match them to my heart’s content (no pesky upcharge to add ribs or burnt ends to a platter) – this menu did not disappoint.
Knowing that a to-go box and an afternoon nap were inevitable, I ordered a pair of three meat platters and selected the mac ‘n cheese, hickory pit beans, and smoked elotes (cheesy corn with a Mexican flair) as my first three sides. At the prompting of the gentleman behind the counter, I selected the bacon & blue potato salad as my fourth option.
Immediately recognizing that I was trying to sample a bit of everything and make a feast of it, the man who had recommended the potato salad (who I would find out the following day was Chef J himself – Justin Easterwood) put the utmost care into building a platter that I could only describe as gorgeous.
Straight away, I noticed the lack of sauce on the meats. While the misnomer that Kansas City drowns its meats in sauce is mostly inaccurate, it is still rare to see an entire plate without any sauce brushed or drizzled on. Chef J does have three sauces that they make in house (best I could tell they were a sweet-style, mustard-based, and more traditional and robust smoky sauce), but they choose to serve them on the side and allow the dry rub and the meat to stand on it’s own. One might say that there is a Texan take to a purely Kansas City line-up that immediately makes this spot stand out in a crowded scene.
With such a gargantuan feast before me, I had no problem discerning where I wanted to begin. The menu item that had most fascinated me was the bacon burnt end. There is no KC smoked meat that is more iconic than the beef burnt end but in recent years, pork variations, especially pork belly burnt ends, have become much more common here. Picking up my first bacon burnt end, I noticed that it lacked the crispy exterior that I often find on pork belly. Instead, I was surprised to find a soft, beautiful char, usually reserved for the city’s premier beef versions, with a light glaze. The glaze was subtle but highlighted the taste of the bacon burnt end. They were tender, much meatier than most pork belly I have had prior, and melted in my mouth like a fine candy. A perfect pairing with Chef J’s sweet sauce and I quickly understood why these are typically the first meat to sell out.
I opted to work my way clockwise around the mountain of meat in front of me. I personally consider smoked turkey to be the most underrated meat in Kansas City barbeque and so I tend to order it fairly frequently. I loved the thick slices of turkey and found the moisture and texture of Chef J’s turkey to be ideal. My one complaint would be that the dry rub on the turkey was a bit overwhelming as the peppery notes were quite profound and lingered long after each bite. This shortcoming was quickly remedied by pairing the turkey with the mustard-based sauce.
With such a focus on ketchup-based sauces in this town, the mustard-based style (most notably found in South Carolina and Georgia) is a relative rarity in Kansas City. I always get excited for the opportunity to try a new one. This sauce was especially memorable. Unlike other mustard sauces, there was a tangy tartness to this one, almost a citrus element, that worked in harmony with the mustardy flavor. It was quite delightful and complemented Chef J’s bird quite well.
Not since my last bowl of Rice Krispies, have I experienced a Snap, Crackle, and Pop as pleasing as the casing of the jalapeno cheddar sausage. Hardly cheesy but with the jalapeno making itself known, this sausage has a pleasant heat that sneaks up on you at the tail end of each bite.
The meat that is most often pre-sauced is pulled pork and I am incredibly grateful that Chef J did not feel the need to do so. The pork was tender, rich, and pulled apart nicely with a satisfying bark on the outside. It would have been a shame to hide the flavor of this pork butt in sauce but if you do feel the need, both the sweet and mustard sauces accompany it nicely.
Before I could traverse the tray any further, I found a nice, crisp, and vinegary pallet cleanser in the form of the, clearly homemade, pickled onions, carrots, jalapenos, and cucumber that garnished my plate.
Chef J’s brisket was a revelation. This was among the best brisket I have had in this city. A perfect char on the outside with a spectrum of seasonings that highlight the best flavors of this cut of beef. The thick-cut slices have the ideal ratio of fat to meat. While no sauce is needed for such an extraordinary brisket, the robust flavor of the traditional sauce made for a pleasant pairing.
As I rounded my sampling of the meats, I was impressed by the pork spare rib. They were succulent but still had the appropriate amount of firmness. The rub was savory with a hint of sweetness and each rib had a beautiful smoke ring. As was a recurring theme throughout this journey, I appreciated Chef J allowing the meat and his signature blend of seasonings to stand on their own.
The Bacon Burnt Ends at Chef J BBQ bill themselves as “Limited” with good reason. With a char that is reminiscent of the best beef burnt ends and surprising meatiness not often found in pork belly, these glazed cubes are a real treat.
With my initial sampling of the meats out of the way (and anxious to get back to the brisket), I found my way to the sides. The hickory pit beans were thick with visible chunks of smoked meat and a welcome aftertaste of molasses. They were quite typical for what you would expect from a Kansas City BBQ joint.
The smoked elotes (cheesy corn) was rich and creamy but not heavy at all. In fact, there was an unexpected sweetness to the elotes that I struggled to place (perhaps it was a testament to the quality of sweet corn used) that was quite appetizing once I got over the surprise of it.
The most unique side that I encountered was the one Chef J himself had recommended, the Bacon & Blue Potato Salad. It is so easy to overlook potato salad at times, and I nearly did, but I encourage you not to make that mistake at Chef J BBQ. In warmer weather, this would be my go-to side dish. I love the use of red-skinned potatoes in potato salad and they were a fantastic choice here. The creaminess and refreshing hint of dill in the base contrast so perfectly with the boldness of the blue cheese and the umami of the chunks of bacon. There is an assortment of flavors and textures in this dish working in perfect harmony in this very original twist on a long-held staple side dish.
Without intending to do so, I had saved the best of the side items for last. My first two bites of the mac ‘n cheese quickly became three and before I knew it, I had eaten the entire thing. Made with bow-tie pasta that has been drenched in a gooey mixture of cheeses, Chef J’s mac ‘n cheese is immaculate. Pun intended. There is no other word to describe it. It evokes every good fuzzy feeling that can only come from comfort food done right with a hint of smoke that simultaneously reminds you that this is barbeque.
Having finished off my mac ‘n cheese, I dug into some more of the brisket and a few other items and was soon stuffed. I walked up to the counter to request to-go containers for the two meals’ worth of food that would accompany me home and of course, I requested another side of the mustard-based sauce. As I waited, I caught a sign that read “Peanut Butter Snickers Pie” and knowing I could not possibly eat another bite, figured that will just have to wait for my next visit.
And there will most definitely be a next visit. Having only dined at Chef J BBQ once, I am hesitant to declare this one of the best places to get barbeque in the city. However, I am not, not saying that either. What I would say is that you need to find your way to the West Bottoms this holiday season and give the newest kid in KCQ a shot.
It may have started as a pandemic pop-up but Chef J BBQ has already shown that it has what it takes to be a mainstay of both the West Bottoms and Kansas City BBQ. So, drop in while you have the chance.
Every day we get closer to a time when we will no longer have to stand six feet apart and when dining areas will once again be full. And I can promise you, when that day does come - Chef J is going to have a line out the door like so many iconic Kansas City BBQ hotspots before him.
The 411:
Chef J BBQ
1401 W. 13th Street
Suite G
Kansas City, Missouri
HOURS: Friday and Saturday - 11:30am until 4:00pm OR Sell Out
www.chefjbbq.com
”So, What Do I Get?”: The first time you go anywhere a three meat platter is always a strong choice (go with the brisket, bacon burnt ends, and the pulled pork in that case) to give yourself the best sampling. Personally? I would get a large order of Chef J’s immaculate mac ‘n cheese topped with their mouthwatering brisket. Enjoy!
