Destination Q
Published March 30, 2023
A NOTE FROM THE WRITER: disKCovery has declared this year to be “The Year of the Pit”. This is the latest installment of a wide selection of articles, essays, and rankings devoted to a year-long deep dive into Kansas City barbeque. To see the rest of the 2Q23 series, click HERE.
“My one guilty pleasure is a good rack of ribs. Where I come from … a rack of ribs is a luxury, like Christmas in July.”
It’s been a decade since Frank Underwood uttered those words in the very first episode of House of Cards, and to this day I cannot recall a monologue that resonated with me more. In my mind, few delicacies in this world are finer than a rack of smoked pork ribs. Fortunately, I live in Kansas City where good ribs are quite plentiful. However, residency in the World Capital of BBQ can be a double-edged sword. As a Kansas Citian, who spent my youth raising Berkshires and Durocs, I am, for lack of a better term, an absolute pork rib snob. A good rib satisfies a craving, but a great rib? That can satiate the soul.
A great rib, in many ways, is like a great handshake. It should be well-balanced; firm, but comfortable. Nearly everyone would agree that that two things a handshake should never be are limp or wet. The same should be true of a pork rib. Sadly, that’s often not the case. Even sadder, is that many people just do not care.
In all of barbeque lore, there is nothing more cliché than the “fall-off-the-bone rib”. In no other cuisine, is a grossly overcooked cut of meat as widely celebrated as the “fall-off-the-bone rib”. Please hear me when I tell you that absolutely anybody can overcook a rib. Anybody! Pitmasters are aptly named because understanding the precise moment to remove a rack of ribs (or any cut of meat) from a smoker takes a level of mastery. A great rib is firm enough to cling to the bone but is soft enough to effortlessly fall off of it with a gentle tug of the teeth. A great rib has a nice outer bark that seals in the juices. It has some chew to it, but is still tender enough to melt in your mouth. Never wet, but not too dry either, a great rib always achieves an ideal level of moisture. Like Goldilocks hopping from one bowl of porridge to the next, I am similarly always hoping to find that pork rib that is just right. Great ribs are few and far between because only a true savant can strike the necessary balance. Only an artist can consistently produce a rack of ribs that is truly great.
Scott Roberts of Porky’s Blazin Bar-B-Q is such an artist. He smokes one of the best racks of ribs in this city, which means it is also one of the best slabs you will find anywhere. And frankly, that was something I never expected.
The flag-adorned red barn on South Buckner Tarsney may feel a bit random, but there is a history there. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
The first thing that I ever knew about Porky’s Blazin Bar-B-Q is that the joint seems to break the first three rules of many industries (“Location. Location. Location.”). Sitting in the countryside, squarely between Grain Valley and Lake Lotawana, the family-run restaurant is rather remote. Due to a few local accolades and a sterling reputation, the restaurant has long been on my list to try. While the location, and limited hours of operation, caused me to keep putting off a visit, I finally found an open Sunday afternoon earlier this year and made my way to Porky’s.
As I drove past farmland on Buckner Tarsney and approached the signature red barn, adorned with an assortment of flags, I remember thinking that I had gotten there rather quickly. Porky’s was not as far away as it had once seemed. Still, truth be told, the barn, the location; it all felt a bit random at the time. But, actually, there is a story there. “That building is about 112 years old”, Roberts would later tell me. “It has a lot of history. It was an old general store that had gas pumps and sold ice,” he explained. Going back even further, “That was the first place to vote in Jackson County. People could tie their horses up out front.”
While I cannot account for what the barn was, I can tell you what it is now. It’s comfortable. When I first walked through the door, it just felt like a natural fit. The warmth of the dining room and immediate, friendly greeting made me feel more like a guest in somebody’s home than a diner in a restaurant. Even placing my first order at the window, the woman at the register could not have been more accommodating! As a first timer, I knew I was ordering the Sampler platter so I could try all the meats. Still, she was eager to give me the rundown of the restaurant and point out the side dishes she thought I should order. It was clear that she was genuinely interested in me having the best experience at Porky’s.
She had also pointed out to me, when I placed the order, that all of the meats at Porky’s are served dry. I always appreciate this because it allows a diner to sauce their entrées as much or as little as they would prefer. I also admire the confidence of a pitmaster who is willing to let their rub, their smoke, and their meat quality speak for themselves. That said, as a Kansas Citian, I am never one to shy away from sauce. I was happy to see they had three offerings in giant dispensers by the drink station. Porky’s is one of a few local joints that does not make their own sauce in-house. Instead they use Caribbean Cowboy’s, aptly named “Hot”, “Mild”, and “Sweet”. When my platter arrived, I had a cup of each already on my table, sitting in wait.
Peeling back the foil that safeguarded the massive trough of smoked meat, I was greeted by a half-rack of babyback ribs that was sitting right on top. As a self-designated rib snob, it is important to point out that I am not only particular about the texture and flavor of a rib. I also am pretty picky about the cut. To me, the best ribs are St. Louis-style* spare ribs. While I can definitely enjoy a traditional spare rib or babyback rib from time to time (and Lord knows I love a good plate of rib tips!), it’s never quite the same. I never expected to be so hog-wild (pun definitely intended!) over a rack of babybacks, but there were clear-cut signs that these ribs could be special.
“A good rib satisfies a craving, but a great rib? That can satiate the soul.”
Simply put, they were eye-catching! The brilliant mahogany bark had a slight golden sheen. It looked to be perfectly crisp with a few well-placed breaks to let any onlooker know these were juicy ribs, but they were definitely not wet. Picking up a bone, I could not believe how much meat was there! This kind of thickness is usually reserved for the most elite of St. Louis cuts. What stuck out more than anything, was the smoke ring. It was so perfectly defined, rosy and deep, in stark contrast to the pinkish-white rib meat, as if it were painted on. I have never seen another rib quite like it.
There were undoubtedly signs that the babyback ribs at Porky’s were going to be something special. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
And that first bite? Nirvana. Absolute bliss. As picturesque as this slab was, the flavor was even better. They were ideally tender with the right amount of chew to them. The rub gave a signature flavor but did not overpower the high quality of the meat, or the smoke, which each had something to say. They were smoky and rich, with a tinge of sweet. There’s no other way to say it, Porky’s babyback ribs were exquisite. For my taste buds, dining on those ribs was truly like Christmas in July. Few ribs are capable of this. To have a babyback rib evoke this type of reaction from me? It changed everything that I thought I knew.
I couldn’t put the phenomenal ribs down, but, understanding the task that lie ahead, I had to force myself to stop after three bones so I could explore the other treasures that lied beneath the slab. The brisket was a bit of a Kansas City throwback - thin-sliced ribbons bursting with smoky flavor and oh, so tender. It was noticeably super lean with almost no fat on it! The Cajun sausage had a nice flavor and a really fantastic rind to it. The pulled pork was fantastic. It possessed the right amount of moisture, and a great flavor that makes it some of the better pulled pork I have had in recent memory. And the turkey? Porky’s nailed it! A medium-cut slice with excellent flavor. Not too dry but not wet either; just right. And then, there were the sides!
The woman in the window had implored me to try the Macaroni & Cheese as it was their newest offering. I am so glad she did! The combination of curvy Cavatappi noodles with Porky’s gooey white cheddar sauce was perfect. (Topped with a little pulled pork and some of the Caribbean Cowboy hot sauce, it became even more special!) The beans were fantastic. Homestyle flavors persisted. They were well-seasoned with a sweetness of molasses that shines. Most noticeable were the giant chunks of beef and onion in the beans. Scott Roberts would later explain to me that while many BBQ joints throw their assorted meat scraps in their beans, “I take some of my beef burnt ends and throw a lot of them right in there. People seem to like it.” Count me as one of those people. A side dish that’s twenty percent meat? It doesn’t get much more Kansas City than that.
Roberts modestly told me his grandma’s pasta salad is just “vinegar and sugar and spices” but we both know that it’s so much more than that. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
My third side, which had come highly recommended, was the pasta salad. While pasta salad is not an unusual barbeque side, it is not exactly a traditional one either. On first glance, I knew this particular salad was unique. It was a cup full of elbow macaroni littered with fresh, crisp chunks of onion, cucumber, and tomato. A deviation from true Midwest fashion, there was no mayonnaise base to be found. Instead, as Roberts modestly told me, “It’s just vinegar and sugar and spices.” Whatever it was, it was absolutely refreshing and a delightful contrast to the rest of the meal. Roberts would later reveal that several people have come around asking for his pasta salad recipe but he won’t give it up. “It’s my grandmother’s recipe. I make that myself every week.”
After sampling a bit of everything, I packed up my three meals worth of leftovers and headed for the door. As I approached the exit, realizing the restaurant had emptied out considerably and there was no line, I found myself walking back towards the order window. What can I say? Those otherworldly ribs were still on my mind and I had to thank the artist responsible.
“Thank you for the side dish recommendations, every single one was a homerun! Is there I chance you could tell me the best way to get in touch with the chef?” I asked the woman at the window.
“Oh yeah, give me a minute,” she replied, “My dad is around here somewhere.” Immediately I understood that part of the reason Porky’s felt like a family home is because it’s a family-run restaurant. When she returned, I immediately recognized the man who had brought my order to my table.
Getting to meet Scott Roberts that day, and then in conversations that followed, I learned so much about this man and his restaurant. The first thing that I came to understand is that Porky’s is a family affair. His daughter mans the ordering window. The rest of his family works throughout the rest of the restaurant. They all live nearby. His mother lives in a house on the same seven acre tract as the restaurant. Roberts couldn’t help but smile when he said that aspect of it all is “just awesome man”. More than family-run, it’s a family legacy. Like many pitmasters, Roberts grew up around barbeque.
His father, Dennis Roberts, owned and operated a barbeque restaurant in Clinton, Missouri from the late eighties until the early part of this century. That restaurant, Mozark’s, was a favorite among locals and a destination for diners throughout the surrounding region. Scott Roberts learned the craft from his father but did not immediately follow in his footsteps. Instead, the younger Roberts served in the United States Air Force, and then owned and operated his own construction company for over two decades. Eventually, Scott did return to barbeque when, in 2016, he had the opportunity to purchase Porky’s. Taking his own family and that legacy into consideration, Roberts did briefly consider a name change for Porky’s but he reminded himself of the strength of the name that the restaurant already had. “I liked Porky’s,” he explained to me. “People here know Porky’s.”
Porky’s is indeed a known quantity, especially in their corner of the city. It’s a longheld name in a historic Jackson County building. Still, history and a name can only do so much. So when I logically asked Roberts about his marketing efforts, he revealed, “We do zero advertising.” Instead, Porky’s reputation seems to have been built on a few things. First of all, the occasional accolade or shoutout from local publications doesn’t hurt. Roberts specifically pointed to an article from Kansas City Magazine in 2019 where Porky’s Blazin Bar-B-Q was named one of Kansas City’s 10 Best BBQ Spots. For many, that article was their first exposure to Porky’s.
“It’s about taking care of my customers. Period.”
Others have learned of the BBQ joint through their involvement in the community. The Roberts family, and their restaurant, loom large in the Grain Valley area. However, they have always taken every opportunity they can to engage the greater Kansas City area. Roberts relishes every opportunity he has to share his food with a new group of diners. “In 2017, the year after I bought the restaurant, I had the chance to cater the American [Royal] for some of the local radio stations.” Porky’s was such a hit that later on, when the Hunt Family Foundation (formerly the Kansas City Chiefs’ Children’s Fund) had a fundraiser featuring Kansas City barbeque, they reached out to Porky’s. He jumped at the opportunity.
“Patrick Mahomes personally served my ribs [and brisket] to about 600 people. Man, that’s something I will never forget.”
As Roberts gushed over that experience, I could not help but think that most restauranteurs would not donate their two most expensive cuts for a charity event. Then again, Scott Roberts is not most restauranteurs.
“I’ll be out there splitting wood, slicing meat, smokin’ it, and doing whatever I have to do to keep it rollin’ and provide for my customers.” During my first visit alone, I watched the Porky’s owner wait tables, bus tables, and, of course, tend to the smoker. That’s because everything that Porky’s Blazin Bar-B-Que does is deeply personal to Scott Roberts. The restaurant is a family-operated venture that builds upon a proud family legacy of “low ‘n slow”. That concept of family extends well beyond blood relatives and the Porky’s staff.
Porky’s incredibly lean beef burnt ends (seen here on bun) are also chopped up and used in the beans. Owner Scott Roberts is very intentional in order to get the best quality. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
“I consider almost everyone that comes through the door to be almost family.” Roberts reminded me of this every time that we spoke. “Everyone that eats our food, I feel like I build a relationship with them.”
More than anything, that sentiment seems to pervade every aspect of Porky’s Blazin Bar-B-Que. The strength of their brand is not just a name or a strong family legacy, it’s the way that they do things. Everything that Roberts and his restaurant does seems to be carefully measured.
There’s an attention to detail that cannot be overlooked. Consider the ribs that shattered my own worldview. Roberts is very particular about his vendor because “they’re the only ones that have the ribs the way I like them.” He is just as particular about his process. The first thing that Scott Roberts ever told me, right after I praised his ribs, was “We don’t use any propane. We start with hickory and cherry. We finish with hickory and cherry. I don’t know any other way.”
Even thinking about the sides I had with my meal, there were seemingly small decisions that made all the difference. Roberts’ choice to chop up actual burnt ends for the beans instead of just using meat scraps, shows a commitment to quality. When Porky’s introduced a new macaroni & cheese, the “common sense move” would have been to utilize the same elbow macaroni noodles that they were already using for their pasta salad. It would have been more efficient, a little less costly, and one less thing to order. It just felt like Roberts’ had decided that if he was going to introduce a macaroni & cheese that he was going to do it, like everything else, the right way. His way. For Roberts, macaroni & cheese is clearly made with cavatappi noodles and not elbow mac.
Even the decision to only be open three days per week is a carefully measured one. Past attempts to expand their days of service did not bear much fruit. While Roberts is working at his restaurant nearly every day of the week, he has found that being only open Friday through Sunday brings the same amount of customers and allows Porky’s to deliver a far better product.
Speaking of the customers, Roberts, and his family, bring that same level of attention to them. As a veteran himself, Roberts always extends a ten percent discount to military, police officers, and firefighters. Scott Roberts reiterated, “It’s about taking care of my customers. Period.” Circling back to the event with the Hunt Family Foundation: when I asked Roberts about the cuts he contributed, he only confirmed my suspicions. “Yeah, [brisket and ribs] are the most expensive but that’s also what I think I’m known for. I wanted people to have what we do best.” Even sitting at Porky’s, it feels that a solitary focus on the customer is a priority to every single person who works there. Porky’s Blazin makes every person in the restaurant feel like they are part of the family because to the Roberts? They are.
When a business commits themselves to an exceptional product, and a level of service to match, as the Roberts family has, the greatest secret to their success comes as no surprise - good ol’ fashioned word of mouth. “When we check our sales, about half of our customers are returning and the other half are brand new. We’re always busy.”
For lack of a better word, Porky’s Blazin Bar-B-Q is special. Their community and loyal customer base have known this for some time. And as a result, they seemingly cannot wait to spread the word.
Porky’s is so much more than the best babyback ribs on the planet. The pulled pork and turkey (pictured) are also memorable. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
I remember climbing into my car and securing my to-go boxes in the passenger seat after my first visit to Porky’s. I was not even five minutes down the road before I felt compelled to call my brother Ryan and proudly proclaim that I had likely discovered the best ribs in Kansas City. Discovered is not the right word. Porky’s was already selling about 200 slabs per weekend long before I ever took a bite. I was excited to tell him what I had stumbled upon nonetheless. Within an hour after that call ended, I would make two more such calls, and fire off a couple texts as well.
It is no wonder that Porky’s does not need to advertise. They deliver an experience, and a product, that is so exceptional their customers can’t help but talk about it. They don’t have to be open all week or be adjacent to other attractions because, in this instance, the restaurant IS the attraction. I recall at one point, about halfway through my second bone, thinking, “Now THIS is a destination rib!” And that still holds true.
Porky’s may be a bit off the beaten path, and they may be only open three days a week, but none of that matters. They serve the best babyback ribs on the planet and pair it with a level of service that is rarely found. That combination of familial hospitality with a homestyle meal? A truly great rack of ribs that not only fills your stomach, but also feeds the heart and soul?
Well, my friends, such a masterpiece is always worth the drive.
Those Pesky Endnotes That I Often Insist Upon
* It pains me to credit St. Louis with anything, especially in the world of barbeque, but this cut of ribs is something that St. Louis butchers got absolutely right. It is important to note that a St. Louis rib is a cut of meat, much like a Kansas City Strip. It is NOT a barbeque or cooking style. A traditional spare rib still has the rib tip, sternum, and gristle attached. The St. Louis cut removes these pieces for a more rectangular, meatier, and well-balanced rib that cooks much more evenly. On the competition circuit, this is the most common type of pork rib due to the ability to achieve consistency and for visual presentation purposes. As a result, some of the most popular, and best, pork ribs in the city, such as those at Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que or SLAP’s BBQ, are St. Louis cut.
The 411
Porky’s Blazin Bar-B-Que
9512 S. Buckner Tarsney Road
Grain Valley, Missouri
HOURS: Friday & Saturday - 11:00am - 8:00pm; Sunday - 11:00am - 3:00pm
www.porkysblazinbbq.com
”So, What Do I Get?”: I swear, it’s like you didn’t even read the article! Porky’s serves the best babyback ribs in existence! Get yourself at least half a slab! If you’re wanting to try a lot of things, or have a lot of people to feed, Porky’s excels at the platter / family meals and their ribs are part of every single one. When it comes to the sides, the beans, macaroni & cheese, and the pasta salad are all made in-house but the pasta salad is unique among KC barbeque sides. If you’re looking for a sandwich, a pulled pork and turkey combo would be a fine way to go.
Have you made the trip to Porky’s yet? What’s your favorite item on the menu?
Do you have a favorite “off-the-beaten-path” BBQ joint in the KC metro? Tell me about in the comments below!
