Pack Mentality
Craft barbeque and craft beer is always a winning combination.
Published November 17, 2022
On an unseasonably warm Friday in October, Jared Wolfe could be found tending to his 1000-gallon smoker on Burlington Avenue, as traffic raced by. Within the self-built tank, burned embers of oak and hickory as prime-cut brisket, slabs of pork belly, turkey breasts, cuts of goat, and pumpkins smoked to perfection.
Yes, you read that correctly. Goat and pumpkins.
”I just love to cook man. I love to play with different flavors,” Jared Wolfe, founder and namesake of Wolfepack BBQ, explained to me. “We had a chance to get our hands on some goat so we’re braising some goat cubes. We’re making a pumpkin curry soup and we have a nice pumpkin pale ale barbeque sauce that we made with Callsign’s Pale Ale that we’re putting out there.” What some may view as culinary eccentricity is just a typical Friday for Wolfe and his team.
In a city steeped in time-honored barbeque tradition, Wolfepack is never shy about doing things differently than most.
For example, take the BBQ joint itself. It’s not exactly a restaurant in the traditional sense. Instead, it’s a weekend pop-up. Even then, it does not feel like a normal pop-up. Its home within North Kansas City’s Callsign Brewing feels rather permanent, having been a part of the brewery ever since they moved into their new home in January of this year. Despite having regular hours at this location, those are a little static as well. Wolfepack BBQ, like many of the newer BBQ spots in the city, utilizes a sell-out model. In other words, they have hours, but the food may run out before the clock does. More often than not, that’s exactly what happens. Yet, Wolfe stands by this approach stating, “we still believe that all of our food needs to be made fresh and needs to be sold fresh that same day.”
You typically don’t expect to see something like smoked pumpkin curry soup on the menu at a BBQ joint but then again, Wolfepack BBQ is anything but typical.
Outside the brewery, there is little beyond a modest banner and a giant smoker in the parking lot to alert passersby that world-class barbeque is housed within. In this regard, the best way to describe Wolfepack may be as a barbeque speakeasy. Dependent upon social media and word-of-mouth, Wolfepack feels like an IYKYK (If You Know You Know) kind of craft eatery. While that was never the intentional design, something about that seems to fit the artisan style of Wolfepack BBQ.
Fortunately, it is beginning to feel like there are more and more people who know. One-time visitors seem to be a rarity as those who stop in, eager to try a new spot, quickly become repeat customers. Wolfe told me, “It’s amazing to see the people that believe in you and your passion and your dream.” Most notable, is the way that Northtown has embraced one of their newest BBQ joints, and the way that Wolfepack has embraced them in turn.
Originally from Platte City, Wolfe felt a need to move closer to the restaurant once it took off due the hours and attention that his craft demands. “We don’t have the benefit of a gas assist,” Wolfe reminds me. “We’re an all-wood pit so we have to start that much earlier.” While the decision to move was driven by proximity, Wolfe believed that North Kansas City was the best place for him and his family, due to the overwhelming support they have received within that community. The way that Wolfepack BBQ’s team likes to tell it, that connection to the surrounding area is so important.
“Barbeque is a community food,” Sam Parker chimes in.
Wolfe’s business partner and co-founder of Wolfepack goes on to explain. “It takes a community to make it and it takes a community to enjoy it. Barbeque is communal. It’s meant to be shared.” Wolfe is quick to agree, asserting that, “It’s not just one person anymore.”
“Barbeque is a community food.”
But, it never really was. A quick peek at Jared Wolfe’s resume will tell you that. A bit of a journeyman, his first foray into Kansas City barbeque was as a pitmaster for Scott’s Kitchen. The airport-adjacent BBQ joint is widely known for only being open during breakfast and lunch hours. So, when John Atwell and Rod Blackburn opened Jousting Pigs BBQ, Wolfe found an opportunity to moonlight on nights and weekends in Liberty. Eventually, that gave way to a full-time position at Jousting Pigs. Wolfe then went on to work with Andy Fox at Fox & Fire, who was the food concept at Callsign Brewing’s original space. It was while at Fox & Fire that Wolfe started working with his longtime friend Sam Parker. “He had just come back from Colorado and started helping out as a way to pass the time,” Wolfe recalls. “Then he caught the BBQ bug.”
When Fox & Fire made the decision to relocate to Kearny in the Fall of 2021, and with Callsign Brewing eager for a food concept for their new, much-larger space, Wolfe and Parker saw an opportunity to go it on their own. “We didn’t know if we were prepared yet but, are you ever going to really be prepared?,” Parker remembers. Wolfe added, “We wanted to figure out how to branch out and do our own thing.” It was a risk to be certain but as Parker puts it, “Sometimes to learn, you gotta be burned.” In other words, sometimes you need to set aside your fears and just take the leap.
With Callsign Brewing eager to continue having a food concept in their new brewery space, it was a perfect opportunity for Jared Wolfe and Sam Parker to establish their own brand.
Part of what gave the duo confidence to move forward was the relationships they had built in Kansas City. They felt great about the relationship they already had with Callsign Brewing, but it was also about their relationships in the local barbeque community. “For us,” Wolfe said, “there are four people in Kansas City that we could throw off our hats to, for making this thing possible: Scott [Umscheid] at Scott’s Kitchen, John [Atwell] from Jousting [Pigs BBQ], Andy [Fox at Fox & Fire], of course, and then Todd [Johns from Plowboys BBQ]. [Todd Johns] has done everything he can to support, help, and be there for us and for Kansas City BBQ.” While it may seem contrary to the competitive nature of any industry, Wolfe loves to talk about the way local pitmasters support one another and has frequently compared Kansas City’s barbeque scene to the microbrewery one. “Everybody’s helping everybody. We all want to see each other succeed.”
Sam Parker (LEFT) and Jared Wolfe (RIGHT) may have co-founded Wolfepack BBQ, but it takes a whole team to do what they do. IMAGE COURTESY OF - Wolfepack BBQ
So even before Wolfepack BBQ got its feet off the ground, it was never one or two people. It definitely isn’t now. The support of the barbeque community and the surrounding community, along with that of family and friends, has been integral to Wolfepack; but nothing compares to the support of the family that Wolfe and Parker have built. It has often been said that blood is thicker than water but in the case of this barbeque “pop-up”, it feels fair to say that smoke is thicker than blood. “We built up a team around us,” Wolfe tells me, “and we are so much more than family.” Pointing at Parker, he continues, “If it was just him and I doing this thing, there’s no f——— way we’d be open right now.”
Wolfe and Parker are both quick to give credit to the individual team members who not only made Wolfepack BBQ possible, but who continue to go the extra mile to allow it to be successful. The two men showering their team members with praise one-by-one immediately reminds me of one of the first things Parker told me, “[Barbeque] takes a community to make it.” As the two continue, I come to realize that Wolfepack is so much more than a punny name. It is the way that these two, and their team, approach barbeque. It’s a way of life. Suddenly, I am reminded of a scene in Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book, or more specifically, a mantra. “The strength of the Pack is the Wolf, and the strength of the Wolf is the Pack.”
And so I ask the question, about the name. “Yeah man, we thought about a lot of things and I was thinking it would be Lone Wolfe BBQ and that sounded cool,” Wolfe answers. Parker is quick to complete the thought, “But it didn’t really fit.”
So in this sense, the Wolfepack BBQ name is indicative of how the team prepares their food because it is not just Wolfe or Parker out there re-defining Kansas City barbeque. Their particular brand of barbeque ingenuity takes an entire pack. “We know how flavors work with one another,” Wolfe explains. “It’s a team effort. We take the time to figure out what we have and what we all think will work.”
“The strength of the Pack is the Wolf, and the strength of the Wolf is the Pack.”
The shared creativity of Wolfe’s Pack has opened the door to some exciting possibilities for their menu. Very few in Kansas City, are pushing the envelope of barbeque to the same degree they are. From inception, innovation has been at the heart of everything that they do. The relationships that the members of that pack have built around the city also contribute to that. Calling attention back to the goat and pumpkin dishes on that particular October menu, Parker revealed, “Someone told us they had some pumpkins and so we just took them and said, ‘we’ll figure something out.”
And figure something out they did! These choices were inspired. Goat is a meat that can dry out easily, especially in a smoker, but these bone-in chunks on that day were so juicy and tender. The gamy woodfired meat bordered on being a stew and worked in concert with the sweetness of the squashes used in the dish. The pumpkin curry soup was a light bisque with a bit of flakiness. Beyond that, this was a wildly different dish than the New England staple one may expect. The pumpkin was clearly the star but the smoky, savory, sweet, and earthy notes were all there. Few would dare to combine curry and pumpkin. Even Parker admitted, “I wasn’t as sure as others on the use of curry but it’s so good!” The moment the pumpkin subsides, the curry comes in softly on the back-end like a surprise encore that puts this dish over the top.
At Wolfepack BBQ, authentic pit beans, with large chunks of brisket, is what you’ll find.
At last month’s Party in the Pit, Wolfepack BBQ turned heads with their thick and smoky Wagyu beef brisket served on a bed of cheddar grits and topped with a cherry chipotle glaze, sesame seeds, and micro greens. In the wake of that party, I was eager to pick Wolfe’s and Parker’s brains about their inventive approach to the art of low ‘n slow.
“We want to be more than just barbeque,” Wolfe told me. When I asked about some of the other fun things they have done, Wolfe was not shy about sharing. “Once we took sweet potatoes and smoked them, cubed them up, and featured them in a barbeque vegetarian dish.” He went on to ask, “Why not have some fun with this stuff?”
Ever the innovators, Wolfepack relishes in introducing the public to new variations of traditional barbeque favorites such as sausages, potato salads, and coleslaws. For Wolfe, getting creative with sausage varieties is especially fun. “Sausage is a vessel of trimmings and cast away items that allow us to really harness our creativity and explores some new flavors and share those with others.” Wolfe’s and Parker’s faces both lit up as they began to reminisce about the smoked Reuben they rolled out earlier this year. The pair were gushing over how much of a hit their house-made pastrami and made-from-scratch sauerkraut were. The need to make ALMOST everything in-house is also paramount to Wolfepack’s identity. “Everything but the bun,” the pair reminded me.
Recently, Wolfepack debuted a vinegary Carolina red slaw that was littered with chunks of pineapple and is unique among other KC slaws. Unafraid to play around with new flavors, this pack of artists is constantly creating. Wolfe understands that ultimately it’s about how a dish is received by the customer. “Of course we have to play the market,” he admits. “We may only get to [create and serve a dish] once so we’re going to make sure we get it right.” Given the fleeting nature of some of their menu items, there is almost a degree of FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out) built right into their business model.
And so, for Wolfepack BBQ, it has become all about balance. They focus on having fan favorites and regular staples that they are known for; while also continuing to create one-of-a-kind dishes that make every visit a stand-alone experience.
“If you ever happen upon a list of the top-five smoked briskets in KC and Wolfepack is not on that list? That list is wrong.”
Among their regular staples, the pork ribs are no-nonsense and exactly what they should be. Pork belly continues to feature more and more in Kansas City barbeque and these pieces are meaty, well-marbled, and flavorful. The gouda-laden mac ‘n cheese is wonderful.
The thick-sliced craft brisket has an exquisite black cherry-colored char. The meat is rich, tender, and flawless. The bright rose smoke ring beneath the char tells the entire story before you ever take a single bite. But once you do, it’s like cotton candy. It just melts into your taste buds. If you ever happen upon a list of the top-five smoked briskets in KC and Wolfepack is not on that list? That list is wrong.
The same can probably be said for the beans. Not too soupy, more like a pudding, the beans have a bold barbeque flavor. Large chunks of that incredible brisket and tiny onion crystals just explode with flavor. A nice profile of bell pepper and, what seems to be, chili powder bring the dish home.
What Wolfepack likely does better than anyone in town is their smoked turkey. The big white breast pieces have such a lovely smoke ring and a nice outer seasoning. Ideally moist, but also dry in the way that white meat should be, this smoked bird feels effortless. It’s nearly graceful. The quality of the turkey and the way it is prepared is unmatched by any other pit in Kansas City. It’s simply elite. The turkey, pork belly, and brisket keep me coming back. The ever-changing array of sides and featured entrées always make me glad I did.
As incredible as the food is, Wolfe will continually bring the conversation back to his team, and to the experience they create for their guests through food. “Eighty percent of eating is with our eyes,” Wolfe speculated. “Ten percent is the conversation and then ten percent is the food.”
Brisket in Kansas City does not get much better than what they’re serving at Wolfepack BBQ in North Kansas City.
I remember my first visit to Wolfepack BBQ back in the spring. I had stopped into Callsign for a mid-day brew, eager to try out one of the city’s newest BBQ joints. As phenomenal as the meal was, what will always stand out is that being the day I first met Jared Wolfe. I was nothing more than a guy eating his food, but Wolfe felt the need to come up and talk to me about my meal. He wanted to know what I liked, and what didn’t work for me. He was eager to answer questions and to share all he could about his team’s approach to the food. He wanted to know what other barbeque restaurants I liked. He wanted to chat about the ones in the city that he thought I should try. Whatever amount of his time I was willing to take, he was willing to give.
A few weeks back, Wolfe told me, “For us to have the push like we have, it shows that we have engaged our customers. We love every person that comes in to support us.” The first time I ate there, I was just another customer, and that’s exactly how Wolfe treated me.
“COVID created an emphasis on supporting local for many people but when they do make that effort to go somewhere new and spend their money, they’re looking for a local experience they don’t get at home.” To Wolfe and his team, it does not make sense to create if they’re not going to make an active effort to engage those who enjoy their creations.
After all, “Barbeque is a community food.”
Without the guidance and collaboration of Kansas City’s established barbeque community, Wolfepack BBQ likely never happens. That barbeque community has created an incubator that makes Kansas City a fertile ground for any would-be pitmasters. Wolfepack BBQ could not open every weekend without a community that works tirelessly to challenge pre-conceived notions of what KC barbeque can be. And that team would be lost without the Northtown community who has embraced this craft barbeque joint, and lines up until sell-out, every single weekend.
Much can be, and has been, said about Wolfepack BBQ and what they do well. Yet, it all boils down to this: the strength of Wolfepack is a number of communities, and the strength of those communities is Wolfepack.
The 411:
Wolfepack BBQ [at Callsign Brewing]
1340 Burlington Street
North Kansas City, MO
HOURS: Thursday - Saturday, 11:00am - 7:00pm OR Sell-out
www.wolfepackbbq.com/
“So, What Do I Get?” The obvious choice seems to be to order the two-meat sandwich. In that case, brisket and turkey is absolutely the way to go! However, if you were to sub one of those meats out for the pork belly? I wouldn’t fault you. The beans are a surefire winner, as is the mac ‘n cheese.
That said, don’t be afraid of some adventure! Wolfepack’s crew are masters of innovation so if there’s a chance to try an unusual potato salad, non-traditional cut of smoked meat, or even a seemingly-exotic soup (definitely do not sleep on the soups!), then give it a shot! I am still dreaming about my next cup of pumpkin curry soup. There’s no guarantee that unique dish you’re eyeing will be available on your return, so go for it. Whatever you do, ARRIVE EARLY. The sell-out model that they have in place makes the lunch hour the ideal time to visit.
Have you been to Wolfepack BBQ? What’s the best thing you’ve had? As always, let me hear it in the comments.
