Devan’s Dozen: BBQ Sandwiches Edition
The Spectacular Smoked Specialty Sandwiches of the World Capital of Q
Published January 31, 2023
A NOTE FROM THE WRITER: disKCovery has declared this year to be “The Year of the Pit”. This is the latest installment of a wide selection of articles, essays, and rankings devoted to a year-long deep dive into Kansas City barbeque. To see the rest of the 2Q23 series, click HERE.
If you ask a group of Kansas Citians what they consider to be the most iconic KC barbeque meal*, you will get an assortment of answers. However, I can almost guarantee that one answer will always be in the mix. Undoubtedly someone will reply, “A Z-Man with fries”. The Joe’s Kansas City creation that features sliced brisket, melted provolone, two fried onion rings, and some of Joe’s sauce on a Kaiser roll, is the most famous sandwich in the city. In recent years, it has become nationally known. It is the entrée most often identified with both the city and the entire state of Kansas.
The Z-Man has an origin that is as legendary as the sandwich itself. It’s the sandwich that named itself! And while I would love to tell that story, I would never dream of even trying to do so when Jeff Stehney, the founder and owner of Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que, tells it perfectly in the short video below.
In the 1990s, Kansas City barbeque was in its first renaissance. The established brands and pitmasters were being challenged not only because of the growth of the scene, but because the competition circuit was making its way to the restaurant industry. As those who competed week in and week out brought that innovative and competitive spirit to their newly established BBQ joints, they began to challenge what BBQ in this city could be. Joe’s Kansas City (then Oklahoma Joe’s) was a place at the forefront of this rebirth and redefinition. What Stehney chooses to humbly brush over in the video above, is that the Z-Man is not only popular, but it changed the entire face of Kansas City ‘que!
Now, I will not make the claim that the Z-Man was the first specialty sandwich (a barbeque sandiwich that features more than just smoked meat and/or sauce and pickles on bread or bun) in the city, because I cannot find definitive evidence that this is true. However, it is widely agreed that the Z-Man was the first popular one. For most of the barbeque history, the craft has been straightforward with few frills. Something that may seem sensible now like combining smoked meat with cheese was simply not done. As barbeque evolved and expanded the definition of what it can be, specialty sandwiches have become incredibly commonplace. In Kansas City, the lion’s share of them follow the Z-Man’s winning formula of smoked meat + cheese + fried side item + sauce + bread. Often imitated, but never duplicated, the Z-Man and its popularity has largely defined the last quarter century of Kansas City ‘que.
When it comes to eating at barbeque restaurants, there seem to be two camps of people. There are those, like me, who are likely to go for the meat platter where I can sample as many meats and sides as possible in one place. The other group, which seems to constitute the majority, are more likely to order a sandwich and a side. Many times, that may be a traditional meat on bun but nowadays, there is a growing expectation of flair from a barbeque sandwich.
As a result, there are those who will write off the specialty sandwich is a gimmick. A few hipster purists will turn their noses at the notion. Both reactions are unfair and absurd. Yes, specialty sandwiches can be a way to stand out in a crowded BBQ scene, but they are so much more than that. When done right, they are something that is worthy of admiration. When a pitmaster can take their smoked meat(s) and then determine the breads, cheeses, sauces, toppings, textures, or ingredients that will best highlight that meat, they cease to be chefs. In that moment, they become artists.
A bun can be a powerful canvas. While the Kansas City BBQ specialty sandwich may seem awfully formulaic, that does not undermine their delicious flavor or the creativity behind them. That formula does not detract from the fact that the number of BBQ specialty sandwiches available in this city has grown to a point that it would be impossible to count them all. In fact, there are so many options that it would seem there is a need to cut through the noise and highlight the best of the best.
And so, I present the first Devan’s Dozen of 2023 as I rank the 12 best barbeque specialty sandwiches in Kansas City. To be considered for these rankings, a sandwich had to meet the following criteria:
Sold by a universally agreed-upon Kansas City barbeque restaurant, joint, truck, or trailer. For example, a barbeque sandwich from a place like Pigwich or Rye would not be considered.
The sandwich must have a minimum of three ingredients (not counting the bread or bun).
One of the ingredients must be something that would not qualify as a meat or sauce.
One of the ingredients must be smoked.
Sandwich must be offered regularly on menu at least once a week. Seasonal offerings and “secret menu” items were not considered.
That being said, does the iconic Z-Man still reign supreme and sit atop these rankings? What other elite sandwiches are out there? Scroll down and find out!
HONORABLE MENTION - Bern Street Beef Burnt End Breakfast Burrito
Scott’s Kitchen and Catering at Hangar 29 - Kansas City, Missouri
While the vast majority wouldn’t consider the breakfast burritos at Scott’s Kitchen to be a sandwich, they deserve a mention on this list. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
A burrito on a sandwich list?! You must think that I am nuts. There are actually multiple schools of thought on this. No, seriously, the Massachusetts State Court famously ruled that a burrito is not a sandwich, while the New York Court actually ruled it is. I sleep better at night knowing that public funds are tackling these very “real issues”. While I do not personally consider a burrito to be a sandwich, I do know two things. It is hard to know where to credit Scott’s Kitchen’s incredible creation in any rankings and that this dish is deserving of recognition. These burritos are as innovative and delicious as any top-tier specialty sandwich. As one of the first barbeque joints to serve daily breakfast, Scott’s breakfast burritos are especially noteworthy. The large burritos, feature fluffy scrambled eggs, breakfast potatoes, assorted cheeses, and housemade salsa with a meat of your choice all stuffed inside a warm flour tortilla are an amazing way to start the day. Anytime that I find myself in the Northland or around the airport between the hours of 7:00am and 10:00am, a beef burnt end breakfast burrito from Scott’s Kitchen is a must! While it did not seem fair to rank this amazing breakfast behemoth among the city’s top specialty sandwiches, it also felt incredilby unfair to leave them out entirely. Thus, they get an honorable mention. That being said? On to the sandwiches!
#12 - Triple “P”
Woodyard Bar-B-Que - Kansas City, Kansas
Woodyard’s Triple “P” is aptly named because it is piled high with three preparations of pork - pulled pork, ham, and bacon. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
In many ways, the signature sandwich at Woodyard Bar-B-Que is as simple as the name. It’s just triple “P”ork. However, as has often been said, “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” The combination of pulled pork, smoked ham, crispy smoked bacon, and creamy, melted provolone piled high on a bun is simply exquisite. The bacon that is somehow sweet, salty, smoky, chewy, and crispy all at once, is the coup de grace of this masterpiece. It is one of the forbearers of the specialty sandwich trend and it has stood the test of time. Try it with a side of their amazing cheesy corn or even better, Woodyard’s potato salad, which may just be the city’s best.
#11 - Short Rib Grilled Cheese
Kurzweil’s Country Meats - Harrisonville, Missouri
The Short Rib Grilled Cheese from Kurzweil’s Country Meats is perfectly griddled. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
First and foremost, Kurzweil’s is a butcher shop but make no mistake, this is a spot for good barbeque. After all, why not let the people who sell some of the best cuts, smoke those cuts for you! Their menu identifies the Short Rib Grilled Cheese as a “#1 Seller” for good reason. The shaved beef short rib is incredibly tender and well-seasoned. The melted Gouda and the horseradish sauce kind of meld together to create a wonderfully rich and creamy texture. The onions are ideally caramelized and the white bread is buttered and perfectly griddled. With a side of fries, this melt is hard to beat.
#10 - The Jester
Jousting Pigs BBQ - Kansas City, Kansas
The Jester’s gooey cheese blend and Texas Toothpicks make it unique among KC specialty sandwiches. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
While the original location in Liberty recently closed, Jousting Pigs BBQ is still alive and well in the Legends Shopping Center! Known for their beef brisket, The Jester puts one of the stars of the Jousting Pigs’ line-up at the forefront. Sliced beef brisket is topped with Texas Toothpicks (mix of fried onion straws and fried jalapeno straws) and their gooey cheese sauce, which is a decadent blend of Gouda and Havarti, and served on a lush, toasted brioche bun. The mix of tender, crunchy, chewy, and soft textures is lovely. The sweetness of the buttery bun, the richness of the cheese, the boldness of the toothpicks, and the smoked tender meat all work together to create a unique and amazing sandwich.
DD’s Pro Tip: One thing I appreciate most about The Jester is that Jousting Pigs doesn’t sauce it. Now, it comes with some on the side and should be used but be warned, just a little bit of the sweet sauce goes a LONG way on this sandwich.
#9 - Mr. Burns
Q39 - Multiple Locations
Ever since Q39 opened in 2014, the Mr. Burns has been the star of the sandwich line-up. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Ever since they burst on to the scene, Q39 has been a haven for specialty sandwich lovers. In fact, I could probably fill half of this list with their creations. However, the nature of their menu means that many of their best sandwiches have a limited shelf life. Amazing creations like their Grilled Pork Belly Sandwich (with sliced green apple) or the No Jackin’ Around (a pulled pork specialty favorite from their earliest days) are sadly seasonal offerings or no longer on the menu. The A-lister that has lasted at Q39 is the Mr. Burns. The sandwich features their renowned beef burnt ends, their famous crispy onion straws, delectable chipotle BBQ sauce, all piled high on a toasted bun. Known for their brisket and perfectly seasoned straws, it is hard to order anything besides the sandwich that features both. With a side of their amazing apple slaw, this is the ideal BBQ lunch.
#8 - The Jackknife
Char Bar Smoked Meats and Amusements - Kansas City, Missouri
When ordered with jackfruit, the Jackknife is not only one of the premier BBQ sandwiches in the city - it is the premier BBQ option for vegetarians. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Truth be told, when I started putting together a list of the best specialty sandwiches in the city, Char Bar probably had about five entrants in my initial Top 30. They have one of the best specialty sandwich line-ups in the city. For a place that constantly contends to make Devan’s Dozen history, they nearly made this list twice. That said, their lone entrant on this particular list is The Jackknife! This sandwich features a choice of smoked turkey or smoked jackfruit topped with melted provolone, sliced avocado, and fried jalapenos on an egg bun. The sandwich is built on contrasts. Conflicting textures and the war between the creamy, soothing avocado and the crispy, spicy jalapenos make this sandwich a work of art.
DD’s Pro Tip: It is very rare that I will ever choose a vegetable over meat but in this instance, opt for the jackfruit. The turkey is excellent but that alone tells you how strongly I feel about the quality of the jackfruit. This is the best BBQ vegetarian option in the city and an opportunity to try something you won’t find many places.
#7 - The DOMinator
Smoketown BBQ & Catering - Overland Park, Kansas
While the “DOM” is traditionally served on a bun, I can never pass up a chance to ask for my sandwiches to be served on some of the best Texas Toast I have ever had. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
The first time that I visited Smoketown BBQ, I ordered a platter, as I often do on an initial visit. While my meal was fantastic, it did not take long for me to get order envy as I saw the array of specialty sandwiches that were being carried out to nearby tables. Very quickly, Smoketown has become a place known for their sandwiches with the iron-branded buns. While there are a number of options to choose from, the DOMinator is the one that stands out. The DOM features beef burnt ends, melted pepper jack cheese, grilled red onion, and pickles on their signature toasted, branded bun. While the joint has a duo of exceptional sauces that both work on this sandwich, they are not needed. The tender and softly charred burnt ends work perfectly on this sandwich. The melted pepper jack offers a nice kick that is countered by the sweetness of the onions and the tartness of the pickles. Quickly, these have become some of my favorite burnt ends in the city and the DOMinator is ideally constructed to highlight their flavor and texture.
DD’s Pro Tip: The Texas Toast that comes standard with BBQ platters at Smoketown is the best Texas Toast in the city (Seriously!). So asking to sub out the bun for Texas Toast as seen above not only makes for an easier-to-hold / eat sandwich, but it gives you a chance to try the two things you should always get at Smoketown - the beef burnt ends and that amazing toast!
#6 - The Big Pig
Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue - Multiple Locations
The Big Pig at Jack Stack lives up to the name as it is so tall it can be difficult to get a proper bite. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
The Big Pig at Jack Stack may seem similar to another sandwich on this list - the Triple “P” at Woodyard. It features the same trio of meats and the same cheese. However, there are three key differences that merit the Big Pig’s ranking on this list. The Big Pig has pulled pork, smoked ham, and bacon piled high on a toasted Kaiser roll with a blanket of melted provolone. Atop that mound of meat, is a gigantic corn-dusted onion ring. Jack Stack is known for having some of the best onion rings in the city. The giant cornmeal breaded ring perfectly pairs with the dusted Kaiser roll. What makes this sandwich even more special is the sauce. Jack Stack serves all their meals with two signature sauces and yet, the restaurant has a third sauce that they make specifically for this sandwich. Jack Stack makes a South Carolina/Georgia inspired mustard-based sauce that is an ideal companion for the pork and the onion ring. This Carolina twist makes the Big Pig unlike any other sandwich in KC. And while that sauce is only served with this sandwich, requesting it with other plates and meals is a bit of a “secret menu” hack at all of their locations.
DD’s Pro Tip: Oftentimes, Jack Stack’s sandwiches will come with one large side. However, you can always sub out one large side for two smaller sides. At that point, the cheesy corn and the pit beans are the standard option. Regardless, always choose variety when you have a place like Jack Stack that is renowned for their side dishes, over an oversized portion of one thing.
#5 - The Irish Hawg
Hawg Jaw Que & Brew - North Kansas City, Missouri
A lot of BBQ joints love to smoke corned beef and offer a BBQ Reuben around St. Patrick’s Day but Hawg Jaw offers their version year-round. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Now Hawg Jaw Que & Brew, in Northtown is not unique in that they offer their own BBQ take on a Reuben. What makes Hawg Jaw special is that they are one of the few who offer their Reuben equivalent daily, and year-round. Not only is it one of the best BBQ sandwiches in the city, it’s one of the best Reubens! The combination of smoked corned beef, smoked sausage, and spicy sauerkraut (all made in-house) makes this sandwich special. Add in Swiss Cheese, Thousand Island Dressing, and soft, chewy marble rye? It’s truly something to behold. The combination of textures, and the surprising heat that this sandwich packs, makes it a must-try! For a real treat, order it with a side of Hawg Jaw’s fries which are some of the best in town.
DD’s Pro Tip: One of the best microbreweries in the metro, Big Rip Brewing, shares a wall with Hawg Jaw and even has a partnership with them. Feel free to place an order online while you enjoy a pint next door. Not only will Hawg Jaw let you know when your order is ready, they’ll deliver it to you in the brewery!
#4 - The Z-Man
Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que - Multiple Locations
In many ways, the Z-Man at Joe’s Kansas City is The Godfather of Kansas City BBQ specialty sandwiches. It definitely provided a winning template for other BBQ joints. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
You now know the story and you understand why the Z-Man is so iconic in Kansas City BBQ and sandwich history. If you are from KC, you likely know that the Z-Man is delicious. It is without question the most popular sandwich in the city but for the sake of these rankings, the signature sandwich at Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que lands at fourth overall. Many may consider this blasphemous as it really is the template by which most Kansas City smoked specialty sandwiches have been built. Any inclusion in these rankings is a testament to quality and consider the inverse. The fact that after DECADES of challengers and imitators, Joe’s has maintained the quality and this winning combination still resides in the top percentile of sandwiches, says all that needs to be said about its brilliance. Also, something tells me that by the end of this, the creators will be the last people to feel slighted by this ranking.
DD’s Pro Tip: If you are vegetarian, Joe’s Kansas City does offer an incredibly popular vegetarian version of the sandwich that features a smoked portabella mushroom in lieu of the brisket. While many will sub out various meats to create their own Z-Man, the brisket version still reigns supreme.
#3 - XXL Loaded Sausage Sandwich
Moose’s BBQ & Catering - Gardner, Kansas
The XXL Loaded Sausage Sandwich at Moose’s is one of the metro’s elite sandwiches and is on its own worth a trip to Gardner. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
For many, Gardner may seem like a bit of a trek, but the XXL Loaded Sausage Sandwich at Moose’s BBQ & Catering is enough reason to make the drive. Served out of a fully-equipped trailer that is parked in downtown Gardner, Moose’s offers great smoked meats and sides with signature Midwestern hospitality. The star of the menu is the XXL Loaded Sausage Sandwich which features a halved, house-made sausage variety of your choice. I highly recommend the Smoked Jalapeno Sausage for this sandwich (though the Smoked Polish is an option!). The sausage is placed on a pillowy soft sesame seed bun and piled high with dry-style smoked pulled pork, pieces of chewy smoked bacon, white queso cheese sauce, and Moose’s sweet Kansas City style sauce. It’s melty, sweet, savory, spicy, smoky, and altogether wonderful. The queso binds all these textures and ingredients together in such a way that this sandwich is really just a giant chunk of goodness. A bit messy and an absolute handful, as the XXL name implies, I cannot dream of ever visiting Gardner without grabbing one of these sandwiches. It is exquisitely built and just everything that a BBQ specialty sandwich should aspire to be.
DD’s Pro Tip: The trailer for Moose’s is deep enough in the parking lot off the main stretch that I encourage you to slow down as your GPS approaches, or you may miss it altogether. Look for the large black flags that advertise BBQ as you approach.
#2 - The Big D
Danny Edwards BLVD BBQ - Kansas City, Missouri
Many would be quick to point out several similarities between the Z-Man and the Big D, but the Big D is it’s own sandwich. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
It would seem that Danny Edwards definitely borrowed heavily from the influence of the Z-Man to make one of the best BBQ sandwiches in town. While there are similarities, the Big D is a noticeably different sandwich. Edwards’ creation takes smoked beef sirloin point^, tops it with melted Swiss Cheese, 2 crispy onion rings, and serves it on Roma’s marble rye. In fact, when you think about it, the only common ingredient between the two is the onion rings. Even then, the zippy, crunchy, house-made onion rings at Danny Edwards are unique and a large part of the charm of this sandwich. The blend of textures and flavors is exceptional and it all works so well on the chewy Marble Rye. Some may call the Big D an imitation of the Z-Man. If that is the case, it’s the only one that surpasses the original. To me, it is one of many sandwiches that borrow the formula and one of the few that improves upon it. Not only is the Big D an exceptional sandwich, but the lunch special with a side is one of the best mid-day barbeque meal deals in the metro.
DD’s Pro Tip: If you decide to visit Danny Edwards on a Wednesday, you can actually sub out the beef sirloin point for their homemade smoked corned beef. It makes for an entirely different, but equally great, sandwich.
#1 - The Rocket Pig
Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que - Multiple Locations
Intentional or not, the way that the jalapeno bottle caps often resemble pig snouts only adds to the visual appeal of the Rocket Pig. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que not only cracks this list twice, but they repeat twice within my top four. The greatest challenge of being on top, is finding a way to stay there. Joe’s has managed to do exactly that. If the Z-Man is indeed The Godfather of KC smoked specialty sandwiches, then The Rocket Pig fits the bill as a sequel that is actually better than the original. Introduced in 2018, this creation features Joe’s pulled pork tossed in a sweet and spicy barbeque glaze. It is topped with smoked bacon, melted pepper jack cheese, fried jalapeno bottle caps (that actually resemble miniature pig snouts) and a lovely barbeque mayo on a toasted bun. The combination of crunchy, chewy, and soft textures with sweet, spicy, and savory flavors is impossible to beat. It is hard to believe that the Z-Man is not the best sandwich on the Joe’s menu or that a restaurant could ever find a way to top that sandwich, but hey, sometimes lightning does strike the same place twice!
DD’s Pro Tip: Why choose between the two amazing sandwiches? Take a friend to Joe’s and order one of each, order a sack of fries, and split everything down the middle for a terrific and memorable BBQ meal.
At the end of the day, specialty sandwiches are like art in that there really aren’t any rules. There are techniques to employ and there are definitions for what constitutes a specialty sandwich but rules are meant to be broken. Barbeque is meant to be challenged. What can be made from a variety of breads, smoked meats, and toppings is without limits. While this list represents the best BBQ sandwiches in the city, it represents so much more. It celebrates the spirit of creativity.
So, don’t only explore these sandwiches but try others. And then, come up with your own combos! Throw some Joe’s fries on that burnt end on bun (and a slice of cheddar if you’re so inclined), add some Hawg Jaw fried pickles to your pulled pork sandwich, or even, consider subbing out a meat for another (like I did with pork on the Big D on a day last winter when Danny Edwards ran out of beef) and see what happens. Maybe consider opting for a meat that is not as heavily featured in specialty sandwiches such as turkey, chicken, pork belly, or mutton (where offered). See what you can come up with! The pitmasters don’t have to be the only ones doing their own inventing. However, to the shared benefit of all in Kansas City, so many pitmasters have nailed their inventions.
If the Legend of the Z-Man teaches us anything, it’s that sometimes the best combinations just come together on their own. And who knows? Do enough experimentation and maybe you’ll be the next person whose name ends up on a Kansas City icon.
Those Pesky Endnotes That I Often Insist Upon
* The only answer to the most iconic KC BBQ meal, in my opinion, has to include beef burnt ends and cheesy corn. Both are ubiquitous throughout the city, and are starting to creep into other cities, but both have origins that are definitively in Kansas City. Arthur Bryant’s burnt ends and Jack Stack’s cheesy corn helped put KC on the BBQ map! And then of course, you have to have a side or drizzle of sauce if you truly want to celebrate Kansas City’s unique spin on the craft.
^ To date, I have still not found another Kansas City BBQ joint that offers this particular cut regularly.
Did your favorite BBQ specialty sandwich in town make the cut? What’s your favorite place to go for a BBQ sandwich?
