Bar-V-Que
A NOTE FROM THE WRITER: disKCovery has declared this year to be “The Year of the Pit”. This is the latest installment of a wide selection of articles, essays, and rankings devoted to a year-long deep dive into Kansas City barbeque. This one differs a little bit because it is the only one to feature no meat. To see the rest of the 2Q23 series, click HERE.
Sights like this are a reminder that barbeque has never been friendly to those who don’t eat meat. A few places in KC are changing that. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Published October 6, 2023
On a surprisingly warm Thursday night in February, I was sipping on an Old Fashioned at Westport’s Char Bar. Having decided upon my order, I looked up and down the table and in that moment, I was content. I was enjoying a fantastic drink and knew that I was in for a similarly great meal; but those were secondary causes. I was happy because I knew I was with my people. My group. My squad. My tribe.
In that moment, I was reminded of what Wolfepack BBQ’s Sam Parker had told me on multiple occasions, “Barbeque is a community food.”
The pending nuptials of a pair in the group meant that this was the first time we had all been in the same state, let alone the same place, since before the pandemic. In fact, the growth of our little family in recent years made this the first time we were all truly together. So for this community to re-unite, in Kansas City, over barbeque; it just felt right.
And it was a memorable night, filled with laughs, joy, life updates, and of course, amazing food and drink. It was an unbelievably special meal.
But then, hours later, I realized that meal was special for a different reason. As an expert on Kansas City’s barbeque scene, I have been to over 110 Kansas City barbeque joints. In the past decade, I have eaten hundreds of barbeque meals. If a cut of meat can be smoked, I’ve tried it. And yet, I realized that on this night for the first, and only, time ever, I had an entire meal at a BBQ joint, without eating a single ounce of meat.
Appetizer, entrée, sides, and dessert without any beast, bird, or even fish to be found on the plate. For a carnivore like me, such is a rarity. For a barbeque fiend, it once felt like an impossibility. Not only had I enjoyed a marvelous, meatless, barbeque meal, but I was content. I could not have eaten another bite.
Fast forward about five weeks, and I was eating lunch at the Brown & Loe in Kansas City’s new airport. A group of us were having a conversation about Kansas City restaurants. Inevitably, we started talking about barbeque. And as I was peppered with questions about my likes and dislikes, my friend Lisa tried to stump me, “What if you’re a vegetarian? What’s a good barbeque spot?”
“... barbeque is a community food; and, not every member of every community eats meat. ”
I immediately recalled that night at Char Bar. I started telling Lisa all about how amazing the smoked jackfruit is and how she really needs to try it and how the cheesy hushpuppies are a must. I laid out how she could have a great, fully vegetarian barbeque meal from a premier KC BBQ joint. She appreciated the suggestion and then asked if I had any others. I mentioned one or two other spots but felt largely stumped.
”Wouldn’t you think that Kansas City would have more vegetarian barbeque options? Maybe you should do an article on that? I’ve never seen a good list.”
That question stuck with me. Of course, she was absolutely right. Barbeque is a craft that lends its way to creativity. But more than that, barbeque is a community food; and, not every member of every community eats meat.
In the United States, vegetarianism continues to grow in popularity. A number of faiths avoid meat at certain, or all, times of the year. Worldwide, nearly 22% of the population does not consume meat. So as vegetarianism does grow, and pitmasters flex their creative muscles, there are more options than ever for those who don’t eat meat, or those who just choose to abstain for a particular meal. Even still, bar-v-que options are relatively few and far between.
Sure there are a number of Kansas City barbeque spots where you can opt for a salad (Jack Stack and 3 Halves Brewing come to mind) or even offer tofu bowls and plant-based “meats” (Burnt End BBQ). There’s a couple more spots that have a black bean burger on the menu (such as Q39). Even more cater to the pescatarian crowd with fish options. There’s a large number where vegetarians can smartly navigate the list of side items, always weary that almost anything on a barbeque menu can include meat.
However, there are also a few select places that have risen to the challenge to provide those who are meatless a real taste of Kansas City. There are barbeque restaurants who have been quite intentional about making their menus more inclusive and providing meatless entrées. Veganism in barbeque continues to be a monumental hurdle to overcome but there are more and more vegetarian options all the time here in KC.
So in honor of Vegetarian Awareness Month, these are some places where you can go enjoy an authentic, meatless, Kansas City barbeque meal and feel just as content as I did on that Thursday night in February.
DISCLAIMER: Please be advised that this article is about vegetarian barbeque, not vegan barbeque. Even when an offering appears to be vegan, it may not be as animal products, such as butter, may be utilized in sauces or cooking process. Always ask before you order. Also, please be advised that restaurants are listed in alphabetical order. Their placement does not indicate a ranking but this handful of local barbeque joints do represent the best of Kansas City bar-v-que.
The Jackknife, with smoked jackfruit, from Char Bar is one of the city’s premier meatless barbeque sandwiches. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Char Bar Smoked Meats & Amusements
4050 Pennsylvania Avenue, Kansas City, Missouri
Any conversation about bar-v-que in Kansas City has to begin with Char Bar, as this one already has. In many ways, Char Bar sparked the advent of vegetarian barbeque in this city when they opened nearly ten years ago. Prior to Char Bar, there was a handful of vegetarian and vegan spots attempting subpar iterations of faux meat barbeque dishes. There were a few places that had “pivots” for iconic offerings, such as replacing the smoked meat in specialty sandwiches with fried side items, or just offering a meatless salad. What nobody was doing was offering a true, smoked, meatless entrée as a regular menu item. Then, Char Bar introduced many in this town to jackfruit.
It may seem odd that a tropical fruit would be one of the most common meat substitutes in barbeque but when smoked, jackfruit can have a consistency quite similar to pulled pork. Depending on the ripeness, it can also be quite savory. Mitch Benjamin, one of the driving forces behind Char Bar, and now Meat Mitch, explained in his book BBQ Revolution that making the best jackfruit sandwich that had ever been tasted was “our first order of business”. At Char Bar, they accomplished this with the Jackknife.
Smoked jackfruit is served on a toasty, but soft, egg bun and covered with melted provolone, topped with sliced avocado and fried jalapeños. To avoid cross-contamination with the meat, the jackfruit is prepared separately in a cold smoker. The result is a fruit that has a consistency that mimics pulled chicken and a flavor that best compares to pulled pork. It is incredibly both light and hearty. “It’s amazing,” Benjamin told me. “The first time I smoked it, I was skeptical but then when I pulled it and mixed it with my Meat Mitch WHOMP! Sauce and plated it on a bun, I was like ‘Holy ****, this isn’t real!” And while the “meat” may not be real, the unbelievable flavor absolutely is.
In addition, the Char Bar menu has a number of meatless sides and appetizers that are all marked on the menu with a skull and crossbones that leads the diner to a light-hearted and mischievous warning that said items “CONTAIN NO MEAT”.
So, What Do I Get? Kick things off with an order of the Cheesy Hushpuppies with jalapeño jam. They are one of the best appetizers in town and fully vegetarian. For the main course, a Jackknife sandwich (with jackfruit, not turkey) and either the Charred Cowboy Cauliflower or Cabbage Slaw is the way to go.
At F325, smoked jackfruit features in their salads but can also be ordered on a bun, topped with slaw, as seen here. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
F325 BBQ
1825 Buchanan Street, North Kansas City, Missouri
For years, James Huey operated F325 BBQ as a food truck. When him and his wife Lisa transitioned to a permanent storefront in Northtown last fall, she had one requirement for the new joint’s menu. “My wife was adamant that we have vegetarian options,” explained Huey. Lisa Huey recognized that there are people of varying dietary restrictions who still want to experience Kansas City’s iconic cuisine. She also understood group dining and family dining dynamics which would allow F325 to better serve a wider audience. As a result? F325 offers what is likely the most complete and robust line-up of smoked meatless entrées in the metro. Huey was the first to admit, “we definitely have customers who come here specifically for the vegetarian things we do.”
For Huey, it’s a trio of smoked entrées that anchor his bar-v-que menu. “I have my black bean burger which gives us a burger alternative. I make those in-house and control every ingredient that goes in them. The jackfruit gives us a pulled pork alternative and of course, the smoked Portobello takes the place of the brisket.” Not only is F325 selective of the ingredients that go in the Black Bean Burger, but prepare it separately to provide any cross-contamination with the meat patties. Huey understands the importance of this.
Both the smoked Portobello and the smoked jackfruit are available as a salad topper or a sandwich option. The Portobello is smoked to an internal temperature of 135 degrees. Unlike meat options, the Portobello is made to order as it can’t be held on the line and be expected to maintain its ideal texture. The smoked jackfruit is sauced and well seasoned. The key, as Huey explains it is “you want unripened jackfruit” explaining that as the jackfruit gets riper, the sweeter it gets and thus, unfit for barbeque. The other factor, “you have to crush the seed pods up” in order to achieve the desired consistency. Offered on the menu as a salad topper, this publication strongly recommends it topped with slaw on a toasted brioche bun. The creamy crunchy slaw works in perfect contrast to the rub in the jackfruit. The textures and flavors make it incredibly easy to forget you are eating a vegetarian entrée unless you consciously think about it.
So, What Do I Get? A starter of the Kickin’ Pickles is a must The fried slices are served with a house barbeque ranch and are incredibly popular. While not technically offered on the menu, ask for a smoked jackfruit sandwich topped with slaw as the main course. They will make it for you. As for the sides, no trip to F325 is complete with the Whiskey Sweet Potato Casserole. Mashed sweet potatoes with a crispy, crunchy topping it is part side, part dessert, and wholly delicious.
Joe’s Z-Man may be the most iconic sandwich in the metro. However, a closer look will reveal that this version doesn’t have brisket, but smoked Portobello. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que
3002 W. 47th Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
As far as Kansas City barbeque vegetarian “pivots” go, Joe’s Kansas City once had the most well-known. Over a decade ago, it an open secret among the meatless crowd that, if asked, Joe’s would replace the sliced brisket on their iconic Z-Man sandwich with a scoop of coleslaw. On a few occasions, I even saw their famous fries used as a brisket substitute in the sandwich. And while it was perhaps the best meatless entrée option at a Kansas City BBQ joint at that time, it wasn’t really barbeque. It was a lackluster placeholder to placate the meatless crowd. Then, a few years back, Joe’s found a lasting solution for the vegetarians.
Jerry Taylor, Executive General Manager of Joe’s, tells me, “We had been running the Soft Shell Crab Po Boy for Lent. We added the Impossible Z-Man to kind of test the waters for a vegetarian option to permanently add to the menu year-round but it didn’t really take off. So, we introduced the Portobello Z-Man to run through Lent with the Po Boy.” Much like the original sandwich, the Portobello Z-Man features melted Provolone cheese, a topper of crispy onion rings, and Joe’s sauce on a toasty Kaiser roll. The difference is that the brisket is subbed out for long slices of oak-smoked Portobello Mushroom. The texture, richness, and meatiness of the mushroom make it an ideal replacement. Much like the original, this version has a flavor that is impeccable.
Originally, ran as a Lenten special, and then a “Meatless Mondays” promotion, Joe’s found that much like the original sandwich’s early days, the Portobello Z-Man had a fervent following. “It definitely seemed to appeal to the masses,” Taylor recalls. Soon enough, it became a regular part of the menu. Now, when people in Kansas City have a conversation about inclusive barbeque menus, nearly every meatless person knows about the Portobello Z. Taylor assured me that, “It has been a great addition to the Z-Man family.”
So, What Do I Get? The Z-Man is the most iconic sandwich in all of Kansas City and the Portobello Z-Man does a great job of capturing the character, textures, and select flavor notes of the original. When it comes to the sides, it’s all about Joe’s Famous Fries. Although, the Dirty Rice and Red Beans & Rice are dramatically underrated.
As a side dish, or a vegetarian entrée, there is nothing quite like the Sweet Potato Burnt Ends at Harp. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Harp Barbecue
6633 Raytown Road, Raytown, Missouri
In many ways, Tyler Harp is responsible for bringing the notion of “craft barbeque” to Kansas City. Harp Barbecue’s Texas-inspired meat and artisan sides represent a commitment to the highest of quality. This standard created the kind of cult-following that allowed the business to grow from humble driveway enterprise to brewery weekend pop-up to operating for the past year as a standalone restaurant on Raytown Road. Over time, Harp and his team have developed a reputation for quality but for challenging the notion of what Kansas CIty barbeque can be, and doing so in the most delicious fashion.
After all, who else would think to combine blueberries and white cheddar in a smoked sausage? Or to cover, pork belly burnt ends in a rich butterscotch sauce to create something sinfully savory, salty, smoky, and sweet? And who in their right mind would think to take Kansas City’s quintessential contribution to barbeque, the burnt end, and source it from a sweet potato? Nobody but Tyler Harp.
“We wanted vegetarians to be able to get a meal they liked at a barbeque place,” Harp explained. That belief led Harp to intentionally exclude meat from his side dishes, which is not as obvious as it may sound. Cheesy corns rife with ham, bacon-packed mac ‘n cheeses and potato salads, and pit beans filled with every meat scrap imagineable are the norm. In Kansas City barbeque, even the collared greens and Brussel sprouts may contain meat. So Harp’s approach is an unusual deviation. While technically, he smoked chunks of sweet potato with a crispy bark, fantastic glaze, and a garnish of cilantro are a meatless side dish, they definitely hit the mark as a bar-v-que entrée as well.
The transition from an advance-order pop-up to a brick and mortar restaurant brought changes as the business model had to adapt. Unfortunately, the Sweet Potato Burnt Ends have become a recent casualty of this shift. “In the new restaurant, we could never make the right amount,” Harp confesses. But the burnt ends gave way to a new, popular mashed sweet potato side that captures many of the same flavors. But even Harp is aware of their popularity admitting that, “We still get asked about them all the time” and even hinted that there’s a chance return as an occasional special in the future. This writer can only hope.
Still, any combination of Harp’s meatless sides is sure to be a filling, satisfying meal.
So, What Do I Get? If and when they do return as a special, the Sweet Potato Burnt Ends are a staple. Even if not available as a burnt end, Harp’s work with sweet potatoes is magical. So order whatever they’re doing with them Twice Baked Potato Salad, Cheesy Corn, some Banana Pudding for dessert? It’s hard to go wrong at a place this choice.
Jazzy B’s offers an entirely vegetarian section to their menu. Many of the entreees, like the Bruschetta Sandwich, feature smoked Portobello mushroom. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Jazzy B’s Diner
320 SW Blue Parkway, Lee’s Summit, Missouri
Lee’s Summit’s Jazzy B’s stands apart from other BBQ joints in that they specifically segment out a vegetarian portion of the menu. Much like F325, Jazzy B’s began as a food truck prior to both iterations as a storefront. “I was doing events all over Kansas City,” owner Brandon Simpson told me, “And I would end up at events with a large percentage of vegetarians and I would have nothing for them. So I was missing out on a lot of revenue.” Initially, his response was his own take on the grilled cheese, which became so popular that diners would routinely ask to get it made with meat. Quickly, the former college defensive lineman recognized the need for a “meaty non-meat option” as cheese isn’t always an option and “someone might not be happy with just a salad.”
His solution? Smoked Portobello mushrooms, which allowed him to use the caps as an alternative to both briskets and burgers in his menu. The smoked, beefy mushroom features in a number of Jazzy B’s offerings. Both the Bella Burger and Smoked Black Bean Burger have a patty that is made in-house and utilizes the mushroom. The Bella Tacos, which feature the smoked mushroom and pico, are a rarely found smoked vegan option. The most popular Portobello order though may just be the Bruschetta Sandwich. Originally just tomatoes, mozzarella, greens, and vinaigrette on a brioche bun, the sandwich now features a smoked Portobello cap underneath it all. “So many people were asking to add Portobello to the sandwich that we just made it standard,” Simpson told me. He also conceded that it does a much better job of filling the oversized brioche bun.
While Simpson could have never seen it coming, Jazzy B’s status as a place that offers bar-v-que has aided in their growth as much as anything. During the height of the pandemic, a number of vegetarian families regularly ordering his smoked Portobello entrées was a huge help to the business in a trying time. Today, Simpson takes pride in how inclusive his menu is. “Jazzy B’s is a place that all families can come and enjoy a meal together, no matter the dietary restriction or preference.”
So, What Do I Get? Go for the Adult Grilled Cheese and pay the upcharge to get it made with smoked Portobello mushroom. The sandwich is a hit! As for the sides, the Garlic Cheesy Corn and the Apple Jicama Slaw are fantastic. The Bruschetta Sandwich is unlike any other in town. The Jazzy Fries are different than most in the usage of cinnamon in the seasoning but that flair makes them quite special. For vegan diners, the Bella Tacos are the obvious play.
Always pushing the envelope of what barbeque can be, Wolfepack offers a smoked Portobello mushroom sandwich. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Wolfepack BBQ
910 E. 5th Street, Kansas City, Missouri
Last year when I wrote about Wolfepack BBQ, I gushed over the spirit of innovation at the heart of everything they do. They never stop experimenting and asking the question of what Kansas City barbeque can be, instead of what it is. In the past year alone, Wolfepack has rolled out barbeque sauces with a pumpkin base and a hatch green chile version. There’s always something new on the menu that nobody else is doing. “Sometimes it’s just a matter of something being available and we get a chance to play with it and see what we can make,” Sam Parker told me. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that prioritizing a delicious vegetarian option would be key to their menu. “We know that we need to have a real barbeque option vegetarians can enjoy,” Jared Wolfe explained. It was for that reason that from the very first day, their new restaurant’s menu included a smoked Portobello mushroom sandwich.
“We marinate the mushroom in our own blend of herbs and spices before we smoke it and top it with onion, peppers, and red onion,” Wolfe explained. Piled high on a Roma bun this may be the most gargantuan of Kansas City’s bar-v-que entrées. For a place known for brisket, it makes sense that the default brisket substitute is that to which Wolfepack would gravitate. As the Columbus Park joint establishes their own brand and even tweaks the menu, one thing seems to be very clear. “We’re going to have something for vegetarians,” Wolfe reassures me, “you have to.” In our conversation, Wolfe even hinted that using a different breed of mushroom may be in the future, or even a vegetarian burnt end. After cracking this publication’s list of the top burnt ends in the city, we hope they do take a run at a meatless version.
So, What Do I Get? Of course, the Portobello Mushroom Sandwich is the play. But I would not hesitate to sample any entrée that uses mushroom to mimic brisket at this joint. When offered the Hot Honey Sweet Potato Salad is truly special, incorporating sweet potato, hatch chilis, and mango into a potato salad that has a fruit salad feel with some street corn flair. On that note, the Street Corn, and Coleslaw are also great sides. Whatever you do, just enjoy all the house-made pickles and pickled onions you can with every meal!
What makes a meal special is more often about the people we share it with than what we actually eat. But there is no reason that what we consume and the company we keep cannot be exceptional for all.
Here in the World Capital of BBQ, it is only natural to flock to our pits to enjoy a great meal. After all, barbeque IS a community food. But sadly, our most well-known culinary genre has not always been the most inclusive in their offerings. Barbeque is a food best enjoyed by a community, so it only fits that it would have something for every member of a community. Luckily, there are a handful of barbeque joints who are doing something to ensure that is the case.
These pitmasters have made a conscious decision to make sure that those who do not eat meat, or are just abstaining for a time, can still enjoy the full flavors of Kansas City. There are places who realize that an inclusive menu, including meatless options, only grows the audience for what this city does best. And this carnivore, for one could not be more excited.
Now there are many who will scoff at the notion and say that vegetarian barbeque is an oxymoron. Or might even go as far as saying that including bar-v-que among my annual collection on Kansas City barbeque makes me a moron.
A few years back, when the Portobello Z-Man came out, Jeff Stehney, founder of Joe’s Kansas City, told Flatland KC that the sandwich was, “probably an item that we owed the public for a long time.” He wasn’t wrong. Coleslaw on a bun was not cutting it, and neither were side salads.
As F325’s Lisa Huey realized, it’s not just about those who eat meat, but who may be joining them. Jazzy B’s Brandon Simpson recognized that offering bar-v-que options was a way to stand out in a crowded scene. It sent a message that his BBQ joint was a place for all families.
And from its roots, that is what Kansas City barbeque has always been about. From the earliest days of Henry Perry’s pushcart to the craft pop-ups of today, barbeque in this city has always served to transcend all perceived divides and rally people of all walks together around great food. That is a tradition that these six restaurants proudly continue today.
While the notion of vegetarian barbeque may upset some, I would only ask, “What’s the harm?” This city is already the greatest place on earth for BBQ, why not allow us to grow into a destination for top-flight BVQ as well?
Beginning a conversation about vegetarian barbeque once seemed daunting, but my friend Lisa’s reaction when I told her this article was coming makes it clear that only good can come from this. And knowing that, I am content.
Happy Vegetarian Awareness Month! Whether you are meatless by lifestyle, or just on occasion, what vegetarian barbeque option is your favorite in town? Is there one you feel I unfairly skipped? Let me hear it in the comments!
