Q in the Lou
A NOTE FROM THE WRITER: disKCovery has declared this year to be “The Year of the Pit”. This is the latest installment of a wide selection of articles, essays, and rankings devoted to a year-long deep dive into Kansas City barbeque. This is a one-time deviation into another Missouri city’s BBQ scene. To see the rest of the 2Q23 series, click HERE.
Four hours east of Kansas City lies St. Louis, Missouri. And while they cannot compare to the World Capital of BBQ, “The Lou” is a barbeque city in its own right. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Published September 27, 2023
In 2020, a Twitter* user asked Kansas City’s own Jason Kander, a bestselling author and former Missouri Secretary of State, for the “best BBQ place in St. Louis”. In true Cowtowner fashion he responded, “Ok, it’s a little off the beaten path, but totally worth it. Get on I-70, drive west for 4 hours. As soon as your radio starts picking up KC radio stations clearly, exit the highway anywhere. The first bbq joint you see is the best bbq joint in STL.”
Suffice to say, here in Kansas City, we take a lot of pride in our barbeque. More than sports allegiances or political party, it is your barbeque of choice that defines you in this town. To many here, the Art of Low ‘n Slow borders on religion. Even the slightest mention of the city across the state as a barbeque city, can feel blasphemous. It is only natural for most Kansas Citians to scoff at the notion.
Jason Kander’s tweet in 2020 poured gas on the longstanding Internet feud between Missouri’s two largest cities.
And yet, St. Louis does promote themselves as a barbeque destination, even though, nationally, they do not consistently have that reputation. Sure, St. Louis gets a lot of love for their signature style of trimming spare ribs. Many even make the mistake of falsely correlating the popularity of a butcher’s cut to barbeque prowess. But outside of River City, this one cut of ribs is where the association with barbeque tends to end.
Every once in a while, someone makes mention of Maull’s Barbecue Sauce and their fairly legitimate claim of being the nation’s first commercially available barbeque sauce. They love Maull’s, and barbeque sauce, so much in St. Louis that it has been reported by multiple sources that St. Louis consumes more barbeque sauce per capita than any other American city. The city’s love affair with barbeque is quite apparent.
Being situated halfway between Kansas City and Memphis, many in St. Louis believe their city to be as much of a barbeque town as either one of their neighbors. Most feel that their city is unfairly overlooked in this culinary regard.
Knowing what I risk by saying it, this Fountain City Foodie will tell you, they actually do have a leg to stand on here. It is foolish to think that a city that is firmly in the middle of an agricultural heartland and situated between two barbeque meccas would be some kind of smoked meat desert.
When it comes to St. Louis, the best way to think of barbeque is like soccer. For starters, St. Louis sits four hours to the east of America’s capital for both. They’re both an artform that takes patience and great skill. They both begin with a pit(ch), bring people together, and are nothing short of beautiful.
Much like soccer, St. Louis does have an early 20th century connection to barbeque but the connection between that bygone era and barbeque as it exists in the modern day is rather disjointed. Additionally, the bulk of St. Louis’ participation from a professional or commercial standpoint is rather recent. And yet? What St. Louis has accomplished in barbeque in such a relatively short time is rather remarkable.
The truth is that barbeque is alive and well in St. Louis. While none can compare to the World Capital of Barbeque in terms of volume and stature, STL also has no need to. In terms of quality and quantity of options, the city boasts a scene as robust as almost any other barbeque city.
Oftentimes, we do not think of St. Louis this way. In part, it is because there are things beyond barbeque for which they are better known. Partly, it’s the aforementioned geographic location. Since their style draws from both Kansas City and Memphis, they often struggle to differentiate themselves enough from either. St. Louis’ take is unique but because of their hybrid nature, they still tend to get lost in the shuffle of better-known and more distinctive regional styles.
For example, the barbeque sauces which they love so much tend to very much be a first cousin to Kansas City’s in terms of flavor and consistency. One key place they differ is the tangy element that is traditionally found in an STL sauce. Where Kansas City tends to have that note of molasses on the back end, traditional St. Louis style opts for hint of vinegar. The use of Memphis-style rubs has become more common in St. Louis in recent years, but these rubs have a tendency to possess a sweetness you will not find in Tennessee. The diversity of high-end restaurants, grungy joints, strip-mall eateries, food trucks, and hole-in-the-wall meat counters is reminiscent of Kansas City. As is the tradition of serving barbeque with white bread to sop up the excess sauce.
While most would associate St. Louis with ribs, it is another cut of pork, the shoulder blade steak, that sets this city apart from any other region. Pork steaks are a way of life in St. Louis and whether they are sauced or rubbed, barbeque provides an avenue for their ideal preparation. Nobody else is doing this. Another unique cut of the pig, the snoot (taken from the pig’s nose / snout) is another meat that can be found at St. Louis BBQ joints but not often seen anywhere else.
Another reason for the perceived disrespect that St. Louis barbeque endures has to do with the recency of their accomplishments. This is a city in the midst of a barbeque renaissance that has not been felt far beyond their own borders. Ask a St. Louisan for their favorite barbeque joint and it is more than likely a place that did not exist 15 years ago. There is no reason that the youth of their scene should diminish the quality. It’s that youth that, to the chagrin of many St. Louisans, keeps this city one of America’s best-kept barbeque secrets.
So the next time you make your way down I-70 from Kansas City, or if you are a St. Louis local, these are some of my favorite barbeque joints to frequent when I pop into Nelly’s hometown.
The Well-Fed Beast from Beast Craft BBQ Co. includes pulled pork, brisket, rib tips, and kielbasa. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Beast Craft BBQ Co.
20 S. Belt W., Belleville, Illinois
David and Meggan Sandusky launched Beast Craft BBQ Co. in late 2014. As the name implies, the Belleville eatery serves up craft barbeque for the most beast-like of appetites. While Beast Craft’s standalone location on the eastern edge of the metro represents a bit of a drive for the downtown and suburban Missouri crowd; the commute is undoubtedly worth it. Diners and press alike seem to agree. Since opening their doors more than a decade ago, David Sandusky and the restaurant have received local and national praise.
It all begins with a St. Louis staple, the pork steak. In many ways, the pork steak is what put Beast Craft on the map and its reputation is what inspired me to visit Belleville in the first place. It’s fair to say that the hype is deserved. The shoulder steak is a super thick cut that is well over an inch thick. It is coated with an amber-colored rub that is smoky, peppery, and sweet. The meat is so tender that it can be pulled apart but cooked so precisely that it maintains the ideal firmness. The bark and the glaze give the exterior an almost gummy quality that gives way to perfectly smoked, rose quartz chunks of wonderfully rich pork. This offering is uniquely St. Louis and it is hard to imagine anyone doing it better than Beast.
The Sweet & Spicy Melt at Beast Craft BBQ Co. is heaven stuffed between two griddled slices of sourdough. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Beast Craft offers a variety of sauce options. While the steak does not require any sauce, the “Signature Vinegar” is a slam dunk here. The fusion of tangy Carolina vinegar and smoky Kansas City goodness makes for a very special blend. Not only is it ideal for the steak but for any cut of pork. With pork belly, pulled pork, rib tips, and kielbasa on the menu, there is a load of fantastic pork options for this sauce. They also serve a Texas-style sliced brisket, smoked chicken, and a marvelous smoked turkey.
Speaking of the turkey, I got lucky on my very first visit. My host made a recommendation before letting me explore the menu on my own. “Since you said you want what we do best, get the Sweet & Spicy Turkey Melt. That sandwich will make you see God.” With an endorsement like that, I would have been crazy to ignore her. Even crazier? I think she may have undersold it! The thick slices of turkey are so smoky and tender. The candied bacon is crisp and sweet. The sourdough, melted Swiss, candied jalapeños, and smoked Mayo hit so many flavor profiles and texture notes, and it all just works. I do not know why anyone would ever visit Belleville without getting their hands on this sandwich.
Beast Craft BBQ Co. accompanies their line-up of smoked meats and sandwiches with a wide array of southern style sides. While the Bacon Mac & Cheese, Southern Slaw, and Pit Beans deserve some love, it’s the Sprouts w/ Belly that are the must-order of the sides. The texture of the sprouts is ideal with crispy edges that give a nice crunch and a softly ripe interior. The fire-kissed flavor greets and a pinch of salt follows on the back of every bite. A topper of the decadent pork belly puts this side over the top.
The Sanduskys’ mantra of “All Killer, No Filler” is something that they achieve daily. While Beast Craft BBQ Co. should be a destination for any barbeque lover, those near downtown are in luck! Beast Craft also offers their pork steak sandwiches at a stand inside of St. Louis City’s stadium.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? Do yourself a favor and get the Sweet & Spicy Turkey Melt. This is one of the better BBQ specialty sandwiches you will ever find. The construction is just impeccable. While it comes standard with fries (and the fry sauce is phenomenal), add on an order of the sprouts w/ belly. You’ll thank me later! If you want to go the smoked meats route, Beast Craft BBQ Co. offers a variety of mixed plates and samplers. Of these, the Duroc Tour which includes the pork steak, pork belly, and kielbasa, is the best option. The pork steak and pork belly are the best meats! Beyond the sprouts, the bacon mac & cheese is incredibly popular and has been recognized locally.
HOURS: Sunday - Saturday 11am - 9pm
WEBSITE: www.beastcraftbbq.com
Both Navin’s BBQ and the best sandwich on the menu, The JERK, take their name from the famed Steve Martin film. Shown here is The JERK with a side of mac & cheese. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Navin’s BBQ
3559 Arsenal Street, St. Louis, Missouri
EDITOR’S NOTE: Shortly after publication of this article, seven hours to be exact, Navin’s BBQ unfortunately announced a permanent closure of their Arsenal Street location, effective within 24 hours. Sadly, in our goal to spread the gospel of barbeque, we only had 24 hours to raise the profile of what was an innovative BBQ joint. Few in barbeque are doing what Navin’s has done. The closure of Navin’s BBQ is a huge loss to the St. Louis barbeque community. We hope that this is not the last we have seen of them or their amazing recipes.
In The Jerk (1979), Steve Martin plays the zany simpleton Navin Johnson who leaves his adopted family behind and heads to St. Louis in pursuit of the American Dream. This is the inspiration behind the name of Navin’s BBQ, a Tower Grove East barbeque eatery that seats fewer than 20. Opened in 2021, Navin’s BBQ was born of the competition circuit and is best-described as “craft barbeque”. Navin’s owner Chris Armstrong strikes a balance between the Texas and Kansas City traditions, and adds just enough of his own flair, to make this a spot that is uniquely St. Louis.
Navin’s BBQ isn’t shy about the name’s origin. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Before you even step foot in the building, the sweet smell of hickory and apple smoke waft through the air. Entering the counter-service joint, it has a real intimate, neighborhood hole-in-the-wall kind of feel. The menu is simple to navigate and the service is friendly, prompt, and overall exceptional. A haven for specialty sandwiches, the first two on the menu (The JERK and the ShiNOLA) have names inspired by the movie. The JERK Is marvelous. When it comes to barbeque, pulled chicken is a rare bird (pun ABSOLUTELY intended) and Navin’s crushes this. Perfectly pulled, tender, and smoky chicken is tossed in a well-spiced jerk-style rub. A topper of creamy, yet crunchy, jalapeño slaw, pepper cheese, candied bacon, crispy onion rings and white barbeque sauce pulls the whole thing together.
Both a la carte appetizers are incredibly popular. The smoked chicken wings carry a fantastic mix of sweet and heat and the Texas Twinkie (a bacon-wrapped jalapeño stuffed with smoked brisket and cream cheese) is a delightful mess.
Additionally, Navin’s features a hefty line-up of smoked meats. They like to brag about their Texas-style brisket and their Kansas City-inspired beef burnt ends (and rightfully so!) but the real star is the pork belly burnt ends. For lack, or need, of a better word, this pork belly is perfect. It has a nice, flavorful bark with the right amount of chewiness. The cut has the right amount of fat and lean. The light glaze gives this a savory sweetness that works in concert with the smoky chunks. It’s decadent and wonderful; a true meat candy.
They have the sides to complement their sandwiches and entrees. Most notable among them is the mac & cheese. The mixture of hearty, gooey cheese sauce with stiff rigatoni noodles is only made better by the sprinkling of crushed FLAMIN’ HOT Cheetos on top. The Sweet Heat Slaw and the Mashed Potato Salad are similarly well-made.
Best of all? Navin’s offers all of their meats by the quarter, half, and full pound. All of their sides and appetizers are available a la carte. That means beyond a great menu and fantastic service, Navin’s offers the kind of menu flexibility that foodies crave.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? It’s all about the titular sandwich, The JERK. I have never had a sandwich at a barbeque joint quite like this one. It’s very special. As for the sides, get yourself a Texas Twinkie and some of the mac & cheese. Although, it may just be better to get yourself a quarter pound of that life-changing pork belly burnt ends. Hey, this is barbeque. Whether the pork belly is the entrée, side, or a dessert is up to you!
HOURS: Wednesday 11am - 3pm | Thursday - Saturday 11am - 7pm | CLOSED SUNDAY - TUESDAY
WEBSITE: www.navinsbbq.com
Beyond just the St. Louis-style cut, Pappy’s Smokehouse proves that St. Louis can put out some great ribs as well. Pappy’s spare ribs are some of the best in the nation. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Pappy’s Smokehouse^
3106 Olive Street, St. Louis, Missouri
It is virtually impossible to discuss St. Louis barbeque without Pappy’s Smokehouse entering the conversation. Since they burst onto the scene in 2008, Pappy’s has been seen as The Gateway City’s preeminent BBQ joint. While it quickly gained favor among locals, an appearance on the first season of Man v. Food in early 2009, propelled the fledgling restaurant to national fame. Since then, Pappy’s has continued to be a favorite among locals and a destination for foodies across America. Pappy’s has been featured nationally on television and in publications as it is considered one of the best barbeque restaurants in the nation, and home to some of America’s best ribs.
And really, that is where any talk about Pappy’s must begin - their pork spare ribs. They like to bill their delectable slabs, and all of their barbeque, as done in the Memphis style. This is a disservice to the greatness of their slabs. Respectfully, nowhere in Memphis is capable of producing a rack as fine as this. The bones are thick and meaty with a black cherry colored bark and deep pink smoke ring. The meat has the perfect texture. It’s firm enough that it needs a tug off the bone, and has some needed chew. However, it is also so delicate that the meat melts exactly as it should. The dry rub is flavorful but subtle enough to sit back and let the pork do the talking. This is one of the very best slabs in America. These are definitely the best rack of spare ribs in the Show Me State.
My love affair with Pappy’s fried corn on the cob began in 2009. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
This is more than a place for ribs. There’s not a single weak spot on the entire menu. As far as the other meats go, the smoked chicken is the best of the rest. The chunks of boneless, rosy white meat chicken are coated with a marvelous rub. Somehow, the meat is bold, smoky, and still moist. It’s just flawless. The flavor, moisture, and texture are so consummate that all you really need is the meat and the bun. However, if you did want to throw one of Pappy’s sauces on that sando, particularly the Hoodoo, nobody would blame you.
When a place is elite like Pappy’s, it’s not only because they excel at smoking meats, but because they have the sides to match. Allow me to reiterate that there are no weak spots in this menu. All the sides are fantastic. The sweet potato fries and potato salad are outstanding. The real show-stoppers are the baked beans and the fried corn on the cob. The beans are so meaty. There’s a tangy, smokehouse flavor that sticks with you but what you will remember is just how much meat is crammed into these beans. As for the fried corn on the cob? There’s nothing else quite like it. The flash fried cob is so spongy and delicious. The freshness of the sweet corn really shines through in this one-of-a-kind treat.
Pappy’s Smokehouse is the first barbeque spot that should be on anyone’s list in St. Louis. Beyond operating their original flagship location, Pappy’s has a second location in St. Peter’s that opened in 2020. Additionally, the Pappy’s family also includes Adam’s Smokehouse, Bogart’s Smokehouse, Dalie’s Smokehouse, and Southern. They are all differing concepts that bring the quality Pappy’s is known for. The apricot-glazed ribs from Bogart’s are an especially sweet and tangy treat. Leave no doubt about it, this is the royal family of St. Louis barbeque and it all begins with their pappy.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? If you have three to four people, The Big Ben is a great way to go for a very affordable price. This massive platter features a full slap of the amazing ribs as well as a brisket sandwich, pulled pork sandwich, and some of the delectable smoked chicken on a bun. Additionally, it includes four sides. Just make sure that the fried corn on the cob and the baked beans are two of those sides! Go for The “Adam” Bomb (in honor of Adam Richman from Man v. Food), to get The Big Ben with a Hot Link Frito Pie added. No matter what you get, the ribs and fried Corn are an absolute must.
HOURS: Wednesday - Sunday 11am - SELLOUT | CLOSED MONDAY & TUESDAY
WEBSITE: www.pappyssmokehouse.com
Salt + Smoke’s Bestie Combo with St. Louis cut ribs, brisket, smoked wings, creamed corn, and beef fat fries. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Salt + Smoke^
6525 Delmar Boulevard, St. Louis, Missouri
Located near the doorstep of the prestigious Washington University, Salt + Smoke has been a mainstay of the St. Louis barbeque scene for nearly a decade. In such a short amount of time, the sustainable, community-forward eatery has grown beyond their original location in the Delmar Loop to include locations in Ballpark Village, Ellisville, Hampton, and St. Charles. Additionally, they operate two of their “Oh Hey!” concepts inside of the Schnucks grocery stores in Crestwood and Kirkwood.
Known for their Texas-inspired meats and variety of house-made sauces, Salt + Smoke serves up a wide-ranging menu that also includes Southern-style appetizers, mouthwatering sandwiches, delicious salads, mouthwatering sandwiches, side dishes with a comfort food flair, and decadent desserts. Additionally, the restaurant is known for their robust bar program.
Most notable, is that Salt + Smoke may be the most allergen-friendly barbeque joint that you will ever find. They are very intentional about both calling out the specific allergens present in their dishes in the menu, and offering solutions for those with allergies. This degree of flexibility is rarely found in barbeque, or restaurants in general. This spirit of inclusiveness and willingness to cater to the needs of diners, provides a glimpse into the caring, customer-first attitude that Salt + Smoke is known for.
Seriously, you have to try the fried bologna! PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
That same flexibility extends to the menu offerings where the platters and meal options make it incredibly easy for customers to mix-and-match, and try a little bit of everything. The smoked wings are a common appetizer choice and an option for any of their “Bestie Combos”. They are large, well-smoked, and can be served naked or tossed in a signature sauce. While the “I Can’t Even” is a popular sauce choice for this, if you are spice-averse, you probably will not be able to even. The St. Louis cut ribs are well-made. While they are on the softer end of the acceptable spectrum for a spare rib, the chewiness and flavor of the park, as well as the quality of the cut, more than makes up for it. Getting three to four of these bones on any plate is a fantastic value. The brisket is perhaps the most interesting of the meats. It’s quite excellent. While the texture and flavor profile scream, “Texas!”, it is actually served chunked, as opposed to sliced, as if to resemble a Kansas City burnt end. While this is not a burnt end per say, it is still quite a delightful cube of brisket. The pulled pork receives similarly high marks.
The real star of the smoked meat line-up is the bologna. Yes, you read that correctly. The fried jalapeño and cheddar bologna is unlike any meat being served up by any other barbeque joint anywhere. Pitmaster Haley Riley combines brisket and pork shoulder trimmings with milk, seasonings, cheddar cheese, and jalapeño pieces. Once formed into a loaf and encased, the bologna is slow-smoked over cherry wood. It is then thick sliced and pan-seared. While the bologna is available as a meat in any meal, it is most popularly served on a butter-toasted brioche bun with sweet grain mustard and chow-chow (a relish of onion, pepper, and cabbage). The mix of tangy, sweetness from the mustard, vinegary crunch from the chow-chow, and smoky spice from the bologna makes this sandwich a must.
It takes a certain balance of insanity, innovation, and confidence to pull something like this off on a barbeque menu. And yet? Salt + Smoke takes this approach to their entire menu line-up. Their side dish line-up, anchored by the beef fat fries, pit beans, white cheddar cracker mac, and cheesy-style, seasoned creamed corn are similarly unique. And what may seem crazy to anyone else, works time and time again for Salt + Smoke. Their combined mastery of the pit and willingness to push the envelope of what barbeque can be, is a big part of why they have blown up so quickly.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? I kid you not, it’s all about the fried jalapeño and cheddar bologna sandwich. You will not have a chance to have anything like this, anywhere else. As for a second meat, the brisket, served cubed, is really fantastic. As for the sides? The beef fat fries are a must. The soft-fried potatoes are mealy with a nice crisp and an after-taste reminiscent of garlic salt. The creamed corn is soupy but so wonderful. The best way to describe it is as a Kansas City cheesy corn but with some added flair. There’s a light kiss of sweet heat that makes this side quite nice. Also, be sure to sample the entire line-up of terrific house-made sauces!
HOURS: Sunday - Thursday 11am - 9pm | Friday - Saturday 11am - 10pm
WEBSITE: www.saltandsmokebbq.com
A 3 Meat Combo with with brisket, ribs, pulled pork, potato salad, and fries from Sugarfire Smoke House. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Sugarfire Smoke House^
9200 Olive Boulevard #114, Olivette, Missouri
As a city, St. Louis finds itself on the boundary between the South and the Midwest. Uniquely positioned between Memphis and Kansas City, Sugarfire Smoke House is not shy about drawing inspiration from each, and then adding their own STL spin. Similar to Salt + Smoke, Sugarfire has not been around all that long but they have seen rapid growth. Their original location in Olivette only opened in 2012. But, in that short amount of time, Sugarfire has rapidly exploded to include nine additional locations in the metro, as well as another in Springfield, Missouri, and then another each in Iowa and Colorado!
What really sets Sugarfire apart is their commitment to both aspects of their name. The “fire” of course, a reference to the St. Louis barbeque that draws influence from Texas, Memphis, Kansas City, and the Carolinas. The “sugar” references the idea that “savory cooked meat is best paired with a tasty treat”. This unique blend of culinary experiences, and commitment to this ideal, led to a restaurant that is as much a destination for top-notch barbeque as it is for out-of-this-world desserts. There’s quite the selection of dessert options at Sugarfire but this place is primarily known for their assortment of pies, and their pie shakes. The latter is exactly what it sounds like. Sugarfire takes an entire slice of a pie of your choice and blends it into a milkshake. While it is hard to save room for dessert whilst enjoying barbeque, doing so is a must at Sugarfire.
Of course it is not only the dessert menu that is robust. Sugarfire does not shy away from the options for their smoked meats. A large selection of specialty sandwiches, salads, platters, and a la carte options makes it easy for diners to have the type of dining experience they want. Granted, the options can be a bit overwhelming.
The Fried Chicken Biscuit at Sugarfire is a must. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
For starters, whatever is ordered, should always include a side of the house fries. Typically, when it comes to many places fries are just fries. However, the handcut fries at Sugarfire are perfect. They’re the right amount of crisp with a fluffy, mealy center. The pinch of saltiness is the exact amount needed and there’s a nice oil flavor without being greasy or taking away from the potato’s integrity. The added bonus of ordering the fries is that they are the ideal mechanism for trying the entire spectrum of sauces. White, yellow, red, and brown, Sugarfire typically boasts a line-up of six to eight sauces of all colors, flavors, and regional styles. Fries are fantastic for exploration.
As far as the meats go, the brisket is the heavy-hitter. Picturesque with a soft black bark and a perfect rosy red smoke ring, it is mind-blowing that it tastes even better than it looks. The balance of lean and fat is seamless. Good, deep smoky flavor and a rich, beefy flavor come together in the medium-thickness strips. The pulled pork is a close second. The chunks of smoked pork are tender, smoky, and sweet. Like the brisket, the bark is everything a diner could ask for. The smoked salmon and babyback ribs are also fantastic options here.
As great as all these choices are, the one thing that must be ordered here is the fried chicken biscuit. A piece of chicken breast is smoked, then breaded and fried, before being tossed in a house hot sauce. It is then served up on a buttery scratch-made buttermilk biscuit with some extra honey butter for good measure. The biscuit is both moist and crumbles in all the right ways. The sauce’s heat is perfectly countered by the honey’s sweet. The breading is light, crisp, and flavorful. The chicken is moist and after frying and tossing, managing to holds on to that smoky flavor. This is a special sandwich, and not one you expect to find in the world of barbeque.
And yet, that’s kind of what you get with Sugarfire Smoke House. They borrow from a number of influence to deliver new flavors that are uniquely St. Louis. They create combinations and bring different traditions together to constantly serve up a number of items that you wouldn’t expect to find at a BBQ joint. However, once you do find them, you will always be glad you did.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? Both appetizers are incredibly popular . The Smoked Fried Artichokes and Pork Belly Hush Puppies are both something you likely won’t find anywhere else! If you’re in the mood for a sandwich, it’s hard to beat the Fried Chicken Biscuit. For the smoked meats, the brisket is king. They have a couple of great sandwiches that feature this meat but personally a 2 Meat Combo with Brisket and Pulled Pork is the move. When it comes to the sides, make sure one of them are the House Fries and use those as a reason to try EVERY SINGLE SAUCE. Whatever you do, save room for dessert. Even if it’s only to take a Pie Shake to go.
HOURS: Sunday - Tuesday 11am - 7:30pm | Wednesday - Saturday 11am - 8pm
WEBSITE: www.sugarfiresmokehouse.com
Being from the World Capital of BBQ is not without its pitfalls. It is only natural when a person travels to want to have an experience that differs from the one they have in their own town or city. So if you live in Kansas City, it can be quite difficult to travel anywhere and want to try their barbeque. After all, there are so many amazing options at home. Why leave Kansas City if you wanted to just try some barbeque? That sentiment is only compounded when visiting St. Louis and a believed civic duty compels a person not to give our little brother any credit for that which we already do best.
“While it can be hard for many in KC to accept, St. Louis does get unfairly overlooked in the national barbeque conversation.”
As a result, many from Kansas City stay blissfully unaware of St. Louis’ barbeque scene. The truth is, while it can be hard for many in KC to accept, St. Louis does get unfairly overlooked in the national barbeque conversation. This is a great barbeque town! In this writer’s opinion, the barbeque scene in St. Louis blows the likes of Memphis and Raleigh out of the water. Those places just benefit from an older, and more widely read story. Those other places also don’t find themselves sitting in the shadow of barbeque’s global capital.
For years, I did not give St. Louis their proper due. When I visited, I wanted to go to The Hill and have Italian food. I wanted to spend my days in Soulard having some great Cajun and seafood. I always had to have a pint of custard at Ted Drewe’s, and some toasted ravioli or gooey butter cake where I could find it. I looked forward to having several pints of Schlafly or Urban Chestnut, or maybe just a Fitz’s Root Beer.
For others, I am certain that getting a thin-crust pizza covered in that melted, plasticky, faux cheese abomination the locals call Provel is integral to the St. Louis experience. Or perhaps there is a hunger for a roast beef sandwich from Lion’s Choice. These are things we do time and time again when we visit because from a culinary standpoint, we see these things as what sets St. Louis apart.
But, it is a mistake to think that St. Louis barbeque is not similarly one of those things. It is naïve to think that a St. Louis barbeque experience cannot be unique from a Kansas City one.
Grab yourself a smoked fried chicken biscuit at Sugarfire or smoked bologna sandwich from Salt + Smoke and try to convince yourself that Kansas City does anything like that. If you happen to be heading to this weekend’s Sporting Kansas City match in St. Louis, check out the Beast Craft stand inside of CITYPARK** and order a pork steak sandwich. I dare you to find anything in any other barbeque city that compares.
Without experiencing the true diversity of American barbeque, how can any Kansas Citian truly appreciate their home-grown best? How can you truly believe the KC way is the best way without knowing what else is out there? The short answer is, you can’t.
Now, it does remain a matter of fact that St. Louis’s most well-known landmark encourages all who see it to continue west along I-70. As a proud Kansas Citian, I would say that following this advice for another 248 miles is an exceptional idea.
And yet, as a barbeque aficionado, if you did want to exit the highway and make a quit pit stop at Pappy’s to grab one of this country’s finest slabs before continuing to our great city? Well, nobody would fault you for that either.
Those Pesky Endnotes I Often Insist Upon
* Call me old-fashioned but no matter how much Elon Musk tries to destroy it, I will never, ever call it anything but Twitter. It’s called Twitter. They’re called tweets and retweets. Period.
^ Indicates places with multiple locations in the St. Louis Area. Address listed is the original / flagship location, which is also the location I visited.
** I promise I am not yelling at you. While St. Louis is brand new to professional soccer, they chose to make '“disgruntled boomer texting” their default typeface.
Ok, St. Louisans, I gave you some love! What are you favorite BBQ places that I missed? For travelers like me, what’s your favorite place to grab barbeque when in St. Louis? As always, share your feedback and recs in the comments below!
