Devan’s Dozen: Burnt Ends Edition
A NOTE FROM THE WRITER: disKCovery has declared this year to be “The Year of the Pit”. This is the latest installment of a wide selection of articles, essays, and rankings devoted to a year-long deep dive into Kansas City barbeque. To see the rest of the 2Q23 series, click HERE.
In 1972, Calvin Trillin wrote about the “burned edges” of brisket at Arthur Bryant’s and took burnt ends from being a Kansas City secret to a nationwide delicacy. PHOTO CREDIT: disKCovery
The Beautifully Beefy, Bewitchingly Bold, Beyond a Doubt Best Brisket Burnt Ends of the BBQ Capital
Published September 1, 2023
“The main course at [Arthur] Bryant’s, as far as I am concerned,” nationally acclaimed food writer and Kansas City local Calvin Trillin wrote for Playboy in 1972, “is something that is given away free - the burned edges of the brisket.”
“The counterman just pushes them over to the side and anyone who wants them helps himself. I dream of those burned edges. Sometimes when I’m in some awful, over-priced restaurant in some strange town, trying to choke down some three-dollar hamburger that tastes like a burned sponge; a blank look comes over me: I have just realized that at that very moment, someone in Kansas City is being given those burned edges free.” Trillin raved about the “burned edges” found in Kansas City as he continued about his affinity for a certain Belton staple. “I wouldn’t think of leaving town without having lunch at Snead’s Bar-B-Q,” he declared. “Snead’s cuts the burned edges off the brisket with a little more meat attached and puts them on the menu as ‘brownies. They do the same thing with ham. … A mixed plate of ham and beef brownies makes a marvelous meal.”
While it’s tough to know how long these “burned edges” have been a part of Kansas City barbeque, it’s been over half a century since Trillin alerted the rest of the world to the glorious meat confection that is the beef burnt end. Ask any foodie who comes to our city what they’re looking forward to trying, or any local what you should get while you’re here, and the answer to both will obviously be “burnt ends”.
“In fact, given how intensely [burnt ends] taste of wood smoke, you could say (and I do) they are the very concentrated essence of barbecue. ”
Despite the appearance that gives the iconic cut its name, burnt ends are not actually burnt. The caramelization of rub, meat, fat, and smoke give them a charred appearance that leave them burnt to the eye but satisfying to the palate. While they can be prepared and served in a number of ways, the best burnt ends are rarely sauced, but are instead served naked, or thinly glazed.
As Trillin pointed out with Snead’s ham brownies fifty years ago, there are a number of sausage, rib tip, ham, and pork belly / shoulder dishes that get characterized as burnt ends. While these can be delicious in their own right, a true burnt end is beef and these ends come from the point of the brisket. This fattiest portion of the cut requires a longer cook time to properly break it down. Even then, it is not ideal for slicing like the flat of the brisket. So instead, this succulent mixture of meat and fat is often cut into roughly one inch by one inch cubes. The result is a pillowy, buttery, bon bon-like chunk of meat that is often described as “meat candy” or “meat marshmallows”. Simultaneously sweet, smoky, and savory, one bite is all it takes to understand why Trillin’s dreams were made of these.
Even as the beef burnt end grows in popularity, and other barbeque regions rush to incorporate it into their own offerings, there is no denying (among those who know barbeque) that the beef burnt end was created here, it was definitely popularized here, and the best ones in the world are still found here. Today, nearly every BBQ joint in town serves up their own take on Kansas City’s most iconic entrée. Sadly, they are no longer being given away for free by idle countermen but instead, these “meatmallows” are priced and sold like they royal delicacy that they truly are.
Speaking of royal, it was by royal decree (American Royal Decree to be exact) in 2021 that September 1 was established as National Burnt Ends Day. This holiday celebrates the most iconic of Kansas CIty dishes and recognizes the growth that has allowed the beef burnt end to now feature in the barbeque of other cities and regions. In that spirit, and for the convenience of those wanting to celebrate Kansas City’s newest high holiday, these are the top 13 places to get a plate of burnt ends in the Kansas City metro.
Yes, 13. That was not a typo. While a dozen is technically 12, this is hardly the first time these rankings have stretched into a baker’s dozen. Soon enough, you’ll understand why.
12. A Little BBQ Joint
1101 W. Highway 24, Independence, Missouri
A Little BBQ Joint seems to be a little rough around the edges, but that’s also a key part of its charm. Quaint but bold seems to be the name of the game here. For that matter, simple and blunt is the name of the restaurant. There’s a number of reasons to visit this spot in Independence but the burnt ends are the star of the menu. They are straightforward and unapologetic about what they are. Each burnt end has a full-bodied flavor and a density you don’t often see in this cut. There’s an almost-grilled taste to each piece of some of the darker-colored burnt ends you’ll find. Flavors of smoke and fire really stand out in each bite. Most notable is the variety of textures that are present in a single serving. The spread is quite unusual as they can range from quite soft to very chewy. While it is unusual, and A Little BBQ Joint’s burnt ends are unique from the rest of this list, they are similarly elite in taste.
So, What Do I Get? It could not be any easier, the Burnt End plate features a half pound of beef burnt ends with two sides. Whatever you do, make sure the hot potato salad is one of those two sides. Beans are a great choice for the other.
Burnt End Plate with cheesy corn and hot potato salad at A Little BBQ Joint. PHOTO CREDIT - Ryan Dignan
11. Brobecks Barbeque
4615 Indian Creek Parkway, Overland Park, Kansas
While Brobecks Barbeque has been at their current location since 2007, they have a history in Stillwell, Kansas that predates that. Perhaps as much as any other barbeque joint in the metro, this is an example of a spot that is not as well-known as it should be but one that has quite the cult following. One of the many reasons that people flock to Brobecks is the beef burnt ends. Smoky, meaty, and even a little sweet, there is a gritty quality and a sooty flair that regulars love. Served naked, it is left to the customer to determine how they’d like to sauce them, if at all. While Brobecks has three excellent options, the mustard sauce is the recommended choice.
So, What Do I Get? The Burnt End Sandwich is a phenomenal value. It’s a half pound of amazing burnt ends served on a toasted bun, and that’s it. Only those two ingredients, and nothing requires these burnt ends be eaten as a sandwich. Consider going with a side of the white cheddar mac & cheese to complete the meal.
Brobecks’ burnt ends with white cheddar mac ‘n cheese and baked beans. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
10. Hayward’s Pit Bar B Que
10901 W. 75th Street, Shawnee, Kansas
For over 50 years Hayward’s Pit Bar B Que has been a Kansas destination. While locations and ownership have changed in that time, it’s hard to imagine that their burnt ends have. Everything about eating at Hayward’s always feels so classic, and the same can be said of this entrée. Well charred but not truly burnt, crispy but tender, and never uniform in shape or size, these are as burnt ends were always meant to be. Each bite has a robust beefy profile that lingers on the taste buds long after the end has melted away. The rub carries a balance of smoky and sweet that allows these chunks to be all that you could ever hope for them to be.
So, What Do I Get? The chance to pair Hayward’s burnt ends with their elite Kansas City ribs in the Rib & Burnt End Platter is too good to pass up. However, if you find yourself there on a Friday, the daily special of Ends ‘n Ends (a mix of pork and beef burnt ends) is a no-brainer.
Variety Plate at Hayward’s with pork spare ribs, beef habanero cheddar sausage, and beef burnt ends. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
9. SLAP’s BBQ
553 Central Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
When it comes to SLAP’s BBQ, there really is no wrong way to order. Being both a decorated competition team and in the upper echelon of KCQ means that the menu is essentially without a weak spot. The downside of having such an all-star line-up is that occasionally certain meats don’t get near the attention that they should. At times, this seems to be the case with the beef burnt ends at SLAP’s. While they sometimes take a back seat to the likes of the ribs and sausage, these burnt ends are similarly elite. Some of the bigger burnt ends you’ll find, the large chunks are soft and tender with such a gentle jet black char. The way they effortlessly dissolve is just divine. More than anything, it’s the sweetness in the rub and the richness of the meat that makes these meatmallows one-of-a-kind.
So, What Do I Get? The Cattlemen’s Plate featuring burnt ends, brisket, and the beef Polish sausage is a popular choice here. Any of the Burnt End plates or combos are going to be a great option at a premier joint like SLAP’s. When it comes to the sides, there’s really no wrong answer but the hushpuppies are criminally underrated.
Pork spare ribs, jalapeño cheddar sausage, and burnt ends from Slap’s BBQ. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
8. LC’s Bar-B-Q
5800 Blue Parkway, Kansas City, Missouri
While LC’s Bar-B-Q was not around in the earliest barbeque eras, it sure feels that way. Walking through the doors is a throwback to an era long forgotten. There are few sights in the city that rival that glorious closet of meat behind the counter. That old school tradition and aesthetic extends to the LC’s menu. When it comes to the burnt ends, you can taste the smoke in each tender, yet chewy, bite. They may be the closest thing being served today to the “burnt brisket edges” that Trillin first wrote about. A mixture of shapes, sizes, and even textures are to be found on every plate but, the one thing that is always consistent is the collection of profiles that lend to their memorable flavor. More than beef, fat, rub, or smoke, the burnt ends at LC’s just taste like Kansas City.
So, What Do I Get? The Burnt Ends Half & Half plate is easily the play here. Nearly half a pound of beef burnt ends, drizzled with LC’s sauce, tops a slice of Roma white bread and then nearly half a pound of pork burnt ends sit on the plate served in just the same way. While this is plenty of food in its own right, if you must order a side, the spicy green beans and the hand-cut fries are the standouts of the menu.
Burnt Ends Half & Half Plate from LC’s BBQ with beef burnt ends (RIGHT) and pork burnt ends (LEFT). PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
7. Q39*
1000 W. 39th Street, Kansas City, Missouri
The bedrock on which Q39 was built has always been the beef brisket, and by extension the beef burnt ends. Founder Rob Magee was revolutionary in his approach to preparing brisket and burnt ends and that is a tradition that Q39 proudly continues today. Unsurprisingly, there is an elevated feel to the burnt ends here, but they still maintain the character of what a burnt end should be. They possess an exceptional char and the right amount of roughness around the edges. The edges possess a silky smooth grit, if there is such a thing. Within those edges, just a pool of liquified meat. Each little square is almost like a crème brulee with a firm outer shell and then a smooth, rich interior that melts like beefy butter every single time.
So, What Do I Get? Due to a lack of flexibility in the menu, there’s really only two ways to order the burnt ends. Luckily, both are tremendous options. The Certified Angus Beef Brisket competition plate features both their sliced brisket and their burnt ends. The more popular way to eat them is the Mr. Burns sandwich. Topped with pepperjack cheese and onion straws, this is one of the best BBQ sandwiches in the city! As for which side to choose? Apple slaw for the win.
The Mr. Burns sandwich, featuring beef burnt ends, from Q39. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
6. Branding Iron BBQ
2027 N. Commercial Street, Harrisonville, Missouri
It’s well known how far spread the Kansas City metro is. Luckily, even in the southernmost reaches of KC, top-shelf burnt ends can still be found. Branding Iron BBQ has been serving up their signature brand of barbeque to the people of Harrisonville for over thirty years. In a number of ways, the plate being served up at Branding Iron is flawless. If you were to imagine exactly what a burnt end should be like, it’s pretty close to this. The char is outstanding and has an ideal mouthfeel and flavor. The meat is rich and tender with a nice kiss of smoke. Speaking of smoke, there’s a deep ring that is truly something to behold. These are the kind of burnt ends that are worth making a special trip for but if you’re lucky enough to have them in your backyard? There’s not much reason to leave.
So, What Do I Get? It’s all about the Burnt End Dinner. Either opt for a full plate of the beef burnt ends or choose a mixed plate of burnt ends and sausage burnt ends. Both are great options. Upgrading to at least one signature side (Texas toothpicks or hashbrown casserole) is a must.
The Burnt End Dinner from Branding Iron BBQ. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
TIE - 5. Char Bar Smoked Meats & Amusements
4050 Pennsylvania Avenue, Kansas City, Missouri
Once again, Char Bar has managed to find itself featured in an edition of Devan’s Dozen. Since they came on the scene less than 10 years ago, Char Bar has been a place that does many things well. Chief among them are beef burnt ends. These are some of the more picturesque burnt ends that can be found. The perfectly sized cubes of meat are nicely charred and expectedly tender. Char Bar’s take on the dish balances dryness and moisture with lean and fat so perfectly that the texture could not hope to be any better.
So, What Do I Get? If you have the chance, go for Char Bar’s barbeque brunch and order the Burnt End Benny with a side of breakfast potatoes. The combination of burnt ends, poached eggs, hollandaise, and buttermilk biscuit is tough to beat. During normal hours, the Burnt Heaven sandwich or the Holy Trinity Platter (which also includes some ribs and brisket) are similarly great options.
TIE - 5. Meat Mitch*
3620 W. 95th Street, Leawood, Kansas
To some, a tie may feel like a cop-out but in the case of Meat Mitch and Char Bar, it is warranted. After all, both barbeque concepts come from the same great mind in Mitch Benjamin. Now, while these are entirely different restaurants and there actually are differences in the two editions of burnt ends, they are just so subtle. The essence of both is the same. The qualities that land Char Bar in these rankings, also put Meat Mitch here. It is so easy to mistake one for the other. Siblings rarely relish the chance to be compared but hopefully these brothers can both feel good about their place upon this list.
So, What Do I Get? The YOU PICK 2 meats plate with smoked burnt ends and black angus carved brisket is a lot of beef, but you’ll be glad you ordered it. As far as the sides? Opt for the sticky curly fries, which are traditional seasoned curly fries tossed in honey, and / or the bacon broccoli slaw.
The beef burnt ends from Char Bar, or are they from Meat Mitch? It makes sense for these two restaurants to share this spot. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
4. Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que*
3002 W. 47th Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que gets well-earned fanfare for the Z-Man Sandwich and their ribs, but when Anthony Bourdain included them as the ONLY barbeque place on his famed 13 Places to Eat Before You Die, he led with the burnt ends. “Here, the brisket (particularly the burnt ends) … are all of a quality that meet the high standards even of Kansas City natives.” The burnt ends are perfect little striated cubes with a dark brown char. They’re tender, smoky, and melt-in-your-mouth good. This is about as good as burnt ends get in Kansas City. There are many who consider these the best burnt ends in all the world, and the late, great, Bourdain was among them.
So, What Do I Get? When available, go for the Ribs & Burnt End Dinner. Both recognized by Devan’s Dozen, the chance to get a helping of burnt ends with three of Kansas City’s best ribs is too good of an opportunity to pass up. As for the side, don’t overthink it! It’s got to be a bag of Joe’s famous fries.
The beef burnt ends from Joe’s with a hefty helping of pickles. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
3. Wolfepack BBQ
910 E. 5th Street, Kansas City, Missouri
In a short amount of time, Wolfepack BBQ has become a place that people expect to get some of the best brisket in town. The use of prime cuts and the offset smokers shines in all their meats, but especially the beef. One place where Wolfepack differs from the majority of their craft contemporaries is that turning out a Texas style brisket does not prevent them from also dropping some Kansas City style burnt ends. If fusion is the melding of culinary styles, would the merging of barbeque ones be “quesion”? This is what Wolfepack accomplishes that is just so special. When available, these burnt ends are an absolute must. The robust, peppery, soft char and the richness of the meat is unmatched. Each square has such a delightful pop, and chew to them. The non-chalant ways these tender morsels melt on the tongue is something special, but thanks to the quality of the meat that mix of brisket and smoke flavor lingers long after the end has gone.
So, What Do I Get? When available, just get yourself half a pound (or more) of these amazing burnt ends, or incorporate them into a variety plate. Sides of beans and white cheddar mac and cheese should complement quite nicely, but don’t be afraid to check out their creative array of side items.
Brisket and burnt ends from Wolfepack BBQ in Columbus Park. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
2. The BBQ Shack
808 Baptiste Drive, Paola, Kansas
Regularly parked in the lot of Paola’s Family Center Farm & Home, The BBQ Shack is a former brick & mortar restaurant that has transitioned into an incredibly popular food truck. There’s no tables or seating of any kind, just a regular home a few days a week in this Paola parking lot. It’s not uncommon for people to drive from an hour away just to sample the BBQ Shack’s fares. While the BBQ Shack does have a regular presence, it is best to check their Facebook for hours first if you plan to make the trek. The biggest driver of such a devoted following are their beef burnt ends, and it makes absolute sense. The BBQ Shack’s version are simply exquisite. They have an ideal soft black char and are so plump that they actually pop between your teeth when you bite in. Served naked, the smokiness is next-level and the house rub is just marvelous. While the Shack puts out a nice sauce, may the ghosts of Arthur and Charlie Bryant themselves haunt you if you dare sauce such perfect meat candy.
So, What Do I Get? Just order a plate (or a container may be more accurate) of the burnt ends! And while you’re at it, order an ABT (Atomic Buffalo Turd) on the side. This smoked jalapeño stuffed with smoked chicken and cream cheese and then wrapped in bacon is incredible.
An order of burnt ends with potato casserole and an ABT from the BBQ Shack. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
1. Smoketown BBQ & Catering
7702 Shawnee Mission Parkway, Overland Park, Kansas
They really have not been around for that long and already, Smoketown BBQ has a reputation for two things: their specialty sandwiches and for being home to the metro’s best beef burnt ends. It would be impossible to imagine that a burnt end could be much better than these. It all starts with that deep cheery bark that has a nice smoky profile and a playful chewiness to be adored. The chunks are picturesque, uniform in size, shape, and texture. The quality of the cut is evident before you even take a bite. The marbling is exceptional. The profiles and textures are so delicately and wonderfully balanced. The way that everything comes together; it just evokes a sense of ecstasy with every bite. As bizarre as it may seem to say, there is a serenity to these burnt ends. Each one providing comfort and peace as the swirl of flavors and textures consistently provide comfort and joy.
So, What Do I Get? The best way to enjoy these tender meatmallows may actually be on the “DOM”. This combination of burnt ends, pepperjack cheese, grilled onions, and pickles was named one of the best BBQ sandwiches in town for a reason. It is worth noting however, that Smoketown does include the burnt ends as part of their Sampler Plate with four other meats. Nowadays that’s more uncommon than ever, so whether you’re a first timer or just like a diversity of meats, that is a terrific option as well.
The “DOM” sandwich, featuring beef burnt ends, from Smoketown BBQ. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
If I had to pinpoint the moment I fell in love with barbeque, it all goes back to a night in October of 2004. It was my freshman year at the University of Central Missouri (UCM) and a group of friends invited me to join them for a late night meal at Perry Foster’s Bar B-Q (in Warrensburg, Missouri). Having never been to a real BBQ joint before, I followed the lead of most my friends and ordered a sliced meat sandwich with fries. But when our food came out, I noticed that across the table from me, sitting in front of my friend Tim, was a Styrofoam plate hidden under a mountain of big black cubes.
“When I was away from [Kansas City] too long ... I also dreamed of those burnt brisket edges.”
“What do you have there Tim?”
“Oh man, have you never had a burnt end? Here, try one! They’re the only thing I order!”
I took the golf-ball sized cube of meat, and hesitantly bit off a piece.
For a brief second, time stopped as I was enveloped in bliss. I imagine that The Drifters provided the background music in my mind as I took that pivotal bite and allowed the complex simplicity of this wonderful chunk of meat candy to take over. I was surely in a daze. I remember specifically setting aside the remainder of the cube as I dug into my meal, not because I disliked it, but because I was already certain what I wanted my final bite of food to be.
That shack on DD highway with ripped chairs, sticky floors, thirty year old beer calendars on the wall, and a busted TV sure didn’t look like much. But, to me, it was the finest restaurant in all the world.
While not in the KC metro, it was at Perry Foster’s that my love affair with burnt ends began. This same BBQ joint was a favorite of legendary Chiefs’ linebacker Derrick Thomas. PHOTO COURTESY OF: Johnson County (MO) Historical Society
It was the place where I discovered beef burnt ends. For the next four years, I knew that whether it was mid-day or midnight; I could trust that when I pulled up to that homey white shack, Perry Foster himself would be behind the counter ready to serve up another plate of his mind-melting burnt ends, with a generous helping of potato skins on the side. A bottle of his vinegary, tangy barbeque sauce sat on each table waiting to adorn both.
In the years after I graduated, I left the Midwest for a spell. I spent a few years hopping around the East Coast. When I did make it back to Missouri, I would do my best to visit Perry’s, but I also began to explore Kansas City. Many of my friends were eager to introduce me to the city where these wonderful meatmallows had been born. And as I tried the burnt end array that can only be found in KC, I fell in love with them, this city, and barbeque even more.
But then, I would fly back to the East Coast. While I lived in cities and areas with their own culinary merits, there were times that I was faced with a subpar meal. In those moments, I would be haunted by the realization that back in Kansas City, or Warrensburg, someone was being served a heavenly plate of charred meat candy that at one time would have had my name on it. When I was away from this area for too long, like Trillin, I also dreamed of those burnt brisket edges.
Perry sadly closed up shop years ago but thankfully, it has still been more than a decade since I have had to dream of burnt ends. For even if I were to dream such a dream, I know that I can simply open my eyes and be mere minutes away from some of the best ones in all the world.
And this is a privilege that I, nor any Kansas Citian, should ever take for granted.
Those Pesky Endnotes I Often Insist Upon
* Denotes barbeque joints and restaurants with multiple locations. The address given is the original and/or flagship store.
Where’s your favorite place to get a plate of burnt ends? Did they make the list? As always, share your tidbits, endorsements, and disagreements in the comments!
