Irish I Had a Reuben!
Breit’s Stein & Deli has been slingin’ affordable drafts and sensational sandwiches in Strawberry Hill since 2003.
Published March 5, 2021
When I was a teenager, my mom introduced me to her favorite sandwich, the Reuben. For me, it was love at first bite. The signature combination of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Thousand Island dressing on rye bread hit every possible taste bud. It satisfied every textural need I desire in a sandwich, long before I realized I had those standards. Like many Midwesterners, I have Irish and German heritage. I am also of Dutch and Polish-Jewish descent. While I take pride in the four nations whose heritage I claim, I have always held my Irish heritage just a bit higher. Perhaps, it is due to my Irish surname, my Celtic first name, or the fact that we have our own widely-celebrated holiday. Regardless, my love affair with the Reuben was only exacerbated by its long-held affiliation with St. Patrick’s Day.
When it comes to the Reuben, there are two schools of thought as to the sandwich’s origin. On the one hand, there are those who know that the sandwich was invented at the Blackstone Hotel in Omaha, Nebraska in the early 20th century. And on the other? There are those who are wrong. Like the Kansas City Strip and bebop music, the Reuben is a midwestern innovation that New York City loves to falsely lay claim to.
“What screams, ‘Heartland!’ more than a non-kosher fusion of German, Irish, Jewish, and Russian cuisine that the chef chose to spruce up by adding a generous amount of cheese and salad dressing?”
Accepting the reality of the Reuben’s Omaha origins is not about midwestern solidarity (though there is a little bit of that in play) but it is also about a clear chain of custody and a trail of rye bread crumbs that leads north up the Missouri River. There are those that, foolishly, want you to believe that a Jewish deli in New York invented and popularized a sandwich that is not even kosher. Or, you can believe that, like most innovations, the Reuben was born out of necessity. At a regular poker game at an Omaha hotel , the owner instructed his son to bring up a tray of sandwiches that utilized their excess of corned beef and the sauerkraut from the wholesaler, Reuben Kulakofsky, who he wanted to impress. In the process, Bernard Schimmel invented the penultimate Midwestern sandwich, to the delight of the man for which it was named. What screams, “Heartland!” more than a non-kosher fusion of German, Irish, Jewish, and Russian cuisine that the chef chose to spruce up by adding a generous amount of cheese and salad dressing before grilling it? But, I digress.
While there are a number of corned beef sandwich variations, to me, a Reuben must possess five key ingredients:
Rye Bread (any bread made primarily from rye flour such as dark rye, light rye, marble rye, or pumpernickel)
Corned Beef (pastrami being a brined beef cut is also acceptable)
Swiss Cheese (variations like Emmentaler and Raclette also acceptable)
Sauerkraut (or any variation of sauerkraut or slaw made from cabbage)
Thousand Island or Russian Dressing (though some varieties do incorporate mustards, these dressings are the standard)
Due to the frequent affiliation of the sandwich with the Irish and with St. Patrick’s Day, Omaha declared March 14 National Reuben Day seven years ago. Long before that, like fast food restaurants with fish sandwiches during Lent, bars and restaurants across America start offering Reubens this time of year. While Reubens do hit just a bit better come March, this is a 365 day a year love affair for me. For that reason, I wanted to share a few recommendations on places where you can not only find a great Kansas City Reuben in March, but during the other 11 months as well.
There are a number of great Reubens in Kansas City, and perhaps one day I will rank them, but below are five fantastic versions. Again, THIS IS NOT A RANKING. For that reason, I have listed the restaurants in alphabetical order. While all of these contain the five necessary ingredients, and are available in KC year-round, some contain added ingredients or twists that make them unique.
It is hard to find a better lunch value than Breit’s Reuben in terms of quality and cost. The traditional griddled sandwich cannot be beat.
Breit’s Stein & Deli
412 North 5th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
The first thing you notice when you walk into Breit’s Stein & Deli, is that it has an aged feel. When my friend Megan first took me to Breit’s a few years ago, I assumed it had been around for decades. In reality, Breit’s has only been open since 2003. A favorite within the Strawberry Hill community, this Irish bar is a local favorite that is renowned for their sensational sandwiches, cold draft beers, and affordable prices. You would be hard-pressed to find a better lunch deal in town. I recently went and got myself a Reuben, side of potato salad, and a perfectly poured pint of Guinness for $10, after tax. $10 AFTER TAX!
Breit’s Reuben is a griddled sandwich, reminiscent of a grilled cheese or patty melt. Owner Bob Breitenstein picks up the fresh marble rye daily from nearby Bagel Works Bread Company. You can taste the caraway in each bite of the light and toasty rye bread. The corned beef is sliced thin and carefully layered. The sauerkraut adds a nice texture. The flavor is subtle but the notes of vinegar are just enough to make the kraut’s presence known. The melted Swiss cheese follows on the back-end of each bite. Of course, each blissful morsel is escorted by a generous slathering of Thousand Island which adds the tanginess that completes this sandwich.
DD’s Pro Tip: This is an Irish watering hole and they pour a Guinness, in the proper glassware, perfectly. Definitely make sure you grab a brew, or two, when you sit down for this meal.
Founded in 1887, and moved to their current building in 1901, Browne’s Irish Marketplace is the oldest Irish business in North America.
Browne’s Irish Marketplace
3300 Pennsylvania Avenue, Kansas City, Missouri
Even if you are not seeking out a Reuben, Browne’s Irish Marketplace is a must-visit as St. Patrick’s Day approaches. The oldest Irish business in North America, Browne’s has been a marketplace of Irish and Celtic commodities, gifts, and fare at their current location, the historic Flavin/Browne Building, since 1901. The original Brownes hailed from County Kerry in Ireland. Today, the fifth generation of Brownes continue a proud tradition of selling quality Irish goods with a side of warm, friendly service.
The Reuben is a deli-style sandwich that can be ordered from the meat counter at the back of the main show room. The foil-wrapped sandwich is constructed between two slices of warmed, chewy marble rye. The pale slices of corned beef have a coarse texture but a richness that cannot be matched. The Swiss is partially melted but combined with the sauerkraut give a nice texture and underlying taste that suits the straightforward sandwich. The housemade Thousand Island dressing is light and runny but the profound pickle flavor of the relish provides a nice refreshing burst that really ties this sandwich together.
DD’s Pro Tip: Browne’s actually offers their signature sandwich as both a Reuben and a Rachel (turkey instead of corned beef). They also offer the sandwich with Thousand Island dressing or horseradish. My recommendation? Ask for a mix of the two sauces. You can thank me later!
In a matter of months, The Combine has already gained a reputation for serving up one of the best Reubens in KC.
The Combine
2999 Troost Avenue, Kansas City, Missouri
The newest place on this list, The Combine opened inside the old Wonder Bread factory on Troost in November, 2020. The beautiful, wide-open, industrial space strikes a balance between modern, maybe even chic, design and the inviting comfort of a neighborhood eatery. The black and white photos on the wall harken to the history of the building and the neighborhood. Convenient to multiple neighborhoods along the Jackson County corridor, the soon-to-be Eastside staple is the kind of place where you can get a grab-and-go lunch or linger for hours. It’s a place where you can have a happy hour with your friends or you can also set up a laptop and work remotely.
The Reuben is just as carefully built, and multi-faceted, as the space where it is served. The Combine’s take on the popular sandwich is panini-pressed poetry. The marble rye from Roma Bakery is perfectly pressed. The bread is morphed into a thin, toasty, and crispy outer shell that maintains just enough of Roma’s signature doughiness. The eloquence of the Reuben lies in the carefully, constructed stanzas of meat, cheese, and kraut contained within the slices. The ribbons of corned beef are tender but maintain the right amount of chewiness. The sauerkraut makes itself known but works in harmony with the other ingredients. It has a very pleasing crisp and a twang that only adds to the complexity of the sandwich’s verse. The thin veil of Russian dressing is delightful. Combined with the exquisitely melted Swiss, the dressing ties the whole sandwich together. The blend of textures and flavors in this deceptively dense sandwich is nothing short of melodious.
DD’s Pro Tip: The Combine is spacious and has a fantastic bar and television set-up. Consider going the next time you need a place to watch live sports! The potato salad has a nice balance of sweet and sour that makes it an ideal accompaniment to the sandwich.
While the smoked corned beef already makes the Irish Hawg unique among Reubens, it is the house-made spicy sauerkraut and the addition of a second smoked meat that makes this sandwich so special.
Hawg Jaw Que & Brew
900 Swift Street, North Kansas City, Missouri
This is a Kansas City food article. And, it’s written by me. Y’all had to know that I was going to mention barbeque, even when the article isn’t about barbeque. Hawg Jaw Que & Brew burst onto the scene in 2012 and was even named Kansas City’s “Best New BBQ” by The Pitch that same year. After five years in Riverside, Missouri, the restaurant moved to their current Northtown location in 2017. While this is first and foremost a BBQ joint, Hawg Jaw stands apart in that they offer a regular entrant on their menu that is, at best, an occasional inclusion at other BBQ joints - smoked corned beef. The presence of their signature smoked meat allows Hawg Jaw to offer their own unique take on the Reuben (and one of the best BBQ sandwiches in the city), the Irish Hawg.
The Irish Hawg contains all five necessary ingredients with smoked corned beef, marble rye, Swiss cheese, spicy sauerkraut, and Thousand Island dressing. While Hawg Jaw’s use of smoked corned beef already sets it apart, a sixth ingredient - their smoked house-made sausage - makes this sandwich something special. The Roma bakery marble rye is very lightly toasted so it remains soft and chewy. The corned beef is rich, smoky, and piled high. The sausage is long-sliced and well-seasoned. The real star on this sandwich is the German-style spicy sauerkraut that Hawg Jaw makes in house. It is crunchy and the seeds (I believe they are caraway) provide a nice texture. The tartness of the vinegar works in concert with the heat of the sauerkraut that slowly builds with each bite. This sandwich has a kick but is not overbearing. The Thousand Island dressing is A+! While I usually prefer my Swiss cheese to be melted, the semi-melted state allows the slice to maintain its sweet and mild flavor which pacifies the heat of the kraut.
DD’s Pro Tip: I named the fries at Hawg Jaw the best fries at any Kansas City BBQ Joint in my side dish edition of Fountain City Superlatives. They are always a strong side option! The sweet potato fries, served with marshmallow fluff, are also really solid. Additionally, Hawg Jaw shares a wall with The Big Rip Brewing Company and they deliver to the next-door brewery. Consider placing a to-go order, or ordering the Irish Hawg online, and enjoying a pint at one of Kansas City’s best microbreweries while you eat.
The Central Branch Reuben at Milwaukee Deli was the first Kansas City Reuben that I knew I had to have again, and again.
Milwaukee Delicatessen Company
101 West 9th Street, Kansas City, Missouri
Milwaukee Delicatessen Company was the place where I ate the first Kansas City Reuben that I knew I had to have again. While the current iteration of Milwaukee Deli has only been open since 2013, it carries on a century-old tradition in a historic building and space. That history is preserved today thanks to this bar and restaurant. In less than a decade, Milwaukee Deli has become a favorite lunch spot and post-work happy hour place for those downtown.
Milwaukee Deli is unique in that it actually offers a variety of Reubens. The KC Corned Beef subs out the sauerkraut for creamy slaw. The Milwaukee Style keeps the kraut but replaces the Russian Dressing with grain mustard. My preferred version is the Central Branch Reuben. The marble rye toast, from nearby Farm to Market ,is aesthetically gorgeous and boasts a full flavor. The grill marks from the press add a nice pinch of charred flavor to each crunchy bite. The corned beef is decadent. It has a brilliant red hue and is thicker sliced, which I tend to prefer. The meat is more crumbly than it is tender. It falls apart in your mouth. The sauerkraut is soft and stringy but has a nice tartness to it. The Russian dressing is wonderful, but runny. It definitely makes for a messy sandwich. The Swiss is ideally melted. What makes the Central Branch so special is a unique addition, slices of marinated tomato. The acidity of the tomato and the seasonings of its marinade, add a sophistication to this sandwich that is rather unexpected. This added caveat takes this sandwich from being merely great, to elite.
DD’s Pro Tip: Milwaukee Deli also serves an excellent pastrami sandwich. While I am definitely a corned beef guy (Irish, remember?), if you are inclined to prefer a pastrami Reuben, this is the place for you. Simply ask for the server to sub out the corned beef for pastrami in any of their three signature Reubens.
Obviously, this is just a small sampling of the many great Reubens that can be found across the city. It should come as no surprise. First of all, our city is only a three hour drive from the birthplace of the Reuben. Secondly, Kansas City is considered one of the top five Irish cities in America. With approximately 10% of our population being of Irish ancestry, and with Kansas City hosting one of the largest St. Patrick’s Day parades in the nation, none of this should come as a surprise.
So get out this month, enjoy the Irish high holiday, and grab yourself a Reuben from one of these five fantastic spots. Sláinte!
Alright, let me hear it! Where did I screw up? What’s your favorite place in Kansas City to grab Omaha’s signature sandwich? Tell me in the comments! And remember, subscribe at the bottom of the page for more Fountain City Foodie content!
