Shipping Off to Austin
More noteworthy than its status as a state capital, Austin is known by many for being the epicenter of Texas’ signature style of barbeque. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Published November 4, 2024
A NOTE FROM THE WRITER: No, your eyes are not deceiving you. This is an article about barbeque in Central Texas. disKCovery has always been about highlighting the best of Kansas City and chronicling my own journey through this amazing city I call home, while also calling attention to overlooked corners and aspects of KC. Equally important to that, is the goal of dispelling the myth that anywhere can be called “Flyover Country”. My love for this city is fueled by the fact that I have been fortunate to travel many places, and seen what else the world has to offer. When life does take me away from my home, I relish the opportunity to explore and write about other places too. That’s what #nomaDD pieces are. Earlier this year, I spent a weekend in Austin and dove head-first into the Central Texas way of doing things. The chance to go somewhere new, indulge in a widely-vaunted style of barbeque, and compare its merits to the abundance we have here in KC? Well, that was too good of an opportunity to pass up.
In certain corners of our vast nation, barbeque is tantamount to religion.
Complete with fervent followers and culinary prophets, each claiming to know the secrets of ultimate flavor, Kansas City is one such enclave. Memphis, Alabama, St. Louis, Texas, and the Carolinas similarly stake their own claims to being a bastion of the faith. In cities and regions such as these, barbeque is not merely consumed; it is revered. It’s a way of life. People grow up with traditions that shape their identities, and every pit becomes an alter where devotees gather to worship their preferred style.
While there is no definitive metric or objective arbiter to determine whose way is best, that hardly deters the most passionate congregants of each sect from spreading their own gospel in an attempt to convert the uninitiated.
Instead of temples or churches, the faithful flock to restaurants, shacks, dives, food trucks, stands, and backyard gatherings to share in a sacrament that feeds both body and soul. While such a comparison may seem overblown, there is good reason that Kansas City and Texas are often dubbed barbeque “meccas” after all.
Speaking of Texas - there’s a state that unabashedly encapsulates this zealotry. Down there, the craft is a treasured lineage that has been handed down from one generation to the next. Many gather at the same venerable establishments their parents and grandparents did, eager to unlock the arcane mysteries of smoke and spice. The culinary tapestry is rich and diverse, with clearly defined denominations shaped by the cultural heritage of each community. Distinct differences - from cuts of meat to types of wood to signature sauce styles - reflects this vibrant mosaic.
In the dioceses of South Texas, the root-word of barbeque, barbacoa, takes on literal meaning with the cheek of beef, brisket, beef ribs, and even lengua (beef tongue) as common offerings. Here Latin American and Spanish influences reign supreme, crafting bold and tangy tomato-based sauces that tantalize the taste buds, while meats are served on or alongside handmade tortillas.
In Texas, not much is more sacred than barbeque. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Meanwhile, in the Eastern Texas parishes, barbeque transforms into a delightful fusion of “sugar and spice and everything nice.” The emphasis shifts to succulent, hickory-smoked pork cuts, embracing African-American and Caribbean traditions to create a sublime blend of Southern comfort food and Texas flair. Whether atop a slab of pork spare ribs or chopped beef brisket, a generous glaze of sweet molasses-based sauce, with a kick of heat, makes every plate worthy of celebration.
Out west, the barbeque scene gets a little more wild as the well-known mantra of “low and slow” is tossed aside. Enter the realm of “cowboy barbeque” where chickens, sausages, briskets, and pork ribs sizzle over the high, direct heat of an open mesquite wood-fired pit. Here, the pitmasters slather the meats with vinegar-based “mop sauces”, throughout the cooking process, that infuse the fast-cooked meats with a flavor that the smoke does not have the time to provide.
Nestled in the heart of this culinary Holy See lies Central Texas, where the barbeque scene takes on a life of its own. From culinary, geographic, and political perspectives, Austin proudly lays claim to being the epicenter of Texas barbeque. In this gastronomic eparchy, using sauce is not quite a sin, but it certainly flirts with the boundaries of blasphemy. When sauces do make an appearance, they are thin, runny, and vinegar-based, served on the side as not to disrupt the flavors of the smoked meats they’re intended to complement.
In this corner of Texas, waves of German and Czech immigrants left an indelible mark as European traditions of hand-crafting sausages and smoking briskets for preservation evolved into the state’s orthodox barbeque style. In that delicatessen tradition, meats are cut at a counter directly in front of the customer and laid out on butcher paper. Thick-cut beef briskets, dinosaur-sized beef ribs, and heaps of expertly crafted sausages are smoked over beds of post oak, with occasional bits of hickory or pecan, before they are piled high to form gargantuan platters whose size and flavor can only be contained by a place as vast as Texas itself.
It has been said that faith is the certainty of things not seen, and yet my own zeal for the Kansas City way of doing things was challenged by the weight of curiosity. While I have delved deeper than most into the BBQ Capital, surely, it would be folly to ignore what the wider barbeque faith has to offer. This doctrine is so much larger than Kansas City. So, when earlier this year, the stars aligned and presented me the opportunity to make my inaugural pilgrimage to Austin, I leapt at the chance - eager to plunge into this world-renowned mecca, observe their rituals, and learn what makes so many so fiercely passionate about Central Texas barbeque.
What ensued was a smoke-filled odyssey that led me to four fantastic eateries. Each one stands as a shining beacon of flavor that guided me further along my path of barbeque enlightenment and expanded my understanding of American barbeque as a true art form. Ahead are the chronicles of a journey that, while in my past, is certainly not in my rearview.
KG BBQ (at Oddwood Brewing)
3108 Manor Road, Austin, Texas
At KG BBQ, Egypt meets Austin as traditional brisket is served alongside za’atar-seasoned mutton dishes. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
“An idea,” Dom Cobb postulated in Inception (2010), “is like a virus. Resilient. Highly contagious. The smallest seed of an idea can grow.” By all accounts, a fateful first bite of Texas brisket back in 2012 planted a seemingly simple notion in the mind of Kareem El-Ghayesh—that he had to have more. That spark quickly evolved into a blazing passion, prompting him to leave behind a corporate finance career in Cairo and move halfway around the world in pursuit of barbeque knowledge. Over the decade that followed, he apprenticed with some of Austin’s best-known pitmasters before opening his own barbeque trailer in the fall of 2022.
While El-Ghayesh left Egypt, Egypt has never left him. At KG BBQ, the cradle of civilization harmoniously merges with Central Texas smoke to create a delightful contradiction: flavors that are storied presented in a way that is inventive and new. The audacious integration of bold Middle Eastern flavors into Austin’s signature style gives birth to an Egyptian fusion of barbeque that Austin never asked for. Yet, as evidenced by the snaking lines in front of the little black trailer at Oddwood Brewing, is clearly welcomed and needed.
The little black trailer behind Oddwood Brewing keeps Austinites coming back for their Egyptian twist on Texas ‘que. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
The Texas brisket that changed El-Ghayesh’s life is on the menu, but in the Middle Eastern tradition, lamb also features heavily. Available in the form of smoked lamb chops, pulled lamb shoulder, and the ever-popular lamb bacon ribs; lamb also appears alongside grilled chicken and ground beef in their skewers, rice bowls, and barbeque shawarmas. KG’s uncommon use of smoked mutton, would be enough to set it apart from its Texas counterparts, if it weren’t for all the unique flavors. The cuts of lamb are succulent, savory, and gamey. The heavy use of sumac and za’atar provides a complexity and panache that is simply unmatched in the marketplace.
Perhaps, the most surprising entrant on the menu is the pork ribs. In El-Ghayesh’s predominantly Muslim homeland, pork is nearly impossible to acquire, but in Austin, El-Ghayesh prepares his slabs with a generous glaze of KG’s house pomegranate barbeque sauce. The savory yet sour molasses-based sauce, with a fruity underbelly, perfectly pairs with every meat offering.
Middle Eastern fare is often described as vibrant in its flavor, but KG BBQ brings that same radiance to the look and feel of every Texas platter. In a genre typically reserved for yellows and browns, El-Ghayesh’s plates burst with color! Beet-infused potato salads, smoked-meat rice bowls topped with candied nuts and seeds, and crisp baladi salads give each meal an appearance as bold and brilliant as its flavors. The freshness of the ingredients and crisp flavors of the light sides provide a welcome balance that is rarely found in barbeque, but one that plays extremely well on the hottest of Texas days.
It would be easy for many to look at this fusion of Egypt and Austin and write it off as nothing more than a novelty. But the thing about gimmicks is that they tend to get a person in the door only once. The vivid flavors and unique offerings at KG BBQ have several around Austin coming back to the little black trailer for more.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? If you’re in Central Texas, you have to order the Brisket — that’s just a fact of life. The fatty slices have a nice bark and gritty texture with a deep purple smoke ring that would make any Austinite proud. However, it would be shameful to visit KG BBQ and not try one of their mutton offerings. The juicy and rich Lamb Bacon Ribs are popular for good reason. A fantastic way to experience all the flavors KG has to offer is through the Egyptian Cowboy. The surprisingly light Mac n Cheese is topped with pulled lamb shoulder, sumac pickled onions, pomegranate barbeque sauce, and a dash of za’atar seasoning. The complexity of the flavors and textures, highlighted by the richness of the tender lamb and the tanginess of the sauce, gives this inventive dish a blue-collar feel that is inexplicably refined. While you’re sitting on the Oddwood patio enjoying your meal, you may as well pair it with one of their locally-brewed beers. The Corner 3 is a tart and light American-style fruited sour with notes of raspberry and mango that works quite well with KG’s flavors. It also just makes for a nice, refreshing pint on a hot Texas day. Whatever you do, save room for the Oum Ali! KG’s take on the Egyptian bread pudding is a revelation. The horchata-adjacent puff pastry bursting with cinnamon, vanilla, hazelnut, and the delightful crunch of macadamia nuts is the perfect cap to fantastic meal.
So, What’s the Closest I Can Find in KC? There is nothing that compares to what KG BBQ is doing in Kansas City, or likely anywhere else. If I had to draw a comparison point within KC, I would probably go with Buck Tui BBQ. The flavors of Southeast Asia are obviously incredibly different from those of the Middle East. The comparison then lies solely in the marriage of international flavors with local barbeque in a way that is both innovative and high-quality. Buck Tui’s Thai-Kansas City hybrid is the perfect blend of two traditions from opposite sides of the world, but that is where all comparisons to KG BBQ end.
HOURS: Thursday - Saturday 11am - 8pm | Sunday 11am - 5pm
WEBSITE: www.kgbbq.com
Franklin Barbecue
900 E. 11th Street, Austin, Texas
While the brisket and beef rib have garnered Franklin Barbecue deserved national praise, it is the smoked turkey that may be without equal. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Texas Monthly once proclaimed that Franklin Barbecue is “serving the best barbecue in the known universe”. While that may be up for debate, most would agree that it serves up the best-known barbeque in the universe. As the first pitmaster to win a coveted James Beard award, Aaron Franklin, and his restaurant, are hard to match in terms of name recognition.
If Austin is a barbeque mecca, then the aqua-and-white striped shack on the east side of town is undoubtedly its greatest shrine. At Franklin’s, the brisket and beef ribs are the Yeezys, with rabid fans forming lines daily for the fresh release. Though the doors don’t open until 11:00 am, both wayfarers and locals know to arrive by 9:00 am if they want the most sought-after cuts. On Fridays and Saturdays, when beef ribs are on the menu, the most dedicated often arrive around dawn!
Waiting in line at Franklin Barbecue is as integral to the experience as the meal itself. Patrons arrive early with folding chairs, decks of cards, thermoses, and coolers, ready to tailgate as they anticipate the feast ahead. Conversations spark among strangers, kids toss footballs and frisbees, and friendships are forged in the bustling queue. A vanguard of Franklin’s staff works their way down the line, straw-polling customers about their planned orders to both prepare their own kitchen and manage diner expectations. They direct those in line to any chairs that may be available, as well as the hydration station. There’s an unspoken code of self-governance – nobody cuts in line, and patrons stay largely true to their polled orders. As diners approach the front door, they pull out sharpies to inscribe signatures or mantras on the wall; a commemoration of their wait for all future diners. For a few fleeting hours, a community is formed, unified in their goal to secure an aqua-colored platter towering high with Franklin’s smoked meats.
On this particular Saturday, customers arrived before 7:00am to get in line for Franklin’s fares. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Once the front door is breached, diners enter the final leg of their journey. For that last half hour, they can only gaze hungrily at the towering alters of brisket, ribs, turkey, and sausage that dominate every table or distract themselves by reading the framed articles on the walls. As they approach the counter, servers greet them warmly, as if they are the first customers they have seen that day. Meats are sliced in full view as platters are built by the pound. Servers hold out each cut, confirming portions with the diner, and sneaking in a few extra slices, bones, or brisket ends for good measure.
Once the hours-long goal is finally realized, all that is left to do is secure a table for the hefty tray, grab some napkins, and snatch a few sheets of butcher paper to use as makeshift plates. While many in Central Texas choose to thumb their noses at the notion of sauce, it would be a shame not to stop by the sauce pumps for a sampling for Franklin’s fierce quartet. Then, it’s time to dig in!
The brisket that made Franklin famous lives up to the hype. Whether from the moist or lean end, each slice is thick, smoky, and rich, featuring a simple yet profound peppery bark. If you’re lucky enough to secure one, the mammoth beef ribs are an otherworldly delight; the combination of gritty, caramelized bark and tender, melt-in-your-mouth beef makes the four hours spent in the parking lot worthwhile. The cheddar jalapeño and smoked Polish links deliver wonderful flavor and mouthfeel. For all the love these Texas staples rightfully receive, the star of the menu may actually be the turkey.
While many claim that Franklin has the best brisket in the country, it’s the turkey that leaves no doubt! The thick, velvety slices of smoked breast meat are sumptuous in a way rarely seen with poultry. The not-so-secret ingredient is a proprietary combination of smoke and butter. As one Franklin server noted “It cooks in a pound of butter. It sits in a vat of butter. We dunk it in butter after we slice it. It’s always in butter.”
Each bite of expertly smoked brisket, indulgent beef rib, and succulent turkey reinforces why Franklin is a must-visit for barbeque lovers. As the brown paper plates become greasy shadows of the meats they once held, diners may find it surreal to step outside with bellies full of food and bags full of leftovers in hand. It can feel like a lifetime since they were part of the same line that greets them on their departure, even though it has only been about an hour. The blend of anticipation and barbeque mastery elevates a visit to Franklin Barbecue from a meal into something more. It is an unforgettable experience that lingers long after the final bite.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? What do you get? Well for starters, get there early! Make a plan, bring some chairs, stock a cooler, and understand that getting the full Franklin experience means waiting in line for at least four hours. When available on the weekends, the Beef Rib is a must! The decadence of these gigantic bones is unlike anything that can be found outside of Texas. As a rule, you should plan on ordering Brisket on the first visit to any Central Texas spot. Considering that the brisket made Franklin a household name, it is doubly true here. While it may seem sacrilege to the more dogmatic Texans, their roster of sauces is outstanding. The Espresso Sauce is unique to Franklin and adds a complexity and boldness to the brisket, while also drawing out its full depth. The Tipsy Texan sandwich is a great way to enjoy Franklin’s brisket, sausages, and that wonderful Espresso Sauce in a singular bite. As great as the beef options are, the buttery, silky Turkey cannot be overlooked. It may be the best version of smoked turkey offered anywhere in the country! When it comes to the sides, the whipped Potato Salad is the strongest of the bunch. The piña colada-flavored Ruby’s Dang Pie is their best dessert. However, if you skip past the sides and desserts for more meats and sauce, nobody would blame you.
So, What’s the Closest I Can Find in KC? In terms of comparable name recognition, Joe’s and Arthur Bryant’s are the two local spots that immediately come to mind. However, they don’t match up in terms of style or offering. While not as well known, Chef J BBQ bears the closest local resemblance to Franklin. On a Friday or Saturday afternoon, it is not uncommon to find a line that extends out the door and around the block of the West Bottoms eatery. The Texas-inspired joint that operates on a sell-out model has quickly gained a reputation for being some of Kansas City’s best. The hefty platters of meats and sides pass the eye test. The craft-smoked briskets, sausages, and turkey meet the standards of Central Texas’s elite pits while the rest of the menu represent top-tier Kansas City staples with a dash of Texan flair. Similarly noteworthy are Point & Flat BBQ and Wolfepack BBQ, both of whose brisket rivals that found at Franklin’s, or any other Austin eatery.
HOURS: Tuesday - Sunday 11am - SELLOUT (roughly 2:30pm)
WEBSITE: www.franklinbbq.com
la Barbecue
2401 E. Cesar Chavez Street, Austin, Texas
An extensive line-up of specialty sandwiches and an emphasis on the side dishes are among the factors that set la Barbecue apart from its Austin contemporaries. Pictured are the El Sancho Loco sandwich and a half-pound beef rib. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
In Spanish, every noun has a gender. So, back in 2012, when LeAnn Mueller and her wife, Ali Clem, named their concept “la Barbecue,” they were making a statement; their barbeque was decidedly female.
In a craft that constantly celebrates its past, everything about la Barbecue reflects Austin as it is today. It holds the distinction of being one of the few female-owned and -operated pits in the state and one of the few LGBT+-owned and -operated ones as well. The vibrant, bustling space—with its canary-yellow barstools, neon signs, and local art on the walls—stands in stark contrast to the aesthetic of many more established joints. Serving oak-smoked meats alongside a curated lineup of beers, cocktails, artisan side dishes, and inventive specialty sandwiches doesn’t quite resemble what many know Central Texas barbeque to be.
Couple all this with its recent, humble food trailer origins, and it would be fair to say that everything about this eastside barbeque joint screams “new blood”. But, beneath the surface, la Barbecue’s bloodlines are surprisingly blue. LeAnn Mueller, who unexpectedly passed away last year, was the granddaughter of the legendary Louie Mueller. Her family’s restaurant in Taylor, Texas, which bears his name, is an institution that stands as a testament to the traditions of Central Texas barbeque. la Barbecue celebrates that lineage and honors those traditions while challenging the conceptions of what barbeque is and can be.
At la Barbecue, the sides are as noteworthy as the meats. The queso-laden Shells & Cheese came strongly recommended. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
The result is a restaurant whose flavors and dining experience feel simultaneously familiar and cutting-edge. la Barbecue is as warm and inviting as the decor is eclectic. The level of service sets the standard for the entire experience. No strangers to waiting in line for barbeque, first-time patrons still cannot help but be surprised by the thoughtful touch of servers taking and fulfilling drink orders for those standing in the queue. Contrary to the “eat it and beat it” principle that seems to drive most Austin ‘ques, la Barbecue’s cocktail program, art-filled dining room, vibrant patio, and promotions like happy hours and live local bands encourage customers to relax and enjoy their meals.
These plates are a bold homage to the Central Texas way of doing things, blending traditional, oak-smoking methods with outside influences and imaginative twists. The melt-in-your-mouth beef brisket, boasting a black pepper-forward rub, takes center stage. When the weekend rolls around, the bone-in beef rib becomes the star. The bones are a nicely charred, hearty cut that is rich, beefy, and smoky. The golden sheen of fat, sable bark, and deep maroon smoke ring are ideal for the cut. A lineup of handcrafted sausages as varied and artful as the pieces on the restaurant’s walls round out the Texan favorites. Carolina-inspired pulled pork and slabs of pork ribs with a sweetness and style reminiscent of Kansas City, only enhance the roster.
While Texas is seemingly all about the meat, la Barbecue directs equal attention to the dishes that complement it. The queso-laden Shells & Cheese, filled with chunks of what can best be described as a house-made Rotel, is a favorite among diners. The freshness of the ingredients in the Chipotle Slaw is quite evident. The dish, which possesses a medium-crunch and medium heat, was among the first on the menu to capture national attention.
That same intentionality applies to the often overlooked accoutrements that many places treat as nothing more than garnishes. Pickled options such as the Spicy Garlic Pickles and the Sweet Pepper Cucumber Kimchi brings a playful flair to each meal with flavors that extend well beyond the borders of the Lone Star State. Sauces that are mustardy, vinegary, and even sweet capture notes of other celebrated barbeque meccas. Even the bread used is a careful decision. Martin’s potato bread and potato rolls are used in lieu of the white bread slices that seem to garner every other Texas plate. The manner in which the pillowy, doughy bread works in concert with la Barbecue’s delectable smoked meats is what makes their collection of specialty sandwiches umatched in terms of both availability and quality.
A restaurant that celebrates the best of Texas while pushing barbeque forward into this new millennium, la Barbecue continues to redefine the barbeque experience. Their signature combination of hospitality, ambiance, and top-notch eats invites all who stop by to savor the rich flavors and experience the welcoming spirit that has come to define Austin.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? There are many who will tell you that this is the best Brisket in Austin and it’s easy to see why. Thick-sliced, black char, and a rich, melty profile makes this meat special. In the Texan tradition, the Jalapeño Cheddar Sausage is also wonderful! However, pairing those two amazing meats with pulled pork on the El Sancho Loco is a winner of a move. The combination of brisket, sausage, and pork with pickled onions on a pillowy potato roll is magical. The flavors and textures are flawlessly married. When available on the weekends, the Beef Rib is a must! Well-rubbed, smoky, rich, and buttery, these bones are everything you can want them to be. Had God tried to pluck such a sensational rib from Adam, he would have put up more of a fight! The house-pickled accoutrements are always a nice addition to any plate. Whether you choose a meat, rib, or sandwich, do not go to la Barbecue without getting a side of the queso-drenched Shells & Cheese!
So, What’s the Closest I Can Find in KC? Mouthwatering Texas-style thick-cut briskets, artisan-crafted smoked meats, sandwiches, and sides that push the envelope of barbeque alongside a top-notch line-up of craft cocktails in a beautiful space that celebrates local art and culture? If that is the experience you are looking for, Wolfepack BBQ in Columbus Park is definitely the play. Like la Barbecue, Wolfepack is a little off the beaten path but quickly gaining a reputation for serving some of the best barbeque in town! Known for having some of the city’s best brisket, their sausages, pork belly, burnt ends, wings, and sides are equally worthy of celebration. Their offerings best reflect the quality and style of la Barbecue in the local scene. In terms of their creative approach, Harp Barbecue, SMOAK Craft Barbecue, Scott’s Kitchen, and Meat Mitch all deserve an honorable mention here.
HOURS: Wednesday - Sunday 11am - 6pm
WEBSITE: www.labarbecue.com
Terry Black’s Barbecue
1003 Barton Springs Road, Austin, Texas
With so many side dishes and meat choices at Terry Black’s, it can be difficult to make a choice. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Composer Gustav Mahler once said that, “Tradition is not the worship of ashes, but the preservation of fire.” At Terry Black’s BBQ, it is through smoke and flame that a proud culinary tradition is not only preserved, but revitalized. While the restaurant opened in 2014, owners Mike Black and Mark Black are the stewards of a storied Texas barbeque lineage that spans generations.
“We were born into the barbecue business, it’s what we knew, it’s in our blood!”
The story begins back in 1932 in Lockhart, Texas, when their great-grandfather Edgar Black, started smoking and selling leftover meats from his friend’s grocery store. The smoked meats garnered so much attention that it led to the creation of Black’s Barbecue. An institution in Texas’s scene, the restaurant has been family-owned for four generations. Some sources even regard the original Black’s in Lockhart as the oldest family-owned barbeque joint in the nation, and perhaps the world.
A little over a decade ago, however, that legacy took a significant turn when a split occurred within the Black family. Mike Black, who learned the family’s methods from his grandfather, Edgar Black, Jr., felt the restaurant was losing sight of its roots. In his view, his uncle Kent had moved away from the traditional open-pit, wood-only smoking and scratch-made sides that made Black’s Barbecue a household name. Compelled to safeguard these family traditions, and seeing an opportunity within Austin’s revived craft barbeque scene, the brothers opened their own location. After Kent Black filed a cease-and-desist over the use of the Black family name, the brothers renamed their restaurant Terry Black’s BBQ, in honor of their father.
The restaurant’s success led the brothers to open a second location in Dallas in 2021. That same year, they announced they would be opening a third location in Lockhart, roughly half a mile from their uncle’s restaurant. It seemed that this new spot represented a homecoming, not only for the brothers, but also a return of their family’s signature barbeque style. Ironically, the original Terry Black’s, born from a family split, has become a source of community, where friends and family gather to enjoy some of Austin’s most popular barbeque.
Of all the incredible eats I tried in Austin, the banana pudding at Terry Black’s may be the most memorable. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
The massive cafeteria-style restaurant, with a patio nearly as large, stands apart from its Austin peers in several ways. While Monday is typically a local barbeque sabbath of sorts, Terry Black’s is open on Mondays, and the other six days of the week. Unlike many others that operate only during the day and on a sell-out model, Terry Black’s stays open past 9:00pm. In a culinary genre where long lines are commonplace, Terry Black’s navigates theirs with a factory-like efficiency, all while providing fantastic service with a smile.
Additionally, the sheer magnitude of the menu is worth noting. The extensive selection of smoked meats, side dishes, and desserts is relatively uncommon. With so many options available, it is easy for one’s eyes to outgrow their stomach, leading to the common dilemma of piling more food onto a tray than one could possibly eat.
A testament to the traditions of Central Texas, Terry Black’s duo of handcrafted sausages are everything they should be and more. The quality of the meat trimmings and ingredients is evident in every bite. Both the Original Sausage and the Jalapeño Cheese Sausage are well-seasoned with a bold blend of spices. The contrast between the sensational snap of the casing and the robust, meaty innards makes these sliced links a genuine delight.
The juicy, full-bodied brisket is exactly what one hopes to find in Austin. The harmony of the moist and lean bits with the hearty ebony bark is something to behold. One should give thanks to any higher power they believe in when their tray is blessed with a few burnt end pieces from the cut. The crispy, blackened, coarse yet tender chunks of brisket with a crimson kiss of smoke are a magnificent meatmallow. The bulky beef ribs are equally exemplary.
An impressive array of grab-and-go side dishes and desserts is anchored by the blissful banana pudding. Airy banana custard, crumbled fairy dust-like vanilla wafers, and a fluff of whipped topping come together to form a dessert whose brilliance lies in its simplicity. The sweet, creamy decadence of this delicate treat is the yang to the bold smoky meats’ yin, exquisitely balancing out every plate.
The coalescence of time-honored Texan barbeque precepts with innovative methods of operation allows Terry Black’s to stand out. For the Black brothers, their family’s customs are deeply intertwined with the traditions of Central Texas barbeque. With each mouthwatering dish, Terry Black’s cultivates a sense of community and familial connection, inviting guests to partake in their cherished lineage in a modern way that ensures the fires of their pit-smoked heritage burn brightly for generations to come.
The 411
So, What Do I Get? Since sides and desserts are the first station you will arrive at, I might as well present the meal in reverse. If you read nothing else, read this: MAKE SURE YOU GRAB THE BANANA PUDDING! It is a banana and vanilla-flavored cloud wrapped in a fantasy where your sweet tooth’s wildest dreams come true. As for the sides, the Mexican Rice is a comforting Tex Mex dish with bold, fresh flavors. The Cream Corn is a real treat, possessing a custardy sweetness that may leave you thinking you got double dessert. As for the meats, of course I have to recommend the Brisket. The beef has a pronounced black bark that works in contrast to the buttery, tender meat in a truly marvelous fashion. Similarly, if you have others to share with, the nearly two-pound Beef Ribs are a must. This may be the best place I encountered in Austin for sausages. The Original Sausage and Cheddar Jalapeño both offer a pleasing snap, wonderful texture, and flavors that will keep you coming back for more.
So, What’s the Closest I Can Find in KC? While the creative spirit that drives Harp Barbecue made it worthy of mention when speaking about la Barbecue, it is the Kansas City doppelganger to Terry Black’s. Often credited with bringing the craft style to Kansas City, the heaping platters of wood-smoked meats Harp offers earned them the nickname “Traytown”. Recently relocated from Raytown to Overland Park, Harp is best-known for their heavenly, carefully-smoked briskets with a salt and pepper rub, thick-sliced to order. Additionally, an unmatched diversity of inventive house-crafted sausages, Tennessee-inspired pulled pork, and Kansas City ribs round out a wood-smoked lineup that embodies the best of multiple regions. With an impressive collection of side dishes and their own banana pudding to boot, Harp compares to Terry Black’s quite favorably. Another similar spot is 3Halves Brewpub, whose Meat Mile Platter gives you the chance to have a loaded tray of Texas-style brisket, top notch meats, and amazing sides.
Now, if you do find that the banana pudding is what captured your attention (Did I mention how good it is!?), it may also be worth venturing to Chef J, or giving the award-winning version at Dunn Deal a try. Although, the closest local comparison to Terry Black’s delicious dessert is likely the Banana Cream Pie from Rye.
HOURS: Sunday - Thursday 10:30am - 9:30pm | Friday - Saturday 10:30am - 10pm
WEBSITE: www.terryblacksbbq.com/austin/
Without reflection, a pilgrimage loses all meaning.
My own quest for barbeque enlightenment in Central Texas was about expanding my own horizons and achieving personal growth (to match the outer growth that delicious smoked meats can bring). Without careful contemplation, such a journey would be incomplete.
As it does in Kansas City, the heart of Texas beats fiercely with a passion for barbeque. Austin’s reputation for an overabundance of exceptional barbeque establishments has been so widely propagated that it seemed unlikely reality could ever meet expectation. To my surprise, Austin not only lived up to its reputation; I was astonished by the ways in which it exceeded it.
In Austin, the smell of smoldering oak is inescapable with nearly every ward holding a temple where congregants can commune around barbeque. Each pitmaster weaves together regional doctrine, cultural influences, and familial traditions into meals that tell stories which are uniquely theirs.
Thick, charred slices of melt-in-your-mouth brisket. An imaginative array of smoked links, hand-crafted by sausagesmith savants, bearing a divine snap that only Thanos could counter. Decadent, brontosaurus-sized beef ribs capable of inducing nirvana with a single bite. These are the pillars on which the Central Texan faith is built.
The rafters of Franklin Barbecue leave no mystery as to my loyalties. PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
While this was my first foray into Austin’s scene, it was not necessarily my introduction to their dogma. The cornerstone of Kansas City’s capital claim has always been its ability to specialize in (almost) everything that barbeque has to offer. The pursuit of smoked meat perfection makes this a city that has long been open to blending other styles with our own. It should come as no surprise then that, in recent years, many tenets of Austin ‘que have made their way here.
For many Kansas Citians, Harp Barbecue offered the first taste of offset-smoked, thick-sliced briskets and artisan sausages. Purveyors like Jousting Pigs, Fox & Fire, and Chef J soon followed. These days, the likes of Harp and Chef J, along with 3Halves, Dunn Deal, Night Goat, Point & Flat, Scott’s Kitchen, SMOAK Craft, and Wolfepack, regularly serve briskets and sausages that mirror the very best of Austin in terms of quality, flavor, and style. They do so while boasting the flexibility, offering the relative affordability, and excelling at the traditional fares that have come to define the Kansas City scene.
Now, make no mistake—not every Central Texas flavor is available here. No local establishments are offering a smoked beef bone that compares to the marvelous ones seemingly available on every block in Austin. The smoked lamb cuts from KG BBQ and the mind-melting smoked turkey from Franklin Barbecue are without KC contemporaries. Similarly, there are iconic Kansas City flavors and cuts with which Austin offers no comparison.
Even now, as my taste buds yearn for those Texas flavors that Kansas City cannot match, I reflect on this journey with appreciation, gratitude, and reverence.
My appreciation is for the Central Texan style, and for those aspects of Austin which have migrated to Kansas City. Experiencing the deservedly hyped briskets and sausages of this region —and realizing similar flavors can be found in my own backyard — invoked a sense of admiration for both places. In cities like these, barbeque transcends sustenance. Cuts of meat and wood become the medium through which heritage is preserved, communities are celebrated, and regional identity is strengthened.
My gratitude is for Austin’s unforgettable flavors, especially the earth-shattering beef ribs — which may be the best meat I have ever tasted — and the overwhelming hospitality extended to me as an outsider.
In observance of Kansas City’s unwritten rule of traveling, I logically wore a “KC” hat to every single place I visited. Fellow patrons in line wanted to chat about our contrasting barbeque styles, which made the waits fly by. I feel especially blessed by the warmth, and complimentary burnt ends, that seemed to greet me along the way.
At each stop, those prepping my platters, who caught sight of my hat, took special care to slice off the crispy, blackened, burnt edges of the brisket and add them to my plate with a thoughtful sentiment of, “We know how much you guys love these.” I imagine it was not too different than how Arthur Bryant himself did it all those years ago.
But does Austin barbeque love me back? PHOTO CREDIT - disKCovery
Finally, I have reverence for Austin and everything that this amazing city, and the surrounding region, has to offer the world of barbeque. I am still in awe of having finally experienced a city whose barbeque prowess (in terms of number of establishments and overall quality) rivals that of the place I proudly call home.
Barbeque’s true spirit lies in its ability to bring people together and feed both body and soul. While I may not have known the exact goal when this odyssey began, it is clear that it accomplished exactly what was intended. On some level, I foolishly thought I had tasted all the great flavors that barbeque has to offer. Austin shattered that notion and reminded me of the importance of expanding my own horizons. In doing so, I gained an even greater appreciation for the barbeque mecca I know all too well, and this one that is newest to me.
And while I remain steadfast in my own goal to spread the gospel of Kansas City ‘que, and confident in this city’s claim as the craft’s World Capital, I can now say with unwavering conviction:
Austin barbeque, “I love you so much.”
Have you experienced Central Texas barbeque? How about any of these places specifically? How did it compare to KC and other barbeque meccas? As always, share your thoughts in the comments!
