Devan’s (Double) Dozen: BBQ Edition, Part I
The Quintessential Crown Jewels of the Q Capital
Published May 1, 2024. Updated May 16, 2024.
NOTE FROM THE WRITER: In recognition of National BBQ Month, I decided to publish the first-ever double edition of Devan’s Dozen, ranking the barbeque joints that I perceive to be the Top 24 in the KC Metro right now. This part was published on May 1. Part II was published on National Barbeque Day, May 16. Due to factors that came to light between the publication of Parts I & II, I felt the need to shuffle some of the rankings to more accurately portray my opinions on these places. As a result, there are places that were originally in Part II that are now in Part I, and places that got added into this part on May 16, 2024.
Every time someone asks me if I have ever been to [INSERT KANSAS CITY BARBEQUE RESTAURANT HERE], I begin to feel a bit like Johnny Cash.
“I’ve been everywhere, man.”
Over the past year, I have visited practically every barbeque restaurant, joint, dive, pop-up, stand, and concept in “this here land”. Those who know me, know that. So, I know what is actually being asked. It is less about whether I have been to a place and more about what my opinion is on said restaurant. Rarely do I go more than a couple of days without getting the question.
After all, this is Kansas City. Here, talking about barbeque comes as naturally as discussing the weather. Standing in line, hopping in a rideshare, or riding in an elevator, the former is just as likely to come up as the latter.
While barbeque is a widely accepted form of small talk, broaching the conversation can be a dangerous game. Any online post or message board on the topic can quickly devolve into chaos. The spot that one person swears by may be the place that another swears they will never return. Similar to sports fandom or political affiliation, many Cowtowners have strong feelings about the barbeque(s) they support. I know I do.
I have always treated the question of “the best place” or “my favorite place” as a precarious one. I think some of my newer readers have begun to notice. After a 16 month deep dive into Kansas City ‘que last year, my refusal to crown a best restaurant was a glaring omission to many. I had provided nearly all the barbeque answers except to the one question Fountain City Foodies were most frequently asking.
But, can you blame me? It is such a loaded question! “Best” can be so difficult to qualify.
Beyond the mind-blowing bounty of top-notch options available here in the BBQ Capital, there are so many factors to consider. The primary consideration has to be the pedigree of smoked meats. Yet, an appraisal of the sandwiches, sides, and sauces is equally essential.
A large variety is always desirable in a menu, but, very rarely is quantity a clear indicator of quality. As I have expressed prior, I often think of a menu much like a résumé. I am not nearly as concerned with the length of it as I am with what’s on it.
The level of service, accessibility, general atmosphere, value for the price, flexibility of the menu, uniqueness of signature offerings, and overall atmosphere all have to be factored in as well. Any question of, “which is best?” is almost always a purely subjective one. It is an opinion shaped by personal priorities, affinities, and experiences. In that regard, barbeque is no different.
This article is no different.
Perhaps it is Todd Johns, the proprietor of the now-closed Plowboys Barbeque, who always puts it best. “All lists are bullshit,” he likes to say, “unless you are on it.”
Acknowledging that any kind of ranking puts me at risk of being declared “bullshit” by many, I still feel the obligation to take that chance. After all, there is no person in Kansas City who has visited as many of this metro’s barbeque joints over the past year (or overall) as I have.
However, to lessen the outcry, and because I LOVE a good schtick, I figured that going “24 in ‘24” for National Barbeque Month seemed a fantastic idea. For the first time ever, I am doubling up on my traditional format to feature the top 24 barbeque restaurants* in the metro. I am also splitting that list into two parts.
Why two parts? Primarily, because it would be a disservice to feature any of these amazing eateries in a such a full-length article and risk them being unfairly overlooked. My seemed resistance to brevity already carries that risk by halving the list. But mostly, it’s because I can.
Clearly, the first ever Devan’s Double Dozen^ allows me to feature twice the BBQ joints and allows me to stretch out this content into a pair of articles. Even still, dozens of great restaurants will fail to make the cut. In an unparalleled barbeque mecca such as this, that’s always the reality.
Regardless, you can feel confident that the list below, and the second part to follow, features the very best that the World Capital of BBQ has to offer.
24. Wabash BBQ and Blues Garden
646 Kansas City Avenue S., Excelsior Springs, Missouri
For nearly twenty years, Wabash BBQ and Blues Garden has been a beloved landmark by many in Excelsior Springs and the surrounding Northland. Part music venue and part barbeque joint, the historic train depot offers up a quartet of experiences. Within the historic station itself sits three entirely different dining experiences with a tiny kitchen sandwiched between the three. What appears to be the main entrance brings would-be eaters into a space that has all the look, feel, and charm of a small-town diner or cafe from decades ago. Around the side, there is a larger dining room that feels more like a commissary, while further in is a dark, divey, sports bar. Regardless of which room diners choose, the same award-winning menu is available within each. Out back, when in operation, the picnic table filled beer garden offers live blues, country, and classic rock for special events. While they are known for barbeque and music, Wabash always celebrates the history of the building they occupy. The railroad history plays into the branding and their entire menu. The daily specials are called “Discount Fares”, the appetizers simply are “All Aboard”, the specialty sandwiches are deemed “Conductor’s Favorites” and the side dishes are famously referred to as “Signals and Switches”. The dish for which they are probably best known is their half-chicken meal dubbed the “Sidecar Chicken”. Whether you’re in the mood for a bit of barbeque, music, or just some Excelsior Springs history, Wabash serves up all three daily.
DD’s Go-To**: An order of Corn Nuggets with House Ranch for dipping to start things off. The Sidecar Chicken with French fries and BBQ Beans OR The Depot (combo sandwich on a hoagie)with Ham and Turkey .
23. Brobecks Barbeque
4615 Indian Creek Parkway, Overland Park, Kansas
In the current climate, it may not seem that rare, but when Brobecks Barbeque opened up in Overland Park back in 2007, their practice of serving up meats unsauced took several by surprise. While common practice in Texas and the Carolinas, this marked a clear deviation from the Kansas City tradition. It was not that the self-proclaimed “Best Little Smokehouse in Kansas City” did not offer satisfactory sauces. In fact, their combo of a Kansas City-inspired “Barbeque Sauce” and their Mustard Sauce from the Carolina tradition are considered some of KC’s best. It was that Brobecks had the confidence that their dry-rubbed meats didn’t need the sauce, regardless of however amazing their sauce can be. With roots in the Appalachian tradition, Brobecks quickly became known as a place for pulled pork, pork ribs, and their Mustard Sauce, the latter of which had not really been seen in Kansas City prior. However, not to be confined to their Carolina roots, Brobecks is also a place known for the Kansas City delicacy that is the beef burnt end. Originally began in Stillwell, Kansas as the Stillwell Smokehouse, Brobecks brings a much-needed country charm and Southern flair to Overland Park, with the food, decor, and service to match.
DD’s Go-To: An order of the Smoked Ham Salad with house-made chips every single time. A dollop of the famed Mustard Sauce really adds something to this unique app. For dinner, I go with a Burnt End and (babyback) Ribs Combo with Mac & Cheese and Baked Beans OR a Smokey Joe (sandwich with a blend of chopped smoked meats tossed in sauce) with Steak Fries and plenty of Mustard Sauce on the side.
22. Snead’s Bar-B-Q
1001 E. 171st Street, Belton, Missouri
For many, Snead’s Bar-B-Q may be the most historic Kansas City barbeque joint that they have never been to. For those around Belton, the red triangle sign and the giant “S” etched into the tan concrete wall are iconic. In 1956, Bill Snead built the pit and restaurant on the corner of his family’s farm. Over the years, he poured himself into the restaurant, and expanded it into the 200-seat dining room that still sits outside Belton today. While Bill has been gone for 30 years now, his original recipes still persist. Smoky indulgent meats, bold flavorful sauces, homestyle sides, unforgettable desserts, tasty fried appetizers, small town hospitality, and massive portions continue to make Snead’s a Kansas City institution and a destination restaurant.
DD’s Go-To: A Half and Half Plate of Beef Brownies (burnt ends) and Ham Brownies OR The Cowboy (with Turkey and Sausage) with a side of Hand-Cut French Fries and a side of BBQ Pit Baked Beans. No matter what, I have to save room for the pecan-laden Bread Pudding!
21. BB’s Lawnside Blues & BBQ
1205 E. 85th Street, Kansas City, Missouri
A century ago, the sounds of soulful music and the smoke of sensational barbeque filled the air of Kansas City’s Eastside. Nowadays, about five miles south of there, that tradition continues at BB’s Lawnside Blues & BBQ. Lindsay and Jo Shannon began serving up hickory-smoked barbeque with a side of live blues over 30 years ago. The musical acts perform, at least, four nights a week and were originally booked by Lindsay, a former DJ and founding member of the Kansas City Blues Society. The walls are covered with murals and concert posters depicting blues legends. The meats are impeccably smoked by Grand Champion pitmaster Mike Nickle. The 75 year old pit where he works his magic is lined with granite, pulled up from the very downtown streets where jazz and ‘que once walked hand-in-hand. Jo’s Lousiana recipes and Lindsay’s Kansas City influence shaped a menu that exemplifies the best of both worlds. In recent years, those famed Nickle Boys, Mike and Jimmy, have taken over B.B.’s but the tradition of quality BBQ paired with live music continues on. Here, in Marlborough Heights, the past meets the present, the Gulf Shore meets the Heartland, as a bayou roadhouse delivers a one-of-a-kind experience that is wholly Kansas City.
DD’s Go-To: An order of Wings tossed in Sweet Heat Peach Sauce OR Big Bertha’s Onion Rings to kick things off. Then, the 1/2 Pound Hickory Smoked Meat Platter with Sliced Beef, Turkey, Skillet Fries, and Pit Beans.
This entry was updated on May 21, 2024 based on new information.
20. Louisburg BBQ & Brews
2 W. Amity Street, Louisburg, Kansas
Not far from the town’s famed cider mill, sits Louisburg BBQ & Brews + Pizza. Formerly known as “Big L’s”, Louisburg BBQ has been serving up some of the county’s best barbeque, coldest beers, and tastiest specialty pizzas since 2017. Beyond their variety and quality, it is a dedication to friendly, prompt, attentive service that has allowed this barbeque joint to continue to grow. There is also a small-town charm and feel to the beautiful and cozy dining space. The booths and chairs may be the most comfortable in Kansas City’s barbeque scene. Cattle ear tags are used to mark the table numbers while the deer heads on the wall bear dog tags showing they have been affectionately named for Santa’s reindeer. Meanwhile, the restaurant does offer a full bar program, plenty of televisions for sports fans, and a pizza oven serving up a full line-up of pizzas in addition to their barbeque. Unique in Kansas City’s scene, is the ability to enjoy many of their smoked meats on a plate, a bun, or on a pizza. Their signature sandwich, The Spare Tire, comes as a triple-decker sandwich or a pie. This is not a traditional barbeque pizza though as the restaurant actually uses a house--blend of their own barbeque sauce and their marinara to create a fused barbeque pizza sauce that is wholly theirs. Their ribs have been recognized as some of the metro’s best as has their pulled pork and cheesy corn. Whether looking for an appetizer, a sandwich, a dinner, a pizza, or just a drink, this is a barbeque joint that has something for everyone.
DD’s Go-To: A BBQ Combo Plate with Pork Spare Ribs and Pulled Pork, Cheesy Corn, and BBQ Beans OR The Spare Tire (sandwich with Sliced Smoked Ham, Brisket, White American Cheese, and Onion Straws)with French Fries. Also I have an obsession with the buttery Texas Toast that comes standard with every combo plate.
19. Black Belt Bar-B-Q
(at Fairfield Inn & Suites) 409 Metropolitan Avenue, Leavenworth, Kansas
What we now know as barbeque was born in the Caribbean. Indigenous tribes would slow roast meats over a wooden framework, flavoring it with their own marinades and spice mixtures. For at least one Kansas City barbeque joint, that Caribbean tradition directly shapes their own approach to barbeque. Originally began as a Westport restaurant in the mid-90s, Black Belt Bar-B-Q is a small, family-run operation that infuses Kansas City barbeque with Jamaican jerk flavors. The result is mouthwatering, charred, smokey meats packed with a marvelous medley of flavors. Operating out of a small white trailer, Black Belt can be found in the parking of Leavenworth’s Fairfield Inn & Suites five days a week (outside of the winter months!). Even before the bold red letters on the marquis catch your eye, the heavenly smoke that fills the lot will certainly captivate your nose. Since there are no tables and chairs, all orders are strictly to-go. Speaking of on-the-go, this is also true of Black Belt who are a frequent feature at fairs, festivals, and other gatherings around town. Before popping in for a bite, it may be worth calling the front desk at the Fairfield Inn & Suites to ask them if the trailer is currently parked outside.
DD’s Go-To: Ask for the Two Meat Plate with Jerk Chicken and Jerk Pork with Baked Beans and Potato Salad on the side. Those meats do pack a walloping punch but it is a spectacular spice born of flavor and intention. If spice-averse, consider the Rib Tips or the Smoked Turkey Drumstick.
18. Jazzy B’s Diner
320 SW Blue Parkway, Lee’s Summit, Missouri
Four years removed from an 0 - 11 season, the Northwest Missouri State University Bearcats did the unthinkable in 1998. They capped off the first 15 - 0 season in NCAA Division II football history. With that title, and another to follow in 1999, defensive lineman Brandon Simpson and his teammates set the standard that created a dynasty. These days, Brandon Simpson can be found at Jazzy B’s in Lee’s Summit. Simpson traded the gridiron for the pit years ago, but that standard for perfection still persists. A part of the community since 2016, Jazzy B’s opened its current location in January of last year. Fusing together Cajun favorites, Southern fare, and Kansas City barbeque, Simpson and his team have set the bar for what barbeque in Lee’s Summit can, and should, be. With their innovative smoked meatless options and fully customizable platters, the menu offers a versatility and flexibility that is frequently desired, but not often found, in the craft. As he always has, Simpson and his team continue to show that excellence can come from anywhere, and be for anyone.
DD’s Go-To: The Adult Grilled Cheese with Pulled Pork and a side of Apple Jicama Slaw OR 3 Meats and 3 Sides Platter with Burnt Ends, Wings, Sausage, Garlic Cheesy Corn, Miles Davis Baked Beans, and Jazzy Fries.
17. Hawg Jaw Que & Brew
900 Swift Street, North Kansas City, Missouri
In 2014, Bud and Marlye Laub sold their Riverside barbeque joint to Nick and Sam Silvio. A few years later, in 2017, the brothers moved Hawg Jaw Que & Brew to its current Northtown location. Hailed by The Pitch as Kansas City’s “Best New BBQ” back in 2012, the brothers kept in place so many of the recipes and things that the Laubs did so well while making their own adjustments. They tinkered with some of the rubs, introduced a more medium sauce with a tangy profile, The Boss Man, to balance out the line-up, went to a cherry wood smoke, added a few sides, and started using 21-day aged Angus Beef. The Smoked Prime Rib dinner on Friday nights has become incredibly popular. These small improvements on the Laub’s original recipes and the Silvios’ menu additions have allowed Hawg Jaw to grow into one of Kansas City’s best barbeques, long after the novelty of being “new” has worn off.
DD’s Go-To: An Irish Hawg (sandwich with Smoked Corned Beef, Smoked Sausage, Swiss Cheese, Spicy Sauerkraut, and Thousand Island on Marble Rye) with sides of Crispy Seasoned Fries and Brisket Chili. While their incredible barbeque sauces are a great play, the homemade Smoked Ketchup is a must for the fries. Although, the Hawg Trough Sampler with a side of Smoked Mac-n-Cheese OR Sweet Potato Fries is a nice way to sample Hawg Jaw’s best.
16. Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque
1727 Brooklyn Avenue, Kansas City, Missouri
“It has long been acknowledged that the single best restaurant in the world is Arthur Bryant’s.” Journalist and food writer Calvin Trilling spent decades doting on Arthur Bryant’s Barbeque, and the man behind it all. Early in the series’ award-winning run, titular gaffer Ted Lasso made it clear that Arthur Bryant’s sauce, “is some of the best barbeque sauce in Kansas City which makes it some of the best barbeque sauce in the world!” There is not much that can be written about this particular BBQ titan that has not already been said. By now, many in Kansas City are familiar with the story. While it was Henry Perry who brought barbeque, and its restaurant scene, to Kansas City, it was one of his apprentices, Arthur Bryant, who created and proliferated what became this city’s signature style. Since the late 1940’s, the restaurant on the corner of 18th and Brooklyn has been a destination for dignitaries, professional athletes, celebrities, and humble barbeque aficionados alike. While Mr. Bryant left us decades ago, and the restaurant has had multiple owners since his passing, the iconic eatery continues to honor Bryant’s, and this city’s, finest traditions.
DD’s Go-To: A Sliced Pork and Turkey Combo Sandwich OR a slab of Baby Back Ribs with a side of Arthur’s Fries. All are best enjoyed with the Sweet Heat President’s Choice sauce. The Baked Beans and Potato Salad are other noteworthy sides.
15. Hayward’s Pit Bar B Que
10901 W. 75th Street, Shawnee, Kansas
It would be easy to look at Hayward’s Pit Bar B Que and point out everything that has changed since 2014. In the past ten years, the restaurant moved from Overland Park to Shawnee. The ownership has changed hands. What is more remarkable, is all the ways that Hayward’s has managed to stay the same. The rub and sauce recipes have not changed since Hayward Spears, Sr. opened up shop in 1972. The Arkansas native brought his own sense of hospitality, flair, and even spice to Kansas City barbeque. In 2014, Spears sold the business to former employee Eric Sweeney who has carefully guarded, continued, and built upon the legacy of Hayward’s for a new generation. Everything about getting a plate at Hayward’s feels like classic Kansas City. For 52 years, the people of Johnson County have gone to Hayward’s expecting to get a first-rate barbeque dinner from a small family-owned and operated restaurant. That’s not changing anytime soon.
DD’s Go-To: One of the burnt ends platters. Either the Ribs & Burnt Ends Platter OR Burnt Ends & Wings Platter OR Ends & Ends Platter (beef burnt ends and pork belly burnt ends) with Mac & Cheese and Onion Rings. The Sweet Potato Waffle Fries and Fried Okra are also staples.
14. Q39 ^^
1000 W. 39th Street, Kansas City, Missouri
Q39 spent the past month celebrating their 10th anniversary. That number doesn’t feel quite right. It is rather astonishing how quickly this “new blood” became as much of an institution as the likes of Jack Stack, Joe’s, Bryant’s, and Gates. More remarkable, is how they did it. In a town where barbeque is sacred, Q39 rose to their current station by breaking the rules that many here hold most dear. It all began with the late Rob Magee, a CIA-certified*** chef who kicked down the door and dared to push the envelope of what barbeque could be in a city filled with some of the craft’s harshest critics. The industrial chic dining room, pristine smokers, and linen napkins were enough to make the hipsters and purists groan. But the hickory-smoked meats finished on oak-fired grills, satiated the most stubborn of taste buds, melting the hardest of hearts. After Magee lost his battle with colon cancer in 2021, Philip Thompson, another classically trained chef, took the reins. For this British pitmaster, his most recent ribbon came not on the competitive barbeque circuit but last month in Kansas City’s Taste of Elegance competition, where he took the top prize. Like Magee, Thompson has shown a willingness to incorporate flavors and styles into Kansas City barbeque that no one previously thought of. In a relatively short time, he has proven the perfect successor to Magee. Thompson preserves those recipes which Q39 has always done best while embodying the sense of innovation that makes this BBQ joint what it is. From a traditional standpoint, there’s not a lot about this Midtown favorite that seems to make sense. Just one bite of their award-winning brisket makes none of that seem to matter.
DD’s Go-To: An order of Spiced Onion Straws for the table, ALWAYS. For the main event, the Certified Angus Beef Brisket Plate with Apple Slaw and Potato Salad OR Mr. Burns (sandwich) with Mac ‘N Cheese OR Smoked Beef Brisket Poutine with a side of Apple Slaw. They also do a killer Smoked Chicken.
13. Blind Box BBQ ^^
13214 W. 62nd Terrace, Shawnee, Kansas
While the blindfolded pig with boxing gloves that dominates their branding tells a different story, the Blind Box BBQ name was actually born of the competition circuit. It refers to the “blind boxes” that competitive barbeque teams turn into judges. That hasn’t stopped Blind Box from embracing all the prizefighting references that the double entendre lends itself to. Their line-up of top tier sauces is one of the city’s best. It includes the Bare Knuckle, Southpaw, TKO, and the Sucker Punch. It makes sense given that in the decade since they opened, this Shawnee staple has quietly grown into one of KCQ’s heavy-hitters. They even have opened a second location inside of Nebraska Furniture Mart at Village West. What regulars love about Blind Box is the 1-2 punch of being an upscale restaurant in terms of the space, menu quality, and cocktail selection while also being a down-to-earth barbeque joint when it comes to the service, value, and overall vibe. Such a combo is sure to knock anyone off their feet.
DD’s Go-To: The Sunday Brunch Buffet offers a rare and affordable chance to try a wide-sampling of this barbeque menu alongside inspired breakfast dishes. Any other day, it’s the Loaded Mac with Burnt Ends OR a Combo Plate with STL Spare Ribs, Pulled Pork, Corn Bake, and Bourbon Baked Beans.
“Ladies and gentleman, there will be a 15-day intermission during which time you are free to leave the website.”
Lucky 13 is where we must end, for now. I know it must be frustrating. Cliffhangers always are.
At this point, I know the question that many of you are asking is, “Why was my favorite place left off the list?” Or perhaps the more accurate question is, “Was my favorite place left off the list?”
You are wondering if I disregarded it altogether, or if a higher ranking, and inclusion in the coveted top dozen awaits. Frustration may be setting in because it may be difficult to pass judgment on me as a writer, or this list, until the other boot drops. At this point, there is no way of knowing if I have perceptually dissed your favorite barbeque, or will soon bestow upon it the highest of compliments. (Unless of course, I included your favorite spot on this list with far too low a ranking in your eyes. Then, cries of balderdash will surely be heard.)
I must admit, when I first made the decision to split the article in half, this conundrum had not occurred to me. Now that I do realize it, I am obviously amused. In hindsight, it was another great reason the halve the list. Now, anticipation mounts to see if you favorite spot will be included (and where) or if, as the Plowboys Pitmaster would put it, this list is “bullshit” in your eyes.
Only time will tell.
While you wait, consider trying one of the places on this list that you haven’t been to! If you have visited them all (big time kudos!), consider dropping by the one you haven’t visited in far too long. After all it’s National Barbeque Month. There’s no better time to grab some ‘que. And there are far worse ways to pass the time than with a plate of some of the BBQ Capital’s best right in front of you.
DISCLAIMER: Any personal relationships that may exist with restaurant proprietors had no influence on these rankings. Complimentary food was not accepted in exchange for inclusion on this list.
Those Pesky Endnotes I Often Insist Upon
* To be considered a “barbeque restaurant” and in these rankings, it was vital that a barbeque have a brick and mortar presence, or at least a regularly occurring location. For any trucks, pop-ups, or concepts, it was important that they keep consistent hours in a consistent location(s) that does not require paid entry (such as a stadium). As a result, there is a handful of tremendous pitmasters who I consider elite that were not considered for these rankings.
^ Devan’s Dozen as in “me”. “How was this list determined?” Me. “Who voted on this?” Me. “What were the parameters?” Mine. “Well you need to visit…” Let me stop you right there, I did. And it didn’t make the list. That’s the nature of these things. This really is the joy of having my own column with my name right up top there, the rules are mine to make.
** For my expanded recommendations and “buyer bewares”, be sure to check out the one and only BBQ Bible! You can also see the past “Devan’s Dozen” list they have been included on and which “Fountain City Superlatives” they have won.
^^ For restaurants that have multiple locations, this denotes the original, and typically suggested, location.
*** No, not that CIA. The Culinary Institute of America. But whatever version you were imagining, starring Kiefer Sutherland in the biopic, is probably so much cooler.
Which of these places listed is your favorite? Which are you looking forward to trying? What spot did you expect to be included? What spot’s absence in Part II would most upset you? Let me hear it in the comments!