Head for the Hill
Published April 18, 2024
On a scorching Sunday morning in July of 2018, my friend Tyler and I made our way to a church parking lot in Kansas City, Kansas to watch the FIFA World Cup Final.
This may seem like an unusual choice. After all, the watch parties that take place in the KC Live! Block for US men’s and women’s World Cup matches are so well-known that they regularly feature on national television broadcasts of the games. Then again, the United States was not involved in this match. In fact, they had failed to qualify for the tournament at all! Truth be told, Tyler and I had planned to be in Russia for some of the tournament’s games but a collapse by the U.S. in qualifying play had put a damper on our plans so here we were, cracking open a few cold beers outside of a church in KCK.
We were far from the only ones! In fact, our plans had been to enjoy the match in the basement of this particular cathedral, but when we arrived two hours before kick, hundreds of people were already there, wearing their blue-and-white checkered best. This particular championship was between France and the small nation of Croatia. For a long time, this place, St. John the Baptist Catholic Church, has been the epicenter of a vibrant Croatian community tucked way in Strawberry Hill. The aforementioned church basement, which includes a bar and six bowling lanes, is a place where this community passes on and preserves their proudest traditions.
So as Croatia made a surprising run to the final of the world’s largest sporting event, it made sense that this would be the gathering spot for each and every game. On this day, we just hoped to cheer for the underdogs and see these passionate fans support their squad. We could not imagine a better place to watch the match! And while Croatia would ultimately fall to France by a score of 4 - 2, it was still an unbelievable celebration and eye-opening cultural experience.
For my friend Tyler, who’d had the idea to catch the match there, this was his first time really venturing into the neighborhood. In the years since, I have found that he’s hardly alone. In 2022, when I proposed that Strawberry Hill be part of the Kansas City-themed Monopoly board, another friend had asked me, “What’s a Strawberry Hill?”.
Sitting on the bluffs above the Kansas and Missouri Rivers, Strawberry Hill is named for the vines of wild strawberries that once covered the hillsides. (While strawberries no longer grow here publicly, it has been said that a few residents still tend to wild strawberry patches in their backyards.) During the late 1800s and early 1900s, the area was settled by immigrants from the Slavic nations, notably Croatia, who were originally drawn to the West Bottoms by the opportunities that the railroad and the meatpacking industry, centered around the Livestock Exchange, provided. After major flooding forced these families to relocate, they sought higher ground and Strawberry Hill was settled. Over the course of the century that followed, the neighborhood faced a number of crises, trials, and tribulations but still, they persevered, never forsaking the traditions of their homelands while forging a unique cultural neighborhood identity of their own. In recent years, many have continued to emigrate to this neighborhood with many new residents coming from largely Latin American nations and backgrounds. This has added to the richness and diversity of this particular neighborhood, and Kansas City, Kansas as a whole.
Over the years, I have grown to love this particular slice of Kansas. In many ways, Strawberry Hill is the soul of KCK. There are beautiful homes, wonderful people, incredible stories, and fantastic small businesses. It is such a spirited community and a wonderful part of our city. While the Slavic influences still run deep, this neighborhood is a real melting pot. The neighborhood is ever-evolving. And while some of my favorites (like Chentes on the Hill and Mockingbird Lounge) are now gone, there are still so many great spots in Strawberry Hill. The notion that any local would be unaware of such a terrific district is something I can no longer abide.
So if you’re willing to take the leap and head to a new part of town, maybe you will never again ask, “What’s a Strawberry Hill” but instead ask yourself, “How did I ever live here without going there?”
Below are a few of the places and traditions that make this neighborhood a worthwhile destination.
Strawberry Hill Bakery
7226 W. Frontage Road, Merriam, Kansas
This may seem an odd inclusion. In an article highlighting the greatness of this small, eclectic neighborhood, why include a business that’s way over in Merriam? Because it’s tough to tell the story of Strawberry Hill without Strawberry Hill Bakery. Around 1903, the ladies of a local Croatian family, who had brought the old-world baking tradition with them, began baking loaves of povitica for their friends, family members, neighbors, and respected community members for the holidays. Povitica is an Eastern European rolled or swirled bread-like pasty that is, somehow both incredibly light like a croissant but also, super dense like pound cake. The swirled, flaky layers of dough are often packed with fillings such as walnuts, fruits, or other sweet flavors. In fact, Strawberry Hill claims that their povitica has a 3:1 ration of fillings to dough, and that may be conservative!
As word spread and demand grew, the operation grew into a full-fledged business by the mid-1900s and relocated to a commercial space within the neighborhood. In recent years, the popularity of the Croatian treat out of Strawberry Hill has soared to unbelievable heights, especially during the holiday season. As one of a very small handful of bakeries (reportedly less than a dozen) in the world that commercially offer the treat, the bakery now sells over half a million loaves per year. So, in 2012, the bakery moved to their current space in Merriam as they outgrew the neighborhood where they had grown up. Still owned and operated by the same family, the company may have physically left the neighborhood but the neighborhood has never left the bakery. They still are an important part of the story and fabric of this neighborhood and their povitica, Old World coffee cakes, and other products are still found and served at multiple establishments within the neighborhood.
DD’s Pro Tip: While you can order online or pick up your povitica order in Merriam, there are a number of businesses in Strawberry Hill that still carry this product. Most notably, Krizman’s Sausage, a neighborhood butcher shop since 1939, regularly carries some of the more popular flavors of the Croatian sweet bread. Whether online or from a vendor, be sure to get orders in early around the major Catholic holidays (like Christmas and Easter) as the povitica is sure to sell out quickly!
Johnnie’s on Seventh
55 S. 7th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
It is almost impossible to talk about Kansas City’s dive bar scene or KCK without making mention of Johnnie’s on Seventh. Since 1934, this shotgun-style bar has been a gathering place for locals. And when a patron takes stock of the checkerboard tiled floor, permanently affixed bar stools, or the bar itself, it would be easy to deduce that not a whole lot has changed over the past ninety years. When the local teams, or Croatian soccer, play you can be certain that the TVs will be tuned to the action with the sound on. This is the kind of spot where a cold beer or pour of whiskey is always waiting. While Johnnie’s does have a dingy, divey feel that may not be for all, it bursts with a small town hospitality sure to transport you to another place in another time. So find a seat, order a cold Busch Light, and catch the game. By the time you’ve had yourself a couple of drinks, you will likely find you have also picked up a few new friends.
DD’s Pro TIp: LOOK UP! The ceiling is lined with photos of famous men and women named Johnny (or some variation there of such as John, Jonathan, Juan, or Jean). The first time you go, seeing how many you and your friends can name is a rite of passage. Whoever finishes last can surely pick up the first round.
Slap’s BBQ
553 Central Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
This is Kansas CIty. If there’s a BBQ joint in a neighborhood, it’s going to get talked about. In the case of Strawberry Hill, they’re home to one of the city’s best. Slap’s BBQ is no stranger to disKCovery. My affinity for this place is well-documented! (Seriously, just check here, or here, or over here, or even here!) I know that I am not the only one who feels as I do. In fact, I would speculate that Slap’s is likely the most frequented eatery in Strawberry Hill. Originally opened in 2014 by Mike and Joe Pearce of the Squeal Like A Pig BBQ team, Slap’s is a no-frills restaurant that serves up some of the best smoked meats and comfort food sides in town. In the decade they have been open, Slap’s has grown into one of KC’s most popular barbeque destinations and been featured on multiple features for the likes of Food Network and Travel Channel. Originally a one-room shed, Slap’s expanded a few years ago with a patio that evolved into an enclosed, full-fledged dining room. They also have a rooftop patio that offers amazing views of the downtown skyline.
DD’s Pro TIp: Slap’s does a lot of things very well but it’s their titular animal (pig), where they really shine. Consider ordering the Three Little Pigs! This three-meat meal includes their acclaimed jalapeño cheddar sausage, pulled pork, and a few bones of some of the best ribs in town and your choice of two sides. The baked potato casserole is a popular option.
Splitlog Coffee Co.
548 Central Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
Located directly across the street from Slap’s BBQ, Splitlog Coffee Company is a small, locally owned coffee shop with excellent drinks and even better service. Utilizing beans from a few local purveyors, they offer an array of hot and cold beverages that are sure to please. Established in 2017, they originally were a miniscule coffee shop. Like their BBQ neighbor, they eventually built on an additional indoor space and added a rooftop that offers great views of both the city and this stretch of Strawberry Hill. One essential that sets Splitlog apart from several local coffee spots is a fully operational drive-thru. However, the shop is so charming, you’ll want to take a time to enjoy your drink there. Splitlog also has some of the better breakfast burritos that can be found in KC. Available as a sausage or veggie option, the fajita-style burritos contain egg, potato, grilled veggies, and cheese with your choice of filler in a perfectly pressed tortilla. (For a time, Splitlog sourced pulled pork from Slap’s to use in these burritos. If and when offered, this is a must-order fusion of two amazing Strawberry Hill flavors). They also have a number of other scratch-made offerings. Beyond local coffees and their own breakfast items, they frequently have a collection of cookies, pastries, and donuts all from local spots. Everything about this place is a taste of Kansas City and a sampling of all Kansas has to offer. It is hard to imagine many better places to start the day.
DD’s Pro TIp: At the moment, the donuts of choice on the menu are from Mr. D’s Donuts. This Shawnee staple offers some of the best donuts in Kansas City so don’t miss out on your chance to try one. Also, the Strawberry Hill blend is a must at Splitlog. The aptly-named signature blend is a mix of Honduran and Ethiopian beans with notes of mixed berry and milk chocolate. Try it when you visit, or get a bag of the beans to take home.
403 Club
614 Reynolds Avenue, Kansas City, Kansas
For over a decade, the 403 Club has been a staple for Strawberry Hill residents. During Kansas City Royals and Chiefs games, it’s a place where the game will always be on; as will the sound. When in the mood to play a few bar games, a pool table, dart board, and about a dozen pinball tables along the back wall await. If the goal is to hang out with old friends, or make a few new ones, 403 can check that box too. If looking for a patio to spend the afternoon, 403 Club has got you covered there as well. Of course, if all you want is a quality selection of cheap, cold draft beer, then 403 is the place to be. A neighborhood watering hole in every sense of the word, the 403 Club’s cozy confines are never a bad choice.
DD’s Pro Tip: Make sure to bring some cash! You’re going to need it for the quarter machine if you plan to play pinball. And why are you even going to the 403 if you’re not going to play at least one round? When playing pinball, multiple plays on certain machines offer a quite literal bang for your buck. Also, the 403 Club offers their awesome 4:00pm - 7:00pm Happy Hour SEVEN DAYS A WEEK!
Tarahumaras Mexican Restaurant #2
503 N. 6th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
Nearly every person in America has a general awareness about our barbeque. What many don’t realize until they move here, is that Kansas City, Kansas may be one of the best taco towns in the nation. Tarahumaras Mexican Restaurant #2 is a proud part of this tradition. Much like our barbeque scene, it’s not just the number of taco spots that the KCK Taco Trail can boast, but the diversity of different styles. At Tarahumaras, it’s the birria taco that reigns supreme. Hailing from Jalisco, Mexico, the birria taco has become incredibly popular in recent years as there has become more widespread interest in authentic Mexican dishes and flavors. What sets these tacos apart is the stew that the tortillas are dipped in before being finished on the flat top, which gives the tacos an unmistakable flavor and texture, and their signature reddish-orange hue. The no-frills dining room where you order at the counter is always a fantastic choice for a quick, cheap, quality meal.
DD’s Pro Tip: Go for breakfast! Yes, they are a destination for birria tacos, but, how many taco joints and authentic Mexican spots in this footprint serve amazing Latin American breakfast plates, and do so all day? This is the only one I know of so take advantage! The breakfast burritos and Tostadas Rancheros are both fantastic. No matter the time of day, also get one of their mouthwatering tamales or potato tacos on the side. Lastly, apply the sauces with caution. They definitely bring the heat.
Hey Sugar (on Strawberry Hill)
426 N. 6th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
In an area packed with history and with many long-held institutions, Hey Sugar on Strawberry Hill is a relatively new entrant to the neighborhood that stands in contrast to surrounding businesses. In terms of appearance, the bright pink lodge is sure to draw the eye away from the red and brown brick that lines Sixth Street. From an offerings standpoint, Hey Sugar offers the perfect complement to the surrounding bars and restaurants. The full-service ice cream counter serves around a dozen flavors from Blue Bell and another dozen from Kansas City’s own One More Scoop. Beyond cones, floats, scoops, and shakes, Hey Sugar also has shaved ice, Italian sodas, and agua frescas. The rainbow colored walls are lined with an unbelievable assortment of candies. Packaged name brands, bulk candies, local brands, Hey Sugar bagged options, sought-after international sweets, and the most obscure of candies; even Willy Wonka would be overwhelmed by such a collection!
Beyond being a one-stop shop for whatever the sweet tooth may desire, the seating area within comes complete with children’s books and toys. The beautiful art, bright colors, and the offerings make it clear that on a street known for bars, this is a place for children and families but the bar-going crowd is also very welcome. For a business who claims that, “Everything’s sweeter on Strawberry Hill”, Hey Sugar is definitely doing their part to make sure that’s true.
DD’s Pro Tip: The flavors are constantly rotating so it is hard to make a specific order recommendation, but a waffle cone filled with ice cream from One More Scoop is always a great choice. Be sure to ask for a couple of samples before you order as the variety can be overwhelming.
Fat Matt’s Vortex
411 N. 6th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
The first time that I drove past Fat Matt’s Vortex, it was the colorful mural on the brick proclaiming the bar’s name that caught my eye. The banner advertising $2.50 drinks specials is likely what got me in the door. In the grand tradition of this neighborhood, it would be easy to call Fat Matt’s a dive or a sports bar, or even a club; but then, you would be missing the point. Much like the contents of a mystical vortex, Fat Matt’s is beyond definition. This is a place where neighborhood locals can drop a little bit of cash for a cheap, cold drink (Fat Matt’s does not accept electronic payments). The small hand-painted sign near the men’s room reminds locals that this is a Strawberry Hill destination. The flags and banners of local pro teams and colleges lets everyone know that Kansas and Kansas City sports will always be on the TVs. It’s a place to come shoot a game of pool or throw some darts. But the clash of bright beer neons, black walls and ceilings, paired with a Dia de Muertos motif make Fat Matt’s something else entirely. Fat Matt’s be a lively spot, the Day of the Dead decor does seem to fit the bill. While this space has been continually operated as a bar since the 1930s, and is one of Kansas’ oldest bars, it was once a funeral parlor. There is even a crematorium still in the basement! The vortex is so hard to define, most everyone agrees on one thing - Fat Matt’s is definitely haunted. With the Huron Park Cemetery nearby, and a history of its own, this neighborhood has long been a destination for those interested in the paranormal. Ghost tours routinely visit, and start at, this bar. Whether you believe in such a thing, Fat Matt’s Vortex definitely cast its own spell. No where is this more clear than with The Grog. The rum-based shot is an enigma shrouded in a riddle and concocted by a witch. No, seriously, by an actual witch. So no matter what experience you are looking for, Fat Matt’s is sure to deliver; as long as you remember to bring cash.
DD’s Pro Tip: Ask for The Grog! Not only is the house shot their signature drink, but if you’re a first timer, Fat Matt’s might just treat you to your first one. How many shots have you taken that are curated by a witch and a high priestess? The key to The Grog is to take it as a shot, but then pause for a moment to swish it around and appreciate the flavors before swallowing. Also, once again, Fat Matt’s Vortex is CASH ONLY.
Flagship Books
510 N. 6th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
With humble beginnings in a shipping container at North Kansas City’s Iron District during the COVID-19 pandemic, Flagship Books has been an anchor of the Strawberry Hill community for a little over two years. To the best of this publication’s knowledge, Flagship Books is the only independent bookstore in Kansas City, Kansas. This charming store offers a warm, inviting space with pieces on the walls from local artists. The collection of books available is stellar, spanning appropriate options for all age ranges with a mix of new and used. Perhaps most impressive in a world where book buying has gone largely digital, is the availability of new titles and how current this little shop on Sixth Street seems to stay. Even when the small shop doesn’t have a title, many rave about the service-first focus of the two brothers who own the store. They are always willing to help a customer order or track a title down. So much more than a book store, what makes Flagship so special is the way they have become a part of the community. A popular gathering space, Flagship Books hosts a number of readings, book clubs, book signings, and even meetings for community organizations. Most recently, the shop began a “singin’ book club” where members write and share songs and poems inspired by a pre-selected book. An independent bookstore in the current landscape is unique enough, but the appropriately-named Flagship Books is a community living room where people just happen to purchase books.
DD’s Pro Tip: Always keep an eye on their social media for information about changes to hours or events that may be happening in the shop. There’s always something happening at Flagship Books!
Breit’s Stein & Deli
412 N. 5th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
When it was announced that Breit’s Stein and Deli would be selling to new ownership last winter, I had mixed feelings. On the one hand, this is the natural order of things and I was relieved that this beloved bar and sandwich place would continue on in Strawberry Hill. But then, my heart sank because I had to ask myself, “How will it carry on?” Would new ownership change everything that makes this spot so beloved by those who know about it? Well fortunately, any fears of Breit’s demise (or at least its decline) were greatly exaggerated and unwarranted. In fact, without knowing about the ownership change in advance, it would be hardly noticeable. The bar’s namesake, Bob Breitenstein, sold his spot to a pair of regulars and is now a regular himself, as he continues to guide the new owners as the make they place their own venture. The longtime manager, Stephanie, who has been there as long as most can remember is still on board. And the famed top-flight Reuben, and other sandwiches, with a side that can be gotten for under ten dollars is still on the menu. If you do love the Omaha staple sandwich, this Reuben is one of the city’s best. What makes this particular bar so special is the phenomenal value, fantastic sandwiches, and the friendly, welcoming vibe. It’s a place that is just divey enough to feel familiar but still cozy enough that you want to bring your family in for a meal. While it’s been around for about 20 years, it definitely feels like an institution that has always been a part of the Hill. Whether you come in once a week, or once a year, Breit’s has always been a place where every person who walks in feels like a regular. From the look of things, that’s not changing anytime soon.
DD’s Pro TIp: Just get the Reuben! The last time I was in there, a Reuben, side of potato salad, and a pint of Guinness came in at an astounding $11. Speaking of Guinness, this is an Irish watering hole that knows exactly how to pour this beer. If you love Guinness as I do, that alone is reason to check out Breit’s.
Taqueria El Camino Real
903 N. 7th Street Trafficway, Kansas City, Kansas
The notion of El Camino Real being a secret is mind-boggling because the little taco joint does everything they can to draw attention. Located in the heart of the government and financial district of downtown KCK, the bright red sign, and even brighter red awning are sure to draw the eye. For passersby, the giant spiral of juicy, orange Al Pastor spinning in the window is certain to catch your attention. Even if it doesn’t, the awning itself declares that the restaurant has “the best Tacos Al Pastor”, and it’s very possible that they are right. The juicy pork is rich with a citrusy, pineapple flavor. Once inside, there’s no frills to this place, just a counter and open work station in the front and a bunch of tables and chairs for eager diners. Every single table has a vantage point of the flat top and the amazing spiral of spinning pork leg. El Camino Real is so much more than their Al Pastor or their tacos. Beyond a wide variety of taco meats and fillings, they are a destination for tasty fajitas and other Mexican fares. What makes El Camino so special is the blend of comfort, insanely good quality, and simplicity. Even with a plate of tacos, they serve just the shells and fillings with chopped onion, cilantro, and lime on the side. Like many things in this life, El Camino Real is whatever you make of it.
DD’s Pro Tip: This is one of the best places in the city you will find for a plate of fajitas, so that is always a wise decision. However, this spot makes it real easy for you. They claim to have the best pastor tacos and the big carousel of meat in the window is the clear-cut winner. Anything with the Al Pastor is a smart choice, although on the taco side of things, the tilapia and Cabeza are equally excellent options.
Third Fridays (May through October ONLY)
6th Street, Kansas City, Kansas
While it’s the Crossroads Arts District and their amazing collection of murals and street art get much-deserved fanfare, a similarly exciting scene exists within KCK. Much like the Crossroads’ First Fridays, on the third Friday of each month between May and October, Strawberry Hill offers their version of that event in the Third Friday Art Walks. The free event that is open to people of all ages and walks of life, allows visitors to take in the diversity and uniqueness of the neighborhood through art, music, food trucks, and assorted vendors. Whether it is street art, the neighborhood’s already existing murals, immersive performance art, pop-up art, or other exhibits, the free community event is a celebration of creativity. Monthly art maps posted online show the best routes to properly enjoy Third Fridays in KCK and stops of interest. Like art itself, there is no proper way to partake in Third Fridays or explore all there is to see. The only wrong approach to Third Fridays is not to go at all.
DD’s Pro Tip: While the celebration and exhibits span much of 6th Street, the best spot for parking is in the Unified Government parking lot near EPIC Clay Studio. Most of the vendors and artists tend to be centered near this portion of the street.
Often times, we romanticize the notion of “seeing the world”. As an avid traveler, I would never dare clip anyone’s wings. However, so few have their eyes on the globe that they miss what is right in our own backyard. The opportunity to constantly be a tourist in your own city is such a simple, and rewarding, joy.
Living in a city like this one, provides the chance to be on a constant journey of discovery, always uncovering the very best of our metro. Strawberry Hill is often overlooked by too many people but it’s eclectic nature, history, and proximity to this city’s core makes it a no-brainer for a place to visit. The best part? This is a community that is proud of their identity and is eager to welcome all. If you look carefully, you will often see a reference to Strawberry Hill in every business whether it be a menu item, some strawberry art, or even including the neighborhood’s name as a key part of their brand. When it comes to this vibrant enclave of KCK, there may not be “gold in that thar hill” but there are some real nuggets if you know where to look. With May right around the corner, perhaps a Third Friday lies in your future?
If you already know what makes Strawberry Hill so wonderful, then, you already know. And if you don’t, then hopefully now you do. The next time you have a chance, cross over the river from downtown, head for The Hill, and see what gems you can discover for yourself.
What’s your favorite spot in Strawberry Hill? Did I forget to mention it? What insider tips do you have? Any other neighborhoods I need to provide a guide for? Let me hear it in the comments!