disKCovery

The second park of our journey was Grand Teton National Park. This photo was taken at Schwabacher Landing.

Published September 30, 2021

While my heart is always in Kansas City, and disKCovery was founded to share my love affair with this city, my feet often take me outside of this city. After a year that was largely without travel, I am making up for lost time. #nomaDD provides an opportunity for me to write about the places that I visit outside of our wonderful city. Throughout the fall, I have been recapping my summer travels. At the conclusion of “A Walk In The Parks”, I will get back to my number one priority - helping you, and others, discover the best of KC.

This picks up exactly where “A Walk In The Parks Pt. 1” left off. If you have not read it, you should do so before you continue.

Day 3

“Super jealous of you guys.”

That’s the text from our brother Ryan that greeted me when I awoke. His envy was accompanied by a screenshot showing that Billy Butler had tweeted at me the night before.

No question that our short time in Idaho Falls was memorable but that morning both Connor and I were eager to hit the road and continue our trip. Before we could head to the Grand Tetons, we needed to pick up a few essentials.

When it comes to visiting an outdoor destination like a national park, there are a number of supplies you need. Primarily, in order to keep our trip affordable and maximize our time in the parks, we needed groceries so we could pack our lunches every day. Additionally, there were other necessary items we needed like bug spray, sun block, and bear spray*, among others.

For us it was imperative to load up on the basics in Idaho Falls. Our past experiences have always taught us to get supplies when you can. Typically, the towns that surround national parks not only lack variety, but are able to gouge up the prices. Stores in these towns are also not always open at the hours when we would need them. On multiple occasions, we have found the few restaurants in park towns are either at capacity or closed by the time we are ready to eat dinner. By shopping in Idaho Falls, we were able to get the foods, snacks, and items that we wanted at a fraction of the cost.

Having everything we felt we needed, we were nearly ready to leave Idaho Falls. Having bought all those groceries, and seeing that it was past noon, we realized we were very, very hungry.

Smitty’s Pancake & Steak House

The day prior, we had noticed the large white, water tower-like, orb in the parking lot advertising the restaurant. And now, as we drove right by it on our way out of town, it seemed like the obvious choice. Truthfully, we were both hungry for breakfast food, we were both intrigued by the combination offered, and as for me, I had high hopes that another helping of finger steaks was in my immediate future.

Little did we know that we had stumbled into an eastern Idaho institution. Opened in 1966, Smitty’s Pancake & Steak House has been serving the people of Idaho Falls for decades. In late 2019, the longtime owners sold to new owners who used the COVID-19 shutdown to put their renovation plans into hyperdrive. When we walked through the doors, we found a spacious restaurant that was modern, warm, inviting, and so, so clean. While it looks new, the restaurant definitely had the familiarity, comfort, and character of a place that has served generations.

Right away we found finger steaks offered as an appetizer. For unexplained reasons^, fried food sounded amazing to us both so we went for the sampler that allowed us to mix and match three items. We opted for two helpings of finger steaks and one of cheese curds - all served with a side of ranch dressing as only we midwesterners know how.

With the aroma of hot maple syrup permeating the dining room, we both knew that we were going to follow up our shareables with some pancakes.

The appetizer could have easily served four people! The mountain of finger steaks seemed never ending and the mound of golden brown cheese curds was massive. While I did miss the signature seasoning of the steaks from Scotty’s, the ones at Smitty’s were incredible. The quality of the sirloin was impeccable. It was tender and rich in flavor with a perfectly fried shell. The cheese curds were perfectly prepared and had the exact amount of saltiness you look for in this dish.

Having, mostly, conquered our starter, I was not sure how either of us could hope to eat another bite. And then the main course arrived. I opted for the Southern Pecan Pancakes. While I might someday find a pancake that is just as good, I do not believe it is possible for a pancake to be better than the stack I had at Smitty’s. They were in perfect balance - not too dense, nor too fluffy. Uniformly chestnut brown on top with pale yellow edges, they were truly picturesque. There was a nuttiness and sweetness to the pancakes that was delightful as there were small pieces of pecans within each cake and even more on top. Connor’s buttermilk pancakes appeared to be equally amazing. The whipped butter and hot maple syrup were the perfect texture and temperature and made this a most memorable meal.

Sadly, our eyes were bigger than our stomachs and we had to leave some of this gargantuan feast behind. Our time in Idaho Falls was over and it was time to continue our journey.

It’s been three months and I’m still dreaming about this shortstack from Smitty’s in Idaho Falls.

The Road to the Tetons

Our entire strategy for how we mapped out this trip was predicated off the idea that both Connor and I feel like time flies when you are traveling to a place but always seems to be at a standstill when you are leaving said place. For this reason, we tend to plan trips to make the return journey as short as possible. So, our plan, after the Idaho Falls detour was to drive all the way south to Jackson Hole, Wyoming (and the southern entrance to Grand Teton National Park) and then spend the entire next week or so working our way back north towards Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport.

Saw a moose cow and her calf on the way to Driggs, Idaho. Unfortunately, I did not get a good shot of the calf.

As much as we love the parks and their natural beauty, our greatest thrill has always come from seeing wildlife that isn’t native to Missouri in their natural habitat. On this particular trip, it only took us about two hours as we encountered a moose cow and her calf in the ditch by the road on our drive south.

After sleeping in, making a supply run, and gorging on pancakes and finger steaks, it was nearly 4:00pm when we finally arrived at the park so we decided to make the most of the partial day. Of course, first things first, we bought our 7 day park pass for $35^. We then checked in at a few of the Vistors’ Centers to ask questions and grab maps. As people who are big on wildlife viewing opportunities, we always take advantage of any center with a Ranger Station. Park Rangers are always going to have the best advice on where, when, and how to safely view specific wildlife within the park they serve.

After getting our questions answered (or primarily Connor’s one question, “Where are the bears?!”), we decided to drive around the loop to familiarize ourselves with the park. With sundown only five hours away, we also saw this as a great opportunity to potentially see some wildlife from the safety of our car and to check one thing off our trip list - “seeing the sunset from the east side of the Tetons.”

Wildlife Viewing 101

Allow me a quick break to talk about wildlife viewing in parks since it is something my brother and I are both very passionate about.

As a policy, most National Parks require that visitors keep a distance of 25 yards between themselves and wild animals. They require a distance of 100 yards for predators (bears, wolves, mountain lions, etc.) and large nesting birds. For that reason, viewing from a car is usually where most of my best pictures come from. Not only is it much safer but you are likely to get closer to wildlife when they are on the road than you would on the trails. When it comes to animals like bears, I hope to encounter them from the safety of a vehicle!

It is also incredibly important to remember that you are the guest. You are in the habitat of these amazing creatures, not the other way around. Wildlife in the parks are exactly where they belong and visitors to parks should always be aware of that and respectful of their space.

Now, the reason that Connor and I were so content to spend a few hours driving the Tetons loop while we awaited sundown is the most important rule for wildlife viewing. Scratch that, it is the best guideline for being successful in wildlife viewing. The most important rule of wildlife viewing is to respect the animal’s space**. The best advice I can give for wildlife viewing is this:

The best time to view wildlife is early in the morning and in the evening.

Honestly, it’s that simple. And when you think about it, it makes a lot of sense. Most species of animal are on the move in the morning and the evening. There are a number of factors that play into this. For grazing species, they are less likely to be spotted by a predator when it’s darker. For animals in the park, they are better able to avoid people when the park is emptier. And in the summer, animals are just like us - they are most likely to come out when it is coolest. A second piece of advice? Animals have to drink sometime. Bodies of water are usually some of the best places for wildlife viewing.

Connor and I were content to take a few laps around the loop because as the day came to a close, we knew we could have a good opportunity to see wildlife early.

And back to my recap of Day 3.

The Loop & Sunset

Elk crossing a river bed at around 9:45pm. Dawn and dusk are the best times for wildlife viewing due to increased animal movement.

We spent the next few hours driving the loop which allowed us to get a real feel for the park as we finalized our itinerary for the coming days. On our first pass through Antelope Flats, we saw some pronghorns and bison. It was on our third time around the loop as we were looking for a place to enjoy the sunset that I spotted movement in the distance and asked Connor to pull over.

We had been on two of these trips prior but one animal that I had never seen up close was an elk. Now up ahead, on the horizon, there was a group of elk does.

After snapping some photos of the elk, we found a great place for viewing the mighty mountains at sundown. I could try to explain how beautiful it was but my words could never do it justice. While these photos do a far better job than I ever could, they don’t quite do it justice either.

It was now well past 9:00pm. As we made our way out of the park we saw a moose cow bathing in a creek with two calves and then on a river flat, we saw EVEN MORE ELK as a dozen of them made their way across the water. I could not believe our luck in finally seeing these elusive creatures! (In the coming days at Grant Teton, we would actually experience a beautiful buck elk up close!)

Overall, it was about as good of a day in the park as we could have hoped and we definitely could not wait to explore the park in earnest.

Sunset at the Tetons. We are 99% sure that the woman who shot this photo for us thought we were a couple. We didn’t see a need to correct her. It was so nice to hear how great we looked.

Days 4 & 5

Jenny Lake, Hidden Falls, & Inspiration Point

Beach or Mountains? It’s a very common either/or question and while I obviously love both, I will take mountains every time. One of the biggest reasons is because I enjoy a good hike. Having done our research in advance, and stopping in at different visitors’ stations the day prior, we were both pretty dead-set on visiting Jenny Lake and hiking the associated trails.

Located at the base of the Tetons, Jenny Lake almost acts as the centerpiece of the entire park. The two square mile lake is one of the only lakes in the park to permit motorboat access. Additionally, its shimmering waters make for excellent views and it is adjacent to some of the best trails in the entire park.

We took advantage of the ferry across the lake that runs continuously throughout the day. While it was an $18 round-trip ride, it allowed us to get to experience Jenny Lake firsthand. It also saved us a little over two miles of walking each way and allowed us to skip right to the heart of the lower Cascade Canyon Trail.

DD’s Pro-Tip: The shuttle runs from 10:00am to 4:00pm daily. What this actually means is that you will want to be parked no later than 9:00am and in line no later than 9:30am for the first shuttle of the day. Of even greater importance, you will want to conclude your hike and be in line for pick-up by 3:00pm at the latest or else, you may just be adding 2.2 miles to your walk back. — ***DD’s Pro-Tip:*** The shuttle runs from 10:00am to 4:00pm daily. What this actually means is that you will want to be parked no later than 9:00am and in line no later than 9:30am for the first shuttle of the day. Of even greater importance, you will want to conclude your hike and be in line for pick-up by 3:00pm at the latest or else, you may just be adding 2.2 miles to your walk back.

The lower portion of the Cascade Canyon Trail is likely the most popular trail in the park. That has to do with three factors - ease of accessibility (thanks to the Jenny Lake shuttle), relative ease, and the distance to picturesque points. Within the first mile of the drop-off point, hikers can reach Cascade Canyon Falls, Hidden Falls, and Inspiration Point. While the trail continues deep into Cascade Canyon, most hikers opt for the abbreviated hike. The hike to the first two points would be considered an easy one while with an increased elevation of around 500 feet, the trail from Hidden Falls to the Inspiration Point is a moderate one. Nothing about this trail, at least what we saw of it, could be considered strenuous.

While the trail was a bit crowded at certain points, it is a must at Grand Teton National Park. Both Connor and I agreed that this was one of the best trails we have ever hiked anywhere. Hidden Falls was beautiful and the cool mist coming off the falls was welcome on a warm summer day. Cascade Canyon Falls was cool as well. Personally, I always enjoy the sounds of crashing water.

At Inspiration Point, we stopped for lunch and took in the views of Jenny Lake and the Tetons. We also were entertained by the chipmunks who were clearly used to visitors lunching at the point (please, please, please do not feed the animals in these parks) and they were not above begging for scraps.

View of Jenny Lake from Inspiration Point.

We actually continued a bit past Inspiration Point and made this hike into a 3.5 mile roundtrip. The highlight of our day, and biggest startle, came about 1000 yards past Inspiration Point when Connor popped over a small hill to find himself within 15 yards of a young bull moose (he still had fuzz on his antlers) who was wading in a small pond. We both backed up to give the bull the necessary space. We were thrilled to see a bull moose so closely but also understood that this was a wild, and dangerous animal.

“You do not have to be faster than the animal that may attack, you just have to be faster/farther away than the dumbest person there.”

Of course, us being stopped and taking photos attracted other visitors who did not have the same respect for the bull we did. My unofficial rule for wildlife viewing is that you do not have to be faster than the animal that may attack, you just have to be faster/farther away than the dumbest person there. With so many inconsiderate guests getting within 20 feet of the bull moose as it drank, it provided Connor and I an opportunity to view and take photos of the creature with a nice buffer of morons (harsh yes but there’s really no better word) between us and the bull. After about 15 minutes, when the bull decided to charge at a photographer who was practically on the banks of the small moor, we were hardly surprised. With trees and a solid moron buffer between us and the bull, Connor and I were well out of harm’s way when he did, inevitably, charge. It is just extremely unfortunate that dozens of people failed to remember the biggest rule of wildlife viewing - respecting the creature and his habitat.

Past Inspiration Point, we directly encountered a bull moose who was enjoying a drink. Unfortunately, other visitors on the trail did not respect his personal space.

String Lake

“DID YOU VISIT STRING LAKE YET?”

From the moment I landed in Bozeman, I had received this text from my friend Brittain. She is absolutely obsessed with String Lake and it was easy to see why once we visited. A very popular campground within the park, String Lake has clear, pristine waters and is a great place for recreation on the water whether it be fishing, swimming, kayaking/canoeing, or paddle-boarding. Paddle boards and kayaks are available for rental on the premises. While Connor and I waded into the icy cold waters, we did not get a chance to swim in String Lake but several people were doing exactly that on our first visit. You can choose to hike a few miles past the Jenny Lake ferry drop-off to get to String Lake but honestly, you are better off driving. If I were to ever return to Grand Tetons, this is undoubtedly where I would want to set up camp.

Victor Emporium

Given that we were not camping on this trip, and that we had booked our vacation much later than usual due to uncertainties surrounding COVID-19, Connor and I were staying about 45 minutes away from the park entrance in Driggs, Idaho. When driving along the main stretch of neighboring town Victor, I had seen a charming looking shop called Victor Emporium. As someone who is an ice cream fiend^^, I asked about the place when we checked into our hotel in Driggs and the front desk attendant had raved on and on about how incredible the ice cream was. I knew we had to check it out.

Now, there was one slight problem with that. Victor Emporium’s hours of operation are 11:00am to 6:00pm daily. As people who make the most of our park days, and hope to view wildlife, we typically were leaving our hotel hours before the emporium opened and returning hours past close. However, on the final day at the Tetons, we had neglected to set our alarms. Our late start meant we were passing through Victor, Idaho at exactly 11:00am and we could do the one thing every nine year old dreams of - ICE CREAM FOR BREAKFAST!

Walking through the door of this old-fashioned soda fountain, we quickly found it was so much more than that! This haberdashery had everything from shirts to board games to jewelry to fishing licenses available! Of course, we were there for the ice cream. The young woman at the counter clearly expected us to order coffee at 11:00am but no such luck. I had a double-scoop waffle cone of butter pecan and salted caramel ice cream. The hand-scooped frozen treat was creamy, decadent, and delicious. It was such a charming place, with exceptional service, that I am thankful that we overslept and had the opportunity to visit.

Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Somewhere along the way, “tourist” became a swear word. In particular, the deviation of “touristy” has a strongly negative connotation. I have been guilty of this as well. However, when I travel to somewhere new, I am a tourist. While I want the local feel and to get that experience, a lot of sights are touristy for a reason. Being tourists, Connor and I wanted to be sure to spend some time to spend a little bit of time exploring the super-touristy Jackson Hole.

Jackson Hole is popular during the winter months as a ski resort and during the summer months it is overrun by the national parks crowd. Located at the southernmost entrance to Grand Teton National Park, the valley town is filled with souvenir shops, bars, restaurants, supply shops, hotels, and other tourist-centric businesses. Every day when we made the drive from Driggs to the park, we would drive through the heart of Jackson. Aside from stopping in to pick up some necessary souvenirs and gifts, there were a couple highlights of our brief time in Jackson Hole.

Sidewinders American Grill

Sometimes I find new places via Yelp! (Scotty’s Drive-In), recommendations from locals (Victor Emporium), or just by pure luck (Smitty’s Pancake & Steak House) but a lot of times, I do what many of my readers do - I depend on the likes of Food Network and Travel Channel. Sidewinders American Grill was a spot featured on Diners, Drive-Ins, & Dives. During our days exploring Grand Teton National Park, we found that dining options in Driggs, Idaho and nearby Victor, Idaho were not only limited, many of them were often closed by the time we got back (we typically eat dinner around 8:30pm on these trips). By our final night at Grand Teton, we finally learned that we should try to eat dinner in Jackson Hole before making the late-night drive back to Driggs.

When we arrived for dinner, we found Sidewinders to be busy (hardly a surprise) with an hour-long wait for a table. However, as only two guys (opposed to the large groups and families in line), Connor and I asked to use the restroom. We quickly found open seats available at the bar and both the host inside and bartender confirmed that the bar was open seating and not accounted for in the wait. When traveling solo or with 1-2 other people, I always look for the bar. We rarely wait for a table for this reason. With an incredibly diverse and large draft selection of local beers, and a solid food menu, I would recommend this to anyone passing through. However, it was two appetizers we enjoyed that actually make Sidewinders worth writing about.

Famished after a day of hiking, we decided to order the “S”idewinder Pretzel as an appetizer. The pretzel was appropriately named because it was s-shaped but it wasn’t a pretzel at all! Instead, it was pizza dough that was stuffed to the gills with creamy, mozzarella cheese as well as pepperoni (there is an option to add a pizza topping). The warm, crusty dough tore apart easily and while I would typically opt for their house-made marinara, the other option of ranch dressing was a perfect complement to this tasty starter.

In the reviews I had read, Guy Fieri had gone and on and on about the French onion soup. Being one of my favorite soups, I had to try it. It definitely lived up to the hype! This was the best French onion soup I have ever had. Described as a “medley of three onions”, the sweet and savory flavors were so well-balanced. The light soup was super flavorful and filling. The gooey layer of melted cheeses on top was perfect. I can imagine that Sidewinders is a destination for the winter crowd purely for this divine broth alone.

The best French onion soup I have ever had (left) is enough reason to visit Sidewinders American Grill in Jackson Hole. Their fun take on the pretzel (right) is just an added bonus.

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar

Driving through the town square, it is impossible to miss the large sign that advertises the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. The sign enough would have peaked my curiosity but it actually had come strongly recommended by my friend Micah While shopping in Jackson, Connor and I stopped in for a bourbon and a couple of beers. Between the horse saddle bar stools, the knobby pine that dominates the bar’s interior, and the other western motifs, we were thankful to have such a gaudy and ostentatious Wyoming experience. Our only regret is that we were not staying close enough to Jackson Hole to properly enjoy the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar on a weekend night.

Additional Grand Teton Points of Interest and Photos

Let’s be honest. If you’re reading about my own personal vacation, you’re mostly looking for travel tips or awesome photos. I could try to describe the absolute majesty of this park but you know what they say about a picture.

We got pretty closet to a buck elk. After years of never seeing an elk, they were plentiful at Grand Teton.

Our super-sweet rental car at Jackson Lake.

I will be honest, Grand Teton National Park had been so high on my list due to its proximity to Yellowstone National Park. It simply does not make sense to visit one and not the other. While I knew it would be beautiful, I did not expect to fall in love with this park like I did.

I felt like the smaller size of this park allowed us to have an in-depth experience. Yet, it also felt like we could have spent twice as long here without running out of things to see and do. The number of observation points and the ample opportunities for wildlife viewing made this my favorite park that I have ever hiked. For anyone planning to visit this park, I would recommend at least two full days to experience it. I am glad to have visited Grand Teton but also know that if it were not adjacent to Yellowstone, I would have missed out on a truly special place. Hiking the lower Cascade Canyon trail (and encountering a bull moose on said trail) is right there with meeting Country Breakfast as my top highlights of this entire trip.

That is not to say that the final leg of our journey into Yellowstone National Park was not a remarkable experience. It was. However, that is a story for another day.

To Be Continued…

Those Pesky Endnotes That I Often Insist On

* Essentially, Bear Spray is an extremely high-grade aerosol similar to pepper spray that can be deployed in the event of a bear attack. While it is unlikely you would ever have to use bear spray (as bears tend to avoid heavily trafficked trails), it is still a wise investment and something you should always carry when hiking. On our last day in the parks, knowing we had a full canister, we paid it forward and gave our can to a family who had not bought any yet. It is illegal to bring bear spray on a commercial flight so in our experience, saving a fellow traveler the expense of it is always a great move.

^Traditionally, National Park passes are offered as a 7 day pass or an annual pass for that specific park. The National Park Service does offer an $80 annual pass that is good for all parks so if you have plans to visit at least 3 different parks in a year, the Annual Pass is a great investment. Otherwise, the 7 day pass is the way to go!

** And the second rule of wildlife viewing is that we do not talk about wildlife viewing. Bad joke? I’ll see myself out. Wait a tick, it’s my blog. I’m staying!

^^ Seriously, ice cream is the single best dessert on the planet. If you disagree, you are just wrong. Also, this frozen manna of the gods is so incredible that it should never be restricted to a specific time of day. Ice cream is welcome at any meal, as our breakfast in Victor proves!

I hope you enjoyed reading about the second stage of my summer vacation.
Please join me in October for the conclusion with Part III of “A Walk In The Parks”!

A Walk In The Parks, Pt. II