disKCovery

On May 20, I was excited! I woke up 90 minutes early to check in for my Southwest flight. In 24 hours, I would be going to Cincinnati, Ohio for the first time ever!

Published June 23, 2021

“OK. Good Luck. … Cincinnati sucks.”

When I mentioned to a friend that day that I was spending a three day weekend in the Queen City, he just rolled his eyes and said, “OK. Good luck. I hope you find something to do there. Cincinnati sucks.” I was a little taken aback, but not deterred. However, I then heard a similar sentiment from two others and if I hadn’t been so amped up, I would have likely been more discouraged.

Why was I so excited for Cincinnati and why had I prioritized this as my first flight in 16 months?

Ever since I first attended a Major League Baseball game in college (I know, late bloomer), I have had the same goal as many baseball fans - to catch a game at every MLB stadium. Since 2007, I had visited at least one new stadium every year. During this run, the feat I am most proud of is catching a game at all five California MLB stadiums (and a Major League Soccer stadium to boot!) in 8 days in 2013. On this quest, one stadium that had long evaded me was Great American Ballpark - the home of the Cincinnati Reds.

Truth be told, I never had a good reason to get to Cincinnati and anytime I found myself in Ohio or Kentucky, the Reds were always on the road or out of season. As the 2020 baseball season approached, I had already made up my mind that I would make a designated trip to Cincy in order to catch a Reds’ game. Between 2007 and 2019, I had visited 31 Major League Baseball stadiums and the Reds were the only team I had never seen play at home. So last February, I booked a plane ticket to be in Cincinnati for Opening Day, and you know what happened next.

Professional sports and live events came to a grinding halt as the COVID-19 pandemic came to the United States. Even with the best laid intentions, going to a Reds’ home game continued to evade me.

As the United States began to open up more and more in 2021 and Major League Baseball announced plans to have fans at games, I had no doubts where my first flight post-COVID would be. In March of this year, I once again booked a flight to Cincinnati and accommodations in downtown Cincinnati.

Two weeks after I booked, Southwest announced changes to my itinerary and I held out hope that a damper would not be put on my plans. In my mind, I had booked the perfect weekend - late May (my birthday weekend to be exact!) to see the Cincinnati Reds take on their division rival, the Milwaukee Brewers. The Royals fan in me was beyond excited at the prospect of seeing Mike Moustakas play against Lorenzo Cain.

Just a couple days before I was set to leave the Reds placed Mike Moustakas on the Injured List and Southwest Airlines had already swapped out my non-stop flights for layovers in Baltimore but once again, I was on a mission. I was going to see a Reds’ home game or bust. I had waited long enough.

To be honest, I did have my concerns about Cincinnati. I had not planned for much beyond Skyline Chili and a Reds’ game so I hoped I would make the most of the city. I was also generally concerned, as any traveler should be right now, about the current state of limited, and often over-priced rideshare and taxi options. After all, Cincinnati’s airport is in Kentucky, 25 minutes away from downtown and one of the main bridges across the Ohio River into the city is currently closed due to construction. As a Kansas Citian, I could definitely relate.

Regardless, the day arrived. Early in the morning on May 21, I flew into Cincinnati. And as I arrived in the Queen City, apparently summer did as well. I was about to be treated to a beautiful 70 degree and sunny weekend. Also as I arrived, another surprise awaited me - my friend Wilson, a Kansas City resident but a native of Cincinnati, had emailed me his own personal guide of must-do’s for Cincy. Nothing could stop me now. I had gone without travel for far too long and I was going to make the most of this weekend.

Day 1 - Friday

Sometimes, it’s the little things that can determine whether or not a trip will be great. For me, my Cincinnati experience was definitely impacted by the Lyft (as a traveler, I love getting 5x travel points on my Chase Sapphire card when I use Lyft!) driver who picked me up from Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport - Louis.

Louis was my favorite kind of driver when I am in a new place. He was engaging and clearly proud of his city. With all the highway construction going on, he actually took me on an alternative route through the riverfront towns of Kentucky that allowed me to have a beautiful view of the Ohio River for my entire ride and see a number of charming downtowns. He gave recommendations on things to do, pointed out places of interest and fun facts (DID YOU KNOW? Cincinnati’s Union Terminal is the basis for the Superfriends’ Hall of Justice in the classic Hanna Barbera cartoon?) and it was clear that he loved living in Cincinnati.

Shortly before he dropped me off at my first stop of the weekend, he apologized to me saying, “Sorry, I get really excited about showing off my city” to which I replied, “I love it. Never, ever apologize to anyone for being passionate about the place you live.”

“Never, ever apologize to anyone for being passionate about the place you live.”

TQL Stadium

When Louis dropped me off at TQL Stadium, I was beyond excited. Since FC Cincinnati came into being in 2015 and then joined Major League Soccer in 2018, Cincy has proven themselves to be a passionate soccer city with an electric fan base. With an estimated construction cost of $250 million, FC Cincinnati opened their state-of-the-art downtown stadium on May 16, 2021. While I was sad to not be able to attend a match at one of the newest soccer-specific stadiums in the United States, I was thrilled at the opportunity to get a private tour of TQL less than a week after it opened.

In a city long known for its Bavarian influences, having a Munich-style beer hall in Cincinnati’s stadium only makes sense. The First Financial Club is an amazing space that celebrates Cincy’s widespread German heritage and the best of the Queen City.

TQL Stadium was breathtaking. As someone who has been to a dozen of the current Major League Soccer stadiums, this was possibly the best one I have seen. The suite levels and club spaces are all unique and well thought-out with their own specific inclusions and amenities. One of these clubs mimics a Bavarian beer hall and celebrates the best of Cincinnati. The Bailey, the safe-standing area where the most passionate supporters of FC Cincinnati stand and chant for 90 minutes, has a convenient drinks-only bar on the concourse below that was constructed with efficiency and quick transactions in mind so Bailey supporters don’t miss a second of the action. And of course, most uniquely, the stadium is covered in a collection of “fins” with ambient lighting that makes sure everyone in downtown Cincinnati knows when the home team scores a goal.

Izzy’s

One of the earliest drivers for my passion about local fare when I travel was Adam Richman’s Man vs. Food, a show that he hosted on the Travel Channel from 2008 - 2012. As a result, anytime I am in a city that Richman featured on the show, I try to go to at least one restaurant he visited. With one of Richman’s restaurants, Izzy’s, the self-proclaimed home of the “World’s Greatest Reubens”, just blocks away from my downtown hotel, I had to pay a visit.

Now you may recall my affinity for the Reuben from a piece I wrote earlier this year. As a Reuben fanatic, I understand the buzz around Izzy’s in Cincy and why this restaurant has lasted for 120 years. Unable to decide between pastrami and corned beef, I ordered the “Reubenator” (a double-decker Reuben) with one layer of corned beef and one layer of pastrami. The lady at the counter told me they had never done that before but it didn’t stop them! The meat was thin-sliced, tender, and flavorful. It had the exact amount of Thousand Island I like on a sandwich and the Swiss was nicely melted. What really stood out on this sandwich though was the sauerkraut. It was so fresh and crisp with a perfect balance of vinegar.

Not only does Izzy’s make a fantastic sandwich, but in the greatest tradition of Jewish delicatessens, every order comes with a potato pancake (or latke). With a chewy exterior and a mushy interior bursting with onion flavor, this was one of the better latkes I have had.

DD’s Pro Tip: If you find yourself at Izzy’s, make sure to order your sandwich griddled. Toasting the rye makes ALL the difference.

Attending a home game for baseball’s oldest team was the reason I chose to visit Cincinnati in the first place. The Cincinnati Reds defeated the Milwaukee Brewers 9 - 4 on May 21, 2021, thanks in large part to a three homerun game from Jesse Winker.

Great American Ballpark

Attending a Cincinnati Reds game was the entire reason I had chosen to visit Cincinnati so of course I went to the ballpark on my first night. The fact that I was going to get to see them play against former Royal Lorenzo Cain, the 2014 ALCS MVP, and the Milwaukee Brewers was just an added bonus. For this occasion, since I was attending the game solo and planned to spend a lot of time exploring the stadium, I bought the lowest priced ticket I could find - a left field bleacher seat. Little did I know that this would be the perfect seat for taking in the game. Getting to be right above Christian Yelich (Brewers) and Jesse Winker (Reds) all night was obviously great but it was the other fans in the bleachers, especially their heckling of Yelich, that made for an entertaining evening.

“Cincinnati is the first city I have been to that rivals St. Louis’s level of [baseball] fanaticism.”

Anytime I go to a city that has a downtown ballpark, it is hard not to be a little jealous. While the tailgating scene at Kansas City sporting events is second to none, I am envious of those who have stadiums in the heart of their city. On this particular Friday night, the Ohio River front was electric. As for the stadium itself, this was my 32nd Major League ballpark and I found it to be middle-of-the-pack in terms of rankings but that does not mean I did not have a great time. Great American Ballpark had a great assortment of local fare and concession options. The Cincinnati Red Stockings were the first professional baseball team in the United States, founded in 1866, and the city loves to remind everyone of that fact. The Reds do a wonderful job of paying homage to their storied franchise (I especially love the Pete Rose statue that exemplifies his Charlie Hustle moniker). They have a play area and a collection of mascots accessible to fans that makes this a great place to bring the family. Of course, the highlight of my night was Jesse Winker.

It is always my hope when I visit a new ballpark to see the home team hit a homerun because, every stadium celebrates homeruns in their own unique way. Luckily, I got to see four of them, and three of them were hit by Jesse Winker! This was the first three homerun performance I have ever seen live. As a cherry on top, I got to see Lorenzo Cain make the kind of jaw-dropping catch that I grew accustomed to during his days of roaming centerfield at the K. From the game itself to the fans to energy downtown, visiting Great American Ballpark was a real treat for this baseball fan. Proudly, I now have the distinction of having attended a home game for all 30 Major League Baseball teams.

A pre-game photo with the mascots. From left to right - Mr. Redlegs, Gapper, Myself, Rosie Red, and Mr. Red.

I have often said, to the chagrin of myself and many fellow Kansas Citians, that St. Louis is the best baseball city in America. However, Cincinnati is the first city that I have been to that rivals St. Louis’s level of fanaticism. All weekend long, every person I encountered was talking about the Reds and many of them were sporting Reds’ gear. At least for the weekend I was there, it was clear that this is a pulsating city and Great American Ballpark was its heartbeat.

Although Cooperstown may never induct the all-time hits leader, Pete “Charlie Hustle” Rose is still beloved in Cincinnati.

Graeter’s Ice Cream

After the game, I decided that some ice cream was in order. It was a summer-like Friday night and my birthday after all. You can’t go without ice cream on your birthday! Thanks to my friend Wilson I knew where to go - Graeter’s Ice Cream. (Of course, without Wilson, I likely would have figured it out as Graeter’s has locations peppered throughout the city). Graeter’s has been making ice cream in Cincinnati for nearly as long as the Reds have been playing basebal. It is not just the longevity that makes this Cincinnati favorite so special. More so, it is the longevity of their process. Graeter’s refers to their handcrafted ice cream as “French Pot Ice Cream” due to the unique French Pot process that has been passed on for generations.

Without getting into too many specifics, though you can learn more HERE, Graeter’s devotion to the French Pot style results in a thick, creamy, rich ice cream that actually reminded me more of the finest gelatos in Italy. My first cone of the weekend (but far from my last) was a double scoop of Brown Butter Bourbon and Salted Caramel Chocolate Chip. Both flavors were incredible. I loved the zing of the bourbon and the brown butter flavor with crunchy soft pecans littered throughout and the salted caramel was impeccable. What anyone notices about this ice cream on the first bite, or lick, is the density of the cream and the way it just melts in your mouth. This is some of the finest ice cream I have ever had. Learning recently that Graeter’s is distributed nationally in grocery stores, I cannot wait to find a pint!

DD’s Pro Tip: The flavor that Graeter’s is most famous for is the Black Raspberry Chocolate Chip. While raspberry is not my thing, the chocolate chips are special and any flavor with chocolate chip is a must order. These morsels of chocolate are more like chunks than chips. Most notable is the incredible softness and decadent flavor of these dark chocolate morsels. The way these gourmet chocolate chunks dissolve with each bite/lick is so effortless and wonderful. Even if you don’t go for the signature flavor, do not go to Graeter’s without trying some variety of chocolate chip!

Day 2 - Saturday

Passenger pigeons were once the dominant species in North America but are sadly now extinct. Martha, the last known of the species passed away at the Cincinnati Zoo in 1914 at the age of 29. Designed by John A. Ruthven, Martha, the Last Passenger Pigeon at the intersection of 8th & Vine in downtown Cincinnati was commissioned to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Martha’s passing and to warn future generations about the dangers of extinction. — Passenger pigeons were once the dominant species in North America but are sadly now extinct. Martha, the last known of the species passed away at the Cincinnati Zoo in 1914 at the age of 29. Designed by John A. Ruthven, *Martha, the Last Passenger Pigeon* at the intersection of 8th & Vine in downtown Cincinnati was commissioned to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Martha’s passing and to warn future generations about the dangers of extinction.

I had opted to stay downtown near the Over-The-Rhine (OTR) neighborhood. While I had a full Saturday planned, that definitely included exploring Over-The-Rhine, the first thing on my mind was breakfast and thanks to recommendation, I already knew where I was going. It was a beautiful Saturday morning for a walk with my breakfast destination only eight blocks away. My first stop was only a block from my hotel at Martha, the Last Passenger Pigeon, a very well-known mural in Cincinnati. As I approached Over-The-Rhine, it was not just Martha but a number of murals that drew me in as I walked down Vine Street towards my breakfast stop.

Holtman’s Donuts

“They are the best donuts in Cincinnati. They couldn’t say it if it wasn’t true!”, Wilson told me when he recommended that I check out Holtman’s Donuts.

A flavor of donut I had never tried before, this Crème Brûlée donut from Holtman’s is probably the best donut I have ever had.

My first impression was that I loved how small and intimate the donut shop was. This clearly was a place that the majority of people grab their donuts and get out. For me, there was a bar rail against the window on Vine Street, and I planned to do some people watching on this bustling Saturday morning in OTR. The gentleman behind the counter (I really wish I had gotten his name because his customer service was exemplary) saw my Charlie Hustle facemask and immediately started chatting to me about Kansas City as he had a lot of family in Springfield, Missouri. While I was drawn to some of my familiar favorites like the Red Velvet and Sour Cream donut, he really impressed upon me the need to try the Crème Brûlée as it was his favorite donut he’s ever had. I also decided to try the Maple Bacon.

Wilson undersold me on the greatness of these donuts. Having visited many of the so-called best donut shops in places like Portland (OR), New York, Boston, Philly, and others, I am willing to declare Holtman’s the best donuts in Cincinnati because these are the best yeast donuts I have ever had in any city in America!

The Crème Brûlée was a revelation! The first sensation, the crunch of the caramelized sugar outer shell is so unbelievably satisfying without being overpowering. The custard within is thick and creamy so it does not make a mess and it is sweet without being too rich. The textures and flavors danced across my taste buds in perfect harmony.

“These are the best yeast donuts I have ever had in any city in America!”

The Maple Bacon donut is so exquisite. One deviation, that may seem minor, is that Holtman’s opts for bacon crumbles over strips. This allows for a soft, seamless bite with each one containing bacon. Many times there is a conflict between the bite of a donut and the bacon strip on top (much like an onion ring that is all breading after the first bite). The crumbles were chewy and smoky. The maple is pervasive but perfectly balanced with the bacon. What made both of these donuts (and the ones I would eat the following day) so special is the yeast donut base. Pillowy yet doughy, chewy yet soft, these donuts alone would be enough reason for me to return to Cincinnati.

DD’s Pro Tip: Arrive early! Especially on the weekends! Holtman’s is only open until sell-out. When I returned on Sunday before, there were only about a dozen donuts remaining. They ended up closing about two hours early while I was there.

Findlay Market

With a belly full of donuts, I immediately sought to burn them off by walking another half mile to my ultimate destination - the Findlay Market. Named by Newsweek as one of the Top 10 Food Markets in the world in 2019, Findlay Market welcomes over 1,000,000 visitors each year. It was very clear that on a Saturday morning this was the place to be as Findlay’s market house was jam-packed with patrons and the surrounding streets were just as bustling. The air was thick with a cacophony of different scents and flavors that had me constantly turning my head. With over 50 vendors selling everything from street food to flowers to fresh produce to meats, cheeses, and seafood, there is something for everyone at the Findlay Market. While my senses were overwhelmed with all the appetizing sights, sizzling sounds, and mouthwatering aromas, I was still too full from my two donuts at Holtman’s to sample any of Findlay’s fares. After ninety minutes of exploring everything Findlay had to offer, I took advantage of Cincinnati’s free streetcar and made my way towards the riverfront.

National Underground Railroad Freedom Center

As someone who loves American history, it never occurred to me how pivotal Cincinnati, Ohio was to the abolitionist movement and the Underground Railroad. With the Ohio River being the physical embodiment of the Mason-Dixon Line and Cincinnati being just over the river from slave state Kentucky, it only makes sense that several black men and women who sought freedom would make their way to Cincinnati as they moved further north and even into Canada. With a collection of eye-opening exhibits, incredible artifacts, and well-constructed films for their theaters, the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center was an incredible experience for me. As I worked my way from the top floor down, I was faced with the history of slavery in the United States, the fight to end slavery, the continued century-long battle to realize equality for all, and then the ways in which modern day slavery still, sadly, exists today around the world.

In every hallway, the large floor-to-ceiling glass windows face the treacherous Ohio River that meant freedom, or death for so many. This constant reminder of where I was standing allowed every exhibit to really hit close to home. I could see the banks of Kentucky where slavery was once legal from within the museum.

There were two exhibits that were especially harrowing. One was a room with the appearance of being underwater with a lone glass pillar in the middle of the room filled with marbles. Each marble represents an African whose life was lost at sea aboard slave trade ships en route to the New World. Many were those who chose to jump into an open sea rather than being enslaved. On the sides of the walls, carved in stone, are the names of actual slave ships, as a memorial to those lost at sea. As I stood in this eerie room with the waves overhead, all I could hear in my mind was Michael B. Jordan saying,

“Bury me in the ocean with my ancestors who jumped from the ships, because they knew death was better than bondage.”

— Killmonger, "Black Panther"

The other exhibit is located in the second floor atrium and appears to be an almost windowless log cabin. It is in fact an actual slave pen that was transported to the museum from a tobacco plantation in Mason County, Kentucky. The only known surviving slave jail, this pen was once used to house dozens and dozens of enslaved people at any given time for weeks, or even months, as they awaited favorable market conditions. A physical reminder of a domestic slave trade that ripped children away from their parents; realizing the inhumanity and brutality of this pen is an eerie experience.

To me, this museum is a must-visit for every America. The National Underground Railroad Freedom Center does an excellent job of heightening our social consciousness. Not only do they educate people on the history of slavery and the Underground Railroad, but the museum reminds us all how far we still have to go as a society.

This room at the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center has the appearance of being underwater. Every marble in the pillar (right) represents an African who was lost at sea due to the Transatlantic Slave Trade. Carved into the stone walls are the names of the ships of slave merchants (left).

John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge

Those who know me best, know that when I travel I am usually drawn to two things (besides sporting events) - cool bridges and cool churches. I have always been especially drawn to bridges. Metaphorically I like the idea of anything that connects people to one another but in reality, the architecture of a lot of older bridges is simply breathtaking. The John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge that spans the Ohio River from Cincinnati, Ohio to Covington, Kentucky is about as beautiful as bridges get.

Opened in 1866 as the Cincinnati-Covington Bridge, the Roebling Bridge was the longest suspension bridge in the world at the time of it’s opening. If you look at this bridge and think, “that reminds me of the Brooklyn Bridge”, you’re only halfway right. Nearly twenty years later, Roebling would go on to design the Brooklyn Bridge, basing the design largely on elements of his bridge in Ohio. In other words, the Brooklyn Bridge should remind you of the Roebling Bridge. For me, the sky blue joists reminded me of Tower Bridge in London. However, both Brooklyn Bridge and the Roebling Bridge predate that internationally renowned beauty. In other words, Tower Bridge’s blue should also remind you of Roebling.

Given its place in architectural history, it is mind blowing that the Roebling Bridge is rarely included in the conversation with the likes of the Golden Gate Bridge and Brooklyn Bridge, but when you realize it’s in a small Midwestern city, it becomes apparent as to why that is. While the roadways on the Roebling are currently under renovation, I was fortunately still able to traverse the foot/bike paths on the bridge and make my way across the river into Kentucky.

Skyline Chili

When I first planned my trip to Cincinnati, going to a Reds game was the reason but seeing what all the Skyline Chili hype was about was definitely a close second! For years I had heard about the local delicacy served on spaghetti noodles. Since all the ingredients are largely ready-serve and in the eye of the diner and there are locations all across the city, it would be easy to mistake Skyline Chili for fast food. However, it was made abundantly clear that this was not fast food, it was quality food served fast.

Contrary to other variations of chili, the preferred way to serve the Cincinnati style is on a bed of spaghetti noodles.

After nearly 10 hours of making my way around the city, that pair of donuts from Holtman’s were long in the rearview mirror and I was hungry. I ordered a pair of coney dogs with all the fixins - cheddar cheese, onions, mustard, and chili - as well as a 4-Way. Unlike the Tex-Mex chili which is often served in a bowl (although you can definitely get Skyline this way as well), the preferred way to enjoy Cincinnati style chili is on a bed of spaghetti noodles. Patrons can order theirs as a 3-Way (noodles, chili, and cheese), a 4-Way (noodles, chili, cheese, and onions OR beans), or a 5-Way (noodles, chili, cheese, onions, and beans). I chose to forego the beans.

When I received my coneys, I thought about Detroit - a city famous for their coney dogs. However on first bite there is a drastic difference between what Cincy has to offer and what Detroit does. In Detroit, it is the hot dog link that makes the coney dog so special. In Cincinnati, the hot dog itself is not anything remarkable but everything else is. The bun is steamed and pillowy soft. The chopped onions and yellow mustard give it the right amount of zing. And the shredded cheddar? How can a mere mortal hope to describe the heaping mounds of lactose-infused angels’ hair that smothers every dish at Skyline?

As for the signature chili? It is unlike any that I have ever tasted. First of all, there is a matter of texture. It is not reminiscent of a soup or stew. If anything, I would call this a paste. It is a slurry of meat, tomato, herbs, and spices. There is a sweet tinge on the front end of each bite that causes me to think that cinnamon, or perhaps cloves, are among the secret spice blend. The chili is not hot. There is no kick or spice. I would not even call the profile warm, but it is well-seasoned with a flavor that stays with you. In spite of a lack of zing, it is altogether wonderful.

As for the chili on spaghetti noodles? I loved it! Many overload their chili with crackers and I am a Fritos guy through and through, so why not have noodles as the conduit? Chili? Good. Cheese? GOOD. Noodles? GOOD! Joey Tribbiani would approve of this logic. While I do not know if Skyline Chili is something I will ever crave, I do know that is a meal I will never pass on when in a city that has this Cincy delicacy.

DD’s Pro Tip: The hot sauce is absolute fire, literally and figuratively. One of my biggest regrets of this trip is not bringing a bottle back with me. The sauce has such a nice burn and gum-tingling spice that brings all the heat that the chili may lack. For a special treat, lift the shredded cheese on your coneys, top with hot sauce, and then re-apply the cheese. The sauce will give you a wonderful kick and the cheese will help to pacify some of the spice while giving your taste buds all of the flavor.

Day 3 - Sunday

When I awoke on my final day, I had two primary goals - to visit the American Sign Museum and to visit some of Cincinnati’s local breweries. But first, donuts! You had to believe that I was making a return trip to Holtman’s Donuts (this time due to limited options, I opted for a Vanilla Sprinkle and another Maple Bacon). And with Graeter’s across the street, of course I was going to have another helping of French Pot ice cream on my final day. With an absolutely sugar-loaded breakfast out of the way, I was ready to visit my next museum.

The American Sign Museum

As a person who has always appreciated advertising, the American Sign Museum was a place I had to see. The American Sign Museum preserves and displays a collection of signs throughout American history. In doing so, this museum helps explain the history of signs, different types of signs, and the evolution of signage. Signs on display range from the trade signs of the 1800s to the bright neon of the late 1970s. While the clashing neon, and argon, lights are enough to capture the eye, what makes this such a great museum is the accompanying audio tour.

If you have a chance to visit this museum, be sure to bring headphones!

The American Sign Museum offers a very detailed audio tour that can easily be accessed on any smartphone. The tour allows you to take the museum at your own pace while providing necessary context and information as you explore the different rooms which feature different eras of sign-making. If you forget the headphones, reading the copy on the online tour is always an options but the audio tour is so well done it would be a shame to miss it. While there are a number of signs that span different eras, the highlight is definitely “Signville” (pictured above) which includes a large Howard Johnson’s sign and a McDonald’s sign from Huntsville, Alabama that features the fast food chain’s original mascot - Speedee.

Taft’s Ale House

After visiting the American Sign Museum, I was ready for a drink. To say that Cincinnati is a great beer town would be an understatement. Every fall, this city with Bavarian roots hosts the largest Oktoberfest celebration in the United States. I had some fantastic brews at Rhinegeist Brewing and BrewDog while in Cincinnati but it was my final brewery stop, Taft’s Ale House, that I could not wait to write about.

Even though I was directly across the street, it took me nearly five minutes to “find” Taft’s Ale House because the building was not what I expected.

To be honest, when I first arrived at Taft’s Ale House, I had trouble finding the place. Every local I had encountered had recommended Taft’s and according to my GPS, I was right by the brewery but could not seem to find it. While incredibly large, I initially missed the brewery because, well it was not what I expected. It was inside of a converted church.

When I realized the large church staring me in the face was indeed the brewery I sought out, I opened the doors and climbed the stairs to the “sanctuary”. And what a sanctuary it was! Pews were replaced with beer hall tables. The pulpit had been supplanted by a bar. And the wall that would typically be dominated by the lead pipes of an organ, were instead dominated by the stainless steel of fermenting tanks. In the balconies above, more drinking and dining space with a second bar.

The space would have been wow factor enough for me given its uniqueness but then there were the deliberate touches that paid homage to the President from Cincy.

Famously, as our nation’s largest President, William Howard Taft had the bathtubs in the White House replaced for something befitting of a man of his stature. Reasonably, the Taft’s logo is of the President having a beer whilst taking a bath. After his time in the Oval Office was over, President Taft is famously the only POTUS to ever sit on the Supreme Court, spending nearly a decade as Chief Justice. It only stands to reason that all the tap handles at Taft’s Ale House would be wooden gavels.

And then of course there are the beers! Such a great variety with fantastic profiles. I tried a variety of hefeweizens, lagers, porters, and IPAs (yes, I actually sampled IPAs) but my favorite, and the most unique, was Nellie’s Key Lime Caribbean Ale.

Named for First Lady Helen Taft, commonly known as Nellie, this wheat beer with a lime flavor balanced the heartiness of an American wheat with the tanginess of lime to create beer that was not too tart and was quite refreshing. Purveyors of all beer styles, Taft’s Ale House is a destination for beer lovers of all varieties.

Tom & Chee

After a day of trying local brews, I was once again hungry. Don’t ask me how! I feel like all I did was eat that weekend but sure enough, I was ready for a meal. I decided to double-dip on Man vs. Food restaurants and pay a visit to Tom & Chee. I love grilled cheeses and melts. Hot sandwiches may honestly be my favorite food in the world (if you didn’t get that from the griddled Reuben recommendation). Thanks to appearances on shows like Man vs. Food and Shark Tank, Tom & Chee has grown into an ever-expanding national chain but it actually started as a pop-up tent on Cincinnati’s Fountain Square. Eventually this evolved into permanent locations through Cincy and across the United States.

Tom & Chee specializes in unique takes on the classic grilled cheese sandwich. Conceived as a grilled cheese and tomato soup operation, that’s where the Tom(ato) & Chee(se) name comes from. I had a hard time deciding what I wanted to order until the gentleman at the counter informed me that I could actually order a half and half and get a half sandwich of two different varieties! I knew I had to get the Grilled Mac & Chee (Mild Cheddar, Mozarella Cheese, Homemade Mac & Cheese, and Applewood Smoked Bacon on Hearty White Bread). As someone who had never had goetta, I also opted for the Westsider (Pepperjack Cheese, Bacon, Fried Egg, Goetta, and Hot Sauce on Hearty White Bread).

First of all, the Hearty White lives up to its name. It has a density, texture, and nice grain flavor that is richer than any white bread I can recall. When grilled, it is so buttery and delicious! On the Grilled Mac & Chee, the 5-Cheese Macaroni and Cheese is so delectable. It has the best homemade flavor with a hint of smokiness. Combined with the Applewood Smoked Bacon, this is the ultimate comfort food in sandwich form.

The Westsider was on the other end of the spectrum. Dare I say it, this was one sassy sandwich! Goetta is a mash of pork sausage and oats. The texture reminded me of scrapple but the flavor was closest to a nice chorizo. It definitely had some bite with the hot sauce and smacked me with that gum tingling spice I love. Interestingly enough, the creamy pepperjack actually balanced out some of that spice and with the fried egg, it just worked. Both were incredible sandwiches.

What made Tom & Chee so famous though is the Grilled Cheese Donut (yes, I know, I ate a lot of donuts on this trip but notably, have not touched one since getting back). I had to order one! Tom & Chee halves a glazed donut and sandwiches it together with cheddar cheese putting the glazed side in and buttering the new exterior. The result has a nice outer crunch but still doughy within. The glaze melts into a brown sugar nectar that when blended with the gooey cheddar is a conduit to culinary nirvana.

While I did mention that Tom & Chee is a national chain and I would eat here regularly if I could - don’t get too excited. The closest location to grab your own elevated grilled cheese is 291 miles away in Oklahoma City.

DD’s Pro Tip: Try different variations by ordering your sandwich half and half as I did. Also, do not sleep on the Grilled Cheese Donut!

While it is not a chain that is slowly making its way across the country, Tom + Chee began in a tent on Cincinnati’s Fountain Square.

When I boarded the plane on Monday morning after an action-packed three day weekend in Cincinnati, only one question was on my mind, “Why is nobody talking about Cincinnati?!”

Every year it feels like there is some new small market city in the Midwest or South that receives long overdue national, and even international, buzz. From about 2012 - 2015, Kansas City was definitely one of those places! However, aside from those from Cincy, I feel like I have never heard the fanfare about Cincinnati. The Queen City is an unheralded gem!

“Why is nobody talking about Cincinnati?!”

The downtown is walkable. The architecture and murals are beautiful. The city is easy to navigate. It’s a fantastic foodie destination and with their Bavarian traditions, a great place for beer lovers as well! It is affordable. Like Kansas City, they have a free streetcar. However, in Cincinnati’s case, every single place I wanted to visit (with the exception of the American Sign Museum) was on the streetcar loop!

As much as I love my city, I will admit that I was jealous of how compact Cincinnati is and how centrally located the majority of points of interest, restaurants, and entertainment venues were. I cannot help but marvel at the majestic Roebling Bridge and the developed Ohio River front. Much like Kansas City, this is a fantastic sports town to boot.

I felt like I toured the Queen City at a breakneck speed and still, I would have loved another day to explore. I would have welcomed the chance to sample other Cincinnati chili parlors (such as Camp Washington), to walk the campuses of the University of Cincinnati or Xavier University, or just to dive into more of their fantastic breweries. I did not even get the chance to visit the renowned Cincinnati Zoo which is frequently considered among the best zoos in the United States!

And if we’re being really honest, with another day in Cincinnati? I would have visited Holtman’s Donuts once again! Surely the streets of heaven are lined with crème brûlée crullers.

[INSERT PAUSE FOR HOMER SIMPSON DROOLING EFFECT]

I would have loved to have another day but now I have a reason to return. Perhaps a University of Cincinnati Bearcats game or an FC Cincinnati match is in my future.

If my love affair with Kansas City has taught me anything, it is that there are so many unheralded cities that are amazing once you get the chance to explore them. While I may have never heard the buzz about Cincinnati prior, I will be singing the Queen City’s praises going forward.

So be careful not to sleep on middle America and let the likes of KC and Cincinnati always remind you that -

FLYOVER COUNTRY IS A MYTH.

Have you visited Cincinnati? What was your experience? What places did I miss? Let me hear it in the comments below!

Sing The Queen City